Worst fear . . . when you go to turn on the lights in a dark room, something else already has its hand on the switch? oh wait that was Stephen King. Friend these cars are relatively simple. The worst part is finding parts where you are, and even that is possible.

 

Don't forget to check your primary resistances too. Measure the resistance AT THE WIRING CONNECTOR, it should be 0.87 ohms + or - 10%.

 

Hey hey,

I'll check the primary resistance What do you think of the results ? Should I go buy new ignition coils ?! It's really funny 2-3 are in that 15%, but 1-4 are just under it

I'm using liqui molly 10W40 oil and yesterday I bought their oil additive: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMJ1Fl1B77E

I did around 30 miles and there is no oil lost, but it was night time so I'm not sure if there is smoke... One thing I've noticed my hydraulic lifters were thicking a lot when I first started the car after the oil additive.

I'll check my plugs after some 50 miles more , cause I installed my cover. I don't why , but some of my wires were coming out, that's why I thought it's good idea to put my cover back

Here are some pics of my engine bay and my dirty PCV. By the way my my old PCV valve wasn't making any noises when shaken, but I can clearly hear the new one.











I'll let you know what is going on

 

PVC intake for the win

 

Not pretty , but doing great job As you know no parts for our cars where I live, so if you don't want to wait 10+ days shipping you have to improvise.

 

Look what I found: http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/coupe/ser...x.asp@id=12638

So which one is right for the primary resistance 0.87 as wheel_of_steel said or as it is written here 0.45-0.55 ?!?

For the secondary resistance I think I'm ok 10.3-13.9 and my results were around 11.50.

As for my tib burning oil, after I changed the PCV valve and clean all the dirt I did more than 60 miles ( city ) and there is no oil loss Hopefully it will stay that way, but I can't believe that this little bustard can do so much harm ?! Or could it be a result from the oil additive ? Also at first when I found out that I was burning oil , the hoses from PCV valve to the IM were disconnected ! How can I burn oil when the PCV valve is not connected to the IM ?

A lot of odd things around my tib

 

If you really want to know how much oil is going out your PCV, install a separator/catch can in line. Yes, I suppose you can lose an appreciable amount of oil through that little thing.

 

It's getting crazy these days...after all the things with my plugs and loosing oil, I had a problem installing my apexi neo ! My ECU is different from the one that was pictured in the DIY. It is with 3 raws and mine is with 2 ?!? You can see it :





I found some useful info and manage to install it , so it's working now.

When I thought everything is good, while driving I saw my temp gauge moving from normal to cold. It's crazy , cause if the car is on N it doesn't matter moving or stopped the needle is working ( showing normal temp ) and if I step on the gas it goes down ?!? When I'm in gear it stays down. If it's on N and I don't touch the gas pedal everything is ok. My coolant is to the max, no overheating ... When I was removing the cylinder head I broke some sensor wiring, the sensor is at the back, under the IM and it's wring is connected near the left side end of the fuel rail. As I remember I manage to reconnect it , but maybe it wasn't very stable !? Which one is that sensor ?

I had that problem with the temp gauge before the apexi install .

My car is going nuts !!!

 

If your thermostat is stuck open or broken/partially stuck open you might get excessive cooling. Increasing engine speed increases the volume of coolant flow by spinning the water pump faster. Thermostats are easy enough to test with a pot of water and a stove-top heater.

 

I also thought it might be the thermostat, but the needle is moving very fast. it's cheap thing so I'll change it today and see what happen