Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Help me read the plugs

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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 03:44 AM
  #21  
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Stocker my maan, bought new thermostat from hyundai and it's all good now

Went fot a drive last night after 300+ miles of driving like a granny because of the clutch break in period. I'm using dynolicious ( not that I believe it 100% ) when tested before I was 116whp ( with f*cked up clutch ) right after the head work. Last night very different story: first run was 112 and the car wasn't pulling. It was noticibly slow ! I drove with 100mph for a bit and made a second run...it was like driving another car !!! 172whp WTF ?!? There is huge peak at around 6000rpm on 3rd gear. It's like 30-40hp jump ! So I assume something was wrong and went for another run. This time 164whp again with peak at 6000rpm on 3rd. Went for another run, 166whp ! Guess what the peak is at the same time 6000rpm

There is not even a small chance that my car can make that power without the nitrous which was not used last night. So I thought let's check the times. Took 60-130kph so the start will not play a role:

when tested before the best result was : 60-130 : 9.42sec / last night 9.09 sec

The distance from 1/8 mile to 1/4 mile: before 5.78 sec / last night 5.64 sec

Today I will chech my fuel mixture with wideband and tune it with the apexi neo.

By the way plugs 1 and 4 still not looking good and lost a bit oil too. That checked before the last night run. I'll check everything again tonight after I tune it, but I think I'll try buy new spark plug wires !

Thank you again for willing to share your knowledge
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 09:26 PM
  #22  
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If you have oil fouling a spark plug and it runs much better after extended high RPM operation . . . you could have burned the plug clean with the hot/fast running, or whatever was leaking swelled with the heat and then you burned it clean. Running an engine at high speed every once in a while used to be regular maintenance when engines were much less clean-burning. Here's hoping the plug wires are your fix but . . . we'll see. It occurs to me to wonder about your recent head work. What was done? If the valve guides were replaced when the head was reworked that's great. If not, you could be leaking oil down on to the valve in the cylinder with a fouled plug.



It is possible that whatever was done to your head was better for operation at 6k RPM. This is not amazingly unusual. There is a small chance that it could make that power with a really lovely head job. A small chance! Now you need to learn to use that peak power to your advantage during your track days.
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 08:03 AM
  #23  
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Here are some graphs so you can see what I'm talking about:







Last night I used AEM wideband to check my A/F and as I thought it was PIG RICH... from 2000rpm to 4000rpm it was around 11.8. From 4000 to 5000 I was hitting 10s and from 5000 to red line 10.0 ?!? So started to tune it and found out that I have to subtract a lot more than I thought. In fact from 5900rpm to 6500rpm I can't correct it anymore simply because you can +/- up to 50 and it's -50 !!! The aim was to get 12.5 through the rpm and from 2000 to 5900 I manage to do it , but from 5900 - 6500 it's around 12. Changed the vacuum hose from IM to fuel regulator, but it didn't help much. I'm not sure what's going on, but maybe my fuel pump is too big for the stock regulator ?!? The pump is from Eclipse turbo...

I saw some people using Neo to tune their Tib to subtract not more than 18.

I have to say that I'm pretty happy with how the car performs. The biggest difference is at 4000rpm. It definitely pulls better.

After the tune, I checked plugs and found out that 1 is not black any more, but 4 is So it was time for compression test and ... surprise everything ok. All the same, even 4 is with 0.1bar higher

The problem is that after 4000rpm I can clearly see and smell burnt oil. Lost a lot just for the tune and now I'm thinking of removing the PCV hose just to eliminate it as suspect.

As for my head work, yep the valve guides are replaced. A friend of mine told me that maybe some valve rubber ring( I don't know the word ) is out ?!? Can I check that if I open the valve cover ?

Any advice what to check or do ?
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 01:59 PM
  #24  
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Some updates from today.

So today I flipped and went for a quick test drive to see the difference with the Neo and if there is any Again the first run was f*cked up with a lot of white smoke. With every run it was getting better and this was my best result:



I'm sure I can shave some time , cause I wasn't 100% from the start. 60ft - 2.77sec. This time I think the result is more realistic 125whp :biggrin:

The tib was running better than before so I was happy with the performance, but the oil consumption was scary. Went home , wait for the car to cool down and checked the plugs.



1cyl





2cyl





3cyl





4cyl





There is a huge difference on number 4 !!! It was all black before and even all the high rpm driving when I was tuning the apexi didn't help.



I guess I have to drive and see what happens
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