well i got the timing set fine, car runs fine.

but i have another huge problem, with the tensioner pulley. It won't stay tight no matter how much i torque the bolt down..

Here's what happens, I'll have the timing belt on the cam and crank sprockets and around the idler pulley. when i go to screw the tensioner pulley in it tightens but when I torque the pulley toward the belt and tighten the bolt down even more it doesn't hold the torque. The belt just bounces back and the pulley roatates about it's inner bearing.

I've tried so many times the first few threads of the hole in the head (where the tensioner pulley bolt goes into) is starting to strip. so now the bolt is loose in the first few threads. I've got a tap 10.125 which is the right size and thread, and I've re-threaded the hole multiple times.

What am i doing wrong? Any ideas on why the tensioner pulley won't hold tension?

I've got a new tensioner pulley from kspec, and I've tried the old one as well. Both do the same. and I'm worried about the threads in that hole now..

yikes, any input?

 

tap and die from home depot maybe?

 

well it'd be a tap.. not a die. a die is used to rethread bolts and is staionary. A tap rotates and is used to rethread (or THREAD) newly drilled or stripped holes..

And, i already got a tap from a hardware store, hence mentioned above. The 10.125 size and the hole in the head has been re-threaded. My concern is that diameter of the hole (for the first few threads) got SO large (from stripping/rethreading, stripping/rethreading) that the bolt actually just slides in for the first few threads, THEN starts threading. I think a tap is useless now..

and I still have no way of keeping the tensioner pulley TIGHT agasint the timing belt. ARGH! Need help..

 

they usually come in a "tap and die" set

you can always make the hole bigger by using a bigger thread tap and get another bolt at the HW store. just use the corresponding die to make sure it's the same size.

 

okay dude you're not helping..

LOL, they are called tap and die "sets" because you can buy kits where you get the friggin taps and dies in a lil' toolbox to carry around..

It's just convienent to have both, because if you're dumb enough (i.e. me) to strip a hole you're probably dump enough to strip a bolt...

You can buy taps and dies individually from hardware stores..


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i was thinking about that, but that is a little dangerous. I don't want to try that until i KNOW I'm not missing something, or missing a step..
Or have a bad tensioner or something (well, two..)

That would involve lifting the head out of the car and re-DRILLING a hole in the head and then taping it with a slightly larger tap. Then I would have to shave the tensioner pulley hole to accomodate the larger bolt.

I barely have enough room to re-tap the hole with the side motor mount removed, I don't really feel like pulling the intake/exhaust manifolds and cyl head. plus what if I drill TOO FAR into the cyl head..

yikes..

 

did you try to make the hole bigger yet?

 

no, I'm wondering if that's my only solution..

 

that's how you do it. It's best to start with a hole, if space permits, drill it out first. just so big that you eliminate the origonal threads...

if not, then just make new threads.that does increase the chance of cross threading though, so be careful.

 

I've got no clue.

I'm afraid to do mine now. LOL.

 

I can't understand WHY the timing belt will not stay centered on the cam pulley..

this is the original reason why I changed the timing belt. Last time it was changed it slipped to the left and began rubbing on the timing belt cover (lower half) and even part of the motor mount. It was barely HALF a millimeter overhanging the cam pulley and ran fine for AGES...

But I wanted to fix it with a new timing belt that doesn't have a chewed up edge..

but I CAN'T get this one to stay centered on the cam pulley. the belt is directly centered on the crank pulley, directly centered on the idler pulley and camshaft pulley and lastly, it's directly centered on the tensioner pulley (just barely resting on the little lip the tensioner pulley has)..

But when I start the car and the belt starts to turn fast (or even when I hand crank it, ...if I do it enough) the belt slips to the left. Not OFF, just enough to scrape along the edge of the timing belt cover AND NO MORE... It just stays there it doesn't keep slipping..

But I can't figure out why!!!

I'm thinking there is supposed to be a spacer or something on one of the pulleys and since it's not there the belt is forced to slip over to the left.. AHH, i dunno.. I can't think of anything else. The tensioner is putting MAXIMUM tension on the belt, so not enough tension is NOT the problem..


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alright, here's another question. Webtech gives some WEIRD directions sometimes.. but this one, I DO NOT GET..

It states,


with this picture



NOTE: the block is to the right of this image and the bolt is shown inside the crankpulley
the crankshaft Sprocket Pulley is sorta not shown, but it should be directly to the right of the crank pulley.

WTF are those flanges? i don't see those anywhere on the pulley or when I was taking it off..
Maybe I'm not just understanding that picture but I think I mightbe MISSING something.

i don't think THIS could be the cause of the timing belt slipping to the left though? eh?

Thank you guys SO Much..

for all your help

This sucks, I am so stumped...

I hate being the guinea pig for problems. mad.gif