New Clutch Is Slipping
#1
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my old clutch was slipping so i bought a new OEM clutch from gripforce on ebay. i was short on money so i just bought the OEM to save a buck, plus from what i've read they can hold close to 200hp. i then fell into a bit more money a day or 2 later and bought the findanza flywheel. when they both came in i installed them as per the write up on elantraxd.com (pics didn't work on this site). for the most part everything went smoothly. i also torqued everything down to spec.
for the break-in period i was shifting between 3,000 and 3,500 rpms for 500 miles. thought i felt an occasional slip here and there but didn't think much of it. i am now at 800 miles on that clutch, and if i step into it (not quite "pedal to the metal" but stepping on it) i can definately feel it slip!
is it possible that the OEM clutch will not hold the findanza flywheel?
one thing i didn't even think of was to wipe the flywheel down w/ brake cleaner (stupid)-... is it possible the clutch just hasn't gotten through a protective coating?
my rd2 is an 00' 136,000 miles with I/H/E and the findanza flywheel.
has anyone else had this problem?
can anyone help at all?
thanks in advance!
for the break-in period i was shifting between 3,000 and 3,500 rpms for 500 miles. thought i felt an occasional slip here and there but didn't think much of it. i am now at 800 miles on that clutch, and if i step into it (not quite "pedal to the metal" but stepping on it) i can definately feel it slip!
is it possible that the OEM clutch will not hold the findanza flywheel?
one thing i didn't even think of was to wipe the flywheel down w/ brake cleaner (stupid)-... is it possible the clutch just hasn't gotten through a protective coating?
my rd2 is an 00' 136,000 miles with I/H/E and the findanza flywheel.
has anyone else had this problem?
can anyone help at all?
thanks in advance!
#2
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update! i re-bleed my clutch and the slipping is no more-.... or not yet!
lesson learned: re-bleed the clutch till it feels right. and knowing is 1/2 the battle!!!!
lesson learned: re-bleed the clutch till it feels right. and knowing is 1/2 the battle!!!!
#3
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sorry for the 1, 2, triple post, but i am absolutely sure i've got one heck of a clutch problem.
it seems that every time i bleed my clutch about 2-3 weeks later (depending on how much enthusiastic driving takes place) the clutch begins to slip again in the higher rpm range-... as discussed in the first post.
since then i've bought and installed a slave cyl (30,000 miles from socks) and a new clutch line from BSE. i have completed the slave cyl mod (the clutch fluid restriction mod), but i highly doubt it has anything to do with my problem. i have also installed all 3 of the obx pulleys and the 1.8 cam. this is all in addition to the I/H/E that i mentioned in the first post.
i've been using DOT 3 for my clutch fluid. the fluid in the reservior is nearly crystal clear, but when i bleed the slave, the fluid is a dark grey (almost black). i thought it was because the rubber hose between the reservior and the clutch master cylinder was going bad, but i checked it and it looked fine.
so now, i'm kinda stuck-... did i get a crappy slave cyl?
is my clutch master cyl not working properly?
can the SECO (OEM replacement) clutch just not hold the whole 120 hp (guesstimation to the wheels)?
could it just be a pedal adjustment?
is there a huge phantom air bubble in my lines that only comes around every so often?
it seems that every time i bleed my clutch about 2-3 weeks later (depending on how much enthusiastic driving takes place) the clutch begins to slip again in the higher rpm range-... as discussed in the first post.
since then i've bought and installed a slave cyl (30,000 miles from socks) and a new clutch line from BSE. i have completed the slave cyl mod (the clutch fluid restriction mod), but i highly doubt it has anything to do with my problem. i have also installed all 3 of the obx pulleys and the 1.8 cam. this is all in addition to the I/H/E that i mentioned in the first post.
i've been using DOT 3 for my clutch fluid. the fluid in the reservior is nearly crystal clear, but when i bleed the slave, the fluid is a dark grey (almost black). i thought it was because the rubber hose between the reservior and the clutch master cylinder was going bad, but i checked it and it looked fine.
so now, i'm kinda stuck-... did i get a crappy slave cyl?
is my clutch master cyl not working properly?
can the SECO (OEM replacement) clutch just not hold the whole 120 hp (guesstimation to the wheels)?
could it just be a pedal adjustment?
is there a huge phantom air bubble in my lines that only comes around every so often?
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ok... so let's break it down..
lets say you bled the clutch system just now, then you drove it like you stole it right after... would it slip; yes or no?
if yes, then you might need to replace the clutch..
if no.. now, lets say next week, you drove it hard like last time... would it slip this time? yes or no?
if yes, then there is something wrong with the hydraulic system... it could be a leak or something
lets say you bled the clutch system just now, then you drove it like you stole it right after... would it slip; yes or no?
if yes, then you might need to replace the clutch..
if no.. now, lets say next week, you drove it hard like last time... would it slip this time? yes or no?
if yes, then there is something wrong with the hydraulic system... it could be a leak or something
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well jay i did actually just bleed it and drove it like i stole it with out any problems-... and like every other time, some time within the next couple of weeks it will begin to slip.
i'm pretty sure it's a hydraulic issue, but where? not the stainless hard lines, not the BSE line, and not the reservior nor rubber hose. which leaves a slave cyl with 30k miles, a master cyl, and clutch pedal adjustment.
i think if it were the pedal it would do it all of the time and not just 2 weeks after i bleed it.
i'm pretty sure it's a hydraulic issue, but where? not the stainless hard lines, not the BSE line, and not the reservior nor rubber hose. which leaves a slave cyl with 30k miles, a master cyl, and clutch pedal adjustment.
i think if it were the pedal it would do it all of the time and not just 2 weeks after i bleed it.
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Vehicle: 2006 Pontiac GTO
Newbie question: Isn't the hydraulic system used to disengage the clutch? If there was a problem with that, wouldn't his problem be that it's not disengaging completely rather than slipping?
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Pressure might not be able to subside 100% after pushing the clutch, which would still be a hydraulic problem
#8
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actually while i was redoing my carpet while the site was down i found evidence-... a grease or goo dripping from my clutch pedal.
since i replaced the clucth, flywheel, slave, and clutch line-.... and inspected the resiviour and rubber tube-.... all that leaves is my master cyl.
which explains the dripping.
if anyone is making a junkyard run soon-... hit me up!
since i replaced the clucth, flywheel, slave, and clutch line-.... and inspected the resiviour and rubber tube-.... all that leaves is my master cyl.
which explains the dripping.
if anyone is making a junkyard run soon-... hit me up!
#9
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When does your clutch engage in relation to the floor?
Does this change over time as well?
Does the fluid leaking on your floor smell/taste like brake fluid?
Does this change over time as well?
Does the fluid leaking on your floor smell/taste like brake fluid?
#10
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i def think your pedal isnt adjusted right and i believe you are right bout the master problem. but once you replace that if it keeps doing it, the problem could be the screw on the adjustment under the pedal is not tight and is slowly screwing out so it wont completely release.