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Oil Filers

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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 10:38 PM
  #21  
HyundaiKitCoupe's Avatar
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i'd like to use K&N. the pros recommend it highly.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 10:42 PM
  #22  
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Where can you get the K&N ones locally?
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 10:45 PM
  #23  
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QUOTE (REDZMAN @ Mar 15 2007, 04:15 AM)
I'll check out the Hyundai ones next time. I've used Fram's for all of my cars, and all of them have run just fine forever. My Excel, 1993 Excel that is, died with 186,000 miles on it, using Fram's the entire time.

Now that I push my Tib so hard, I want to try some new stuff, and I will, to see what I like the best, but in the meantime, the Fram Toughguard work fine.



I've seen test on Fram Toughguard's quality on the internet. The test claimed that Toughguard's filter media is high quality; but its oil flow is very restricted.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:27 PM
  #24  
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K&N Gold filter #HP-1004 should only be $10
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 12:30 AM
  #25  
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AutoZone sells

Valucraft - V2808 $2.29
STP - S2808A $3.19
ACDelco - PF1127 $3.49
Fram - PH3694A $3.69
Bosch - 3312 $5.99
Fram TG - TG3593A $6.49
Mobil - M104 $10.99
K&N - HP1004 $10.99
Fram XG- XG3593A $20.99


Every Autozone carries Valucrap, stp, fram (tough guard and regular), bosch, mobil, and k&n for our cars. The fram Xtra Guard, and delco usually have to be ordered I believe.

/AutoZone-r
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 01:07 AM
  #26  
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I use the Mobile 1 filter with Mobile 1 synthetic oil and change it every 4,000 miles, I know I could go longer but it seems to keep things nice and clean and running well, I dropped my oil pan and removed the valve cover and there are no signs of any sludge. Ive been pushing 15psi into it for the past 50,000 miles and drove the car for a few trips between NY and GA and have never lost a drop of oil between changes.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 02:00 AM
  #27  
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You guys should do some research into motor oils. You guys are all worried about how clean your oil stays based on its color, which isn't correct. I don't have the time right now to explain, but google it or something. Even 1 day after you put oil in a brand new motor, it will get much darker. Doesn't mean its not clean.

Oh hell, heres some basic facts

From Quaker States Website:

Myth #2

If the oil turns dark or black quickly, it's no good.
You can tell the condition of oil by the look, smell or color of it.
Dirty (black) motor oil means the oil is breaking down.

Fact
A common misconception is that high quality motor oil should come out of an engine looking clean at the time of an oil change. Nothing could be further from the truth. If the oil is doing its job of cleaning the engine, then it should be dirty when it is drained. Quaker State® motor oil will start looking dirty a short time after it is put to use. In the case of diesel engines, the oil will look dirty within a few hours of operation. These are signs that the motor oil is doing its job of keeping soot, dirt, and other combustion contaminants in suspension to be carried to the filter or removed from the crankcase when the oil is changed. Quaker State® motor oils have been formulated to hold these contaminants in suspension until they can be removed with an oil and filter change.

From the Amsoil Website:

AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants are designed and engineered for extended drain interval service. The color the AMSOIL on your dipstick (or ANY oil for that matter) has absolutely no bearing on whether or not the oil is suitable for continued use or if it should be drained and replaced. Use the recommended change intervals for both the oil and engine oil filters as specified by AMSOIL.

It is a common misconception that an oil's color is an indication of how dirty it is. This is absolutely NOT TRUE. The color of an oil does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability. Most oil and especially diesel engine oil will turn black in the first few hours of operation due to contaminates generated by the combustion process and soot particles. The ONLY way to accurately determine an oil's lubricating value or contamination level is through (spectrographic) oil analysis. Oil analysis is common practice used regularly in commercial, industrial and fleet operations and can also be used for passenger cars, light trucks or any other application. In addition oil analysis will also determine the exact pars per million (ppm) of wear metals in your oil which provides an indication of any abnormal wear or specific components that need mechanical inspection in addition to checking for any fuel, water or glycol contamination. *At the end of this section you will find a listing of what oil analysis testing checks for.

_________________
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 04:59 AM
  #28  
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thats all true to a point, but also remember that if you use a high grade filter (K&N) your oil in a gas powered car is stay clear much longer because the filter is doing its job of taking out the suspended particles instead of the oil holding them til the next change.

I have over 100k on my car and the oil looks like it right out of the bottle until about 3k then it takes til 5-6k to get black.

However, i change my oil every 3k just to play it safe and keep and fresh filter on there. (even with the oil being clear, the filter is very dirty and almost needs replacement before the oil gets pitch black).

So basically, if your oil stays clearer longer and you inspect your filter element. its a test of how good your filter is, not your oil
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