kind of have same problem over here ..... brand new Exedy oem replacement clutch with a Gripfroce Cromoly Ebay 10lbs flywheel and

when it got load on it let's say like 3-4-5 gear in upper rpm 4000rpm and more when i snap the Gaz pedal the rpm is boncing ? ..... and i'm thinking flywheel surface is bad not evan ? is it possible ??

and for the master slave cylinder how do you know it's broken ? is there anyway to test it ? when i removed it.... i played with it and felt is was grabbing kind of :S would it mean i need to change it ?

 

open up the hardline before the rubber (or bse clutch line) and look for pitch black clutch fluid.

i recently adjusted my pedal to spec and shortly after is when i noticed the fluid drip. it's hard to tell what the fluid tastes like cause i mixed it w/ vodka, so i'll get back to you on that.

 

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BTW, I have a fidanza flywheel that I used for 15k on an ebay 6 puck clutch. Just recently I swapped the trans and put a stock clutch and pressure plate in there. It holds fine and I have 160whp.

 

yup it's definately the clutch master cylinder!

i've ordered a "clutch master cylinder rebuild kit" from the dealer- $45

being as how my clutch fluid is bright black-... i'd assume that the rubber bushings or o-rings have detiorated. hence why bought the rebuild kit instead of a whole new master (not to mention i couldn't locate one in any of the local junkers).

 

ok so the clutch master cylinder rebuild kit was an awesome buy for me!

it came with the pedal adjuster and the spring/bushing apparatus on the inside of the master cylinder. all of which were broken on my car (bushing was uncrimped in adjuster in one spot causeing it to cock sideways bending the adjuster bolt, and the head of the rod on the inside of the master cyl came out of it's houseing).

taking everything apart was the biggest ordeal-... the master cylinder is tucked in there nice and tight. i had to use like a 1' extension to get it away from the firewall comfortably +/-. you have to undo the adjuster on the pedal via cotter pin. the hardline coming from the master cyl was only taken off from the end that goes into the slave (rubber hose). i then had to fineggle it out of there. once it's out, you have to take off the rubber boot and undo a super tight snap ring. pull out the internal and drop the new one in (just as the old one came out).reconnect, bleed, and enjoy!

it's been in for about 2 weeks-....i need to adjust it a lil cause 5th sometimes grinds when i go to put it in at a decent speed. i defiantely noticed a difference right away. but now that it's been in awhile, i still feel like the car is lacking the performance it should have (no really something is wrong-... it's not that i'm dis-satisfied). i know the cam-positioning sensor is bad which might be altering signal to injectors. i also need to fix an exhaust leak-... and maybe then the cel for the o2 sensor will go away. the only other thing i can think of would be bad cyl rings-... i'll have to do a compression test.

 

With all those CELs your car is probly in limp mode.