Trying again: the clutch operates with the pedal too far from the floor?

The clevis where the pedal attaches to the master cylinder is the adjustment point for that, if I recall correctly. I don't recall if you have to take the pin out and rotate the clevis, then put the clevis back on the pedal arm, or if there is a nut/jambnut combination in there.

 

There is nothing you can do, tib clutches just suck. Once the pedal starts moving the piston, it takes VERY little pedal movement until the clutch is disengaged completely. So the "sweet-spot" is in a very narrow range. No pedal adjustment can change this.

 

^ yea i understand that part but thats not the part i want to change:
here i'll make a "timeline" so-to-speak...




i want my pedal stroke to have more dsistance after it engages, but its curently at the max possible, because the pedal is not expanding to where it used to now, coz i had to push that bolt attachment lower, now the peda is trying to go as par as possible, but the cluthc line isnt alloing it to, it extended all the way, and not hittig the point it used to hit..
does this clarify? lol

 

Wow, free play should only be a tiny bit of the entire stroke, something is definitely weird there, maybe you need to bleed your clutch or something?

 

Mine is like that too. I've been hearing that its just the way it is but I was never sure. maybe I'll check tomorrow. I hate how much free play there is.

 

im kinda havin that problem too except its grinding going into sencond unless i let the RPMs go down;and to get 3rd gear to work i have to rev the engine to get it to stay in 3rd gear all the other gears are fine though.

 

Could you please review the technical terminology which you are using and then replay your question? Look up the terms pedal stroke, free play, engagement point, disengagement point, clutch slip, clutch shock, and hardstops. It is impossible to help when you are speaking another language or using improper terminology.

 

drewzer, if you have to hold a particular engine speed to keep the transmission in gear, something is Bad Wrong. It may just be an adjustment in the shifter, but it may be internal to the gearbox. The grinding into second may just be because you are running some janky gear oil in there. Replace the gear oil with GL4 spec. Redline MT-90 and see if it doesn't shift better.

If all the other gears engage/release alright then the clutch is probably functional.

 

^^ True, most mechanics use GL-5 which is designed for higher pressure situations. The GL-5 also eats brass synchros like we have. You need GL-4. I once had to go to 3 shops and 2 stores to find some GL4 for my transmission which was on a rack while I was on vacation.