just finished engine swap
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Eau Claire, WI
Vehicle: 97 Tib
Yeah, I suppose if it was a ground that got connected to the positive there would be some noticeable electrical fires, haha. So I probably did everything right.......
I'll take some pics, check all the grounds again, but if I don't find anything..... what's my next step? Does anyone know where this fabulous spark troubleshooting chart is?
I am assuming that some of the sensors from this engine are rusted/bad or something. On the oil filter I found someone had written a date of November 2010. So the engine probably sat for at least 2 years on a shelf. Where/how should I begin checking? All of the wiring and sensors look visibly ok, and it seems like everything's connected fine..
I'll take some pics, check all the grounds again, but if I don't find anything..... what's my next step? Does anyone know where this fabulous spark troubleshooting chart is?
I am assuming that some of the sensors from this engine are rusted/bad or something. On the oil filter I found someone had written a date of November 2010. So the engine probably sat for at least 2 years on a shelf. Where/how should I begin checking? All of the wiring and sensors look visibly ok, and it seems like everything's connected fine..
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,155
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From: Eau Claire, WI
Vehicle: 97 Tib
Another problem.. Something feels off in the transmission. The clutch pedal is really easy. I figured I just needed to bleed the hydraulic fluid and make sure there was no air in the system. But after playing around with it, I discovered that on the side of the slave cylinder that goes into the tranny (that spring with the boot and the cotter pin), if you pull it, then it should snap back into place, right? Because mine just sits there..
What did I miss?
Man, I was so excited to get the tib running again. This sucks....
What did I miss?
Man, I was so excited to get the tib running again. This sucks....
you shouldnt have had to open up the clutch line for any reason when swapping the engine...shouldve just unbolted it and reinstalled
if you did, the thing is really easy to bleed, id bleed it just cuz it sat for a while.
if you step on the clutch does the lever move?(youll need 2 people obviously...)
id worry about getting it to idle before i worry about the clutch. most trans stuff is simple little fixes.
next questions. did you install new timing belt stuff while you had the motor out?
did you install your known working crank and cam sensor?
if you did, the thing is really easy to bleed, id bleed it just cuz it sat for a while.
if you step on the clutch does the lever move?(youll need 2 people obviously...)
id worry about getting it to idle before i worry about the clutch. most trans stuff is simple little fixes.
next questions. did you install new timing belt stuff while you had the motor out?
did you install your known working crank and cam sensor?
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,155
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From: Eau Claire, WI
Vehicle: 97 Tib
I installed all new belts, water pump, tensioner. I used all the sensors from the new engine because it was easier. I guess I never thought about them being bad.
I'll just start testing all the sensors, wiring, inspecting them and stuff... Which ones should I start with? What would most likely cause the buzzing/speedo/tach being off?
The lever does move with the pedal I'm pretty sure, I'll have to double check.
I'll just start testing all the sensors, wiring, inspecting them and stuff... Which ones should I start with? What would most likely cause the buzzing/speedo/tach being off?
The lever does move with the pedal I'm pretty sure, I'll have to double check.
I would swap all your old sensors back into the car. Do you have any reason to think that your old sensors are bad? At least you have experience with THOSE sensors. You have no idea if the sensors that came with your engine are new/old/ or completely bad sensors that the seller just "plugged" up some holes with. Use what you know should work.
I love repeating myself.....
I love repeating myself.....
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,795
Likes: 5
From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
Cranks but won't start is a classic crankshaft position sensor fault, I'd start by making sure the hole and sensor are clean, then try swapping the other sensor on your new engine.
Good luck I know this is the sucky part of DIY maintenance, just remember the car is a simple machine and HA is here to help.
Good luck I know this is the sucky part of DIY maintenance, just remember the car is a simple machine and HA is here to help.
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,155
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From: Eau Claire, WI
Vehicle: 97 Tib
Tested new engine's crank sensor... ~8.1kohms between pins 2-3, compared with about ~8.4kohms between pins 2-3 on the old engine's sensor. But that's OK, right? (I would just replace it anyway, but I'd have to remove the headers to do it - so I thought I'd double check first)
Tested new engine's cam sensor, got 0 resistance between all combinations of pins. So I wiped down the old engine's cam sensor and replaced it. Should I spray some carb cleaner or something in the hole to help clean it? Or just wipe down the inside with a rag? Should I do this for the crank sensor too?
Also replaced the ignition coil with the one from the old engine.
But I still have no spark.... Pretty much the only things that could be responsible for this is the cam sensor, crank sensor, ignition module, ignition coil.... right?
There's two sensors, both near the MAF, one is like a male plug with rubber boot that looks like it would go on the throttle body, and another is a 3 wire female connector with purple on the inside that is by the driver's strut mount - neither of these two sensors go anywhere, right?
And on the transmission... When you push the pedal it does move the lever, but the lever doesn't spring back into place.. The engine was from an automatic transmission vehicle, are there any issues with bolting up my 5 speed to it? I can't imagine what could have went wrong.... I know I'm jumping around with multiple issues here, but I'm just trying to get as much info as possible. I'm feeling pretty overwhelmed :-/
Thanks guys
Tested new engine's cam sensor, got 0 resistance between all combinations of pins. So I wiped down the old engine's cam sensor and replaced it. Should I spray some carb cleaner or something in the hole to help clean it? Or just wipe down the inside with a rag? Should I do this for the crank sensor too?
Also replaced the ignition coil with the one from the old engine.
But I still have no spark.... Pretty much the only things that could be responsible for this is the cam sensor, crank sensor, ignition module, ignition coil.... right?
There's two sensors, both near the MAF, one is like a male plug with rubber boot that looks like it would go on the throttle body, and another is a 3 wire female connector with purple on the inside that is by the driver's strut mount - neither of these two sensors go anywhere, right?
And on the transmission... When you push the pedal it does move the lever, but the lever doesn't spring back into place.. The engine was from an automatic transmission vehicle, are there any issues with bolting up my 5 speed to it? I can't imagine what could have went wrong.... I know I'm jumping around with multiple issues here, but I'm just trying to get as much info as possible. I'm feeling pretty overwhelmed :-/
Thanks guys
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,795
Likes: 5
From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
you did use a pressure plate/clutch/flywheel/bolts for a standard transmission right?
If the old engine died from mechanical failure, put ALL the sensors from it on the new engine.
A dirty or rusty crank sensor hole should be lightly brushed with a wire brush and/or wiped with a rag. If that hole is not cleaned good enough the sensor just won't work.
I want to say the tachometer signal is straight from the computer but IIRC the speedo is from the rotating connected at the top of the differential.
If the old engine died from mechanical failure, put ALL the sensors from it on the new engine.
A dirty or rusty crank sensor hole should be lightly brushed with a wire brush and/or wiped with a rag. If that hole is not cleaned good enough the sensor just won't work.
I want to say the tachometer signal is straight from the computer but IIRC the speedo is from the rotating connected at the top of the differential.


