Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Fuel Filter Replacing. Trust Non-hyundai Dealer?

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Old May 19, 2006 | 05:04 PM
  #21  
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Jon, do a DIY for us PLEASE!
seriously, with how much of a PITA it is to change the fuel filter on our cars I really want to do what you did. Plus it looks cool in the bay cool.gif
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Old May 20, 2006 | 07:56 AM
  #22  
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If I were you guys, I would go with the inline filter because it's smaller. Since I'm loosing room on the firewall and didn't want to put it back down where the stock filter was, I had to unplug the brake fluid sensor to get it to fit there.
It would easily fit in the stoc location though. And an inline would fit just about anywhere.


I used a barb fitting on the filter's supply side. Then slid a fuel hose over that and the stock metal line. Then hose clamped it down.

The other side used 2 - 3/8" to -8 fittings. One on the rail, and one on the filter. Then screwed on a -8 hose.


It just depends on what you want to do with your fuel setups. Some people may not want to go with a braided hose to the rail.
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Old May 20, 2006 | 08:45 AM
  #23  
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Those inline ones look fine too, but barb fittings? Isn't that a little low quality for that kind of pressure?

Any other way to do it?
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Old May 20, 2006 | 01:51 PM
  #24  
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I've had mine like that for 4 years. Never had a problem. Even had 65-70psi of fuel pressure with boost, which is far more than you n/a guys will be running.
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Old May 20, 2006 | 02:59 PM
  #25  
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Can you get some pics of that other side? I'd like to see exactly how you have it hooked up.

So I can prep to do mine.

Thanks mang.
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Old May 21, 2006 | 12:43 AM
  #26  
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^^^ It's not that hard, you need 2 wrenches. One for the inlet/outlet barb and one for the hose.

the worst thing is, it is in a bad spot where you will drip gasoline on your clothes. It just kinda takes some working to get it out and the bottom one sux, you can only turn it 1/4 turn at a time. Other then that, the only pictures you could see is a wrench on the tube and a wrench on the filter.

Only thing is mounting a non-OEM fuel filter may be difficult.
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Old May 21, 2006 | 07:43 AM
  #27  
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What's even easier is using a metal hose cutter to just cut the fuel line below the nuts. lmao.gif
Then the whole assembley comes off completely and you don't have to get all pissed off trying to work down there.

I forgot what the upper hose assembly looks like to the rail since I changed mine. Is it a solid metal hose too?
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Old May 21, 2006 | 08:59 AM
  #28  
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yep.
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Old May 21, 2006 | 09:31 PM
  #29  
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My mechanic take it off and replace it for only $5.00....

The only problem of the filter is that damm screw location on the lower part of the filter....
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Old May 27, 2006 | 11:02 PM
  #30  
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OMG, the crap bolts Hyundai uses!

It took me about two hours to remove the old filter, and there is no easy way. I started by jacking up the car, A good hour was spent underneath trying to loosen it, but that just doesn't work. You can't get any leverage when you're on your back under the car.

So I removed most of my intake including the MAFS, and was finally able to loosen the bottom nut. I used a 14mm flare wrench, which made all the difference. I tried using a 19mm one as well, but that proved to be harder than with a plain non-flared one. It's much easier to hold the 14mm flare wrench in one spot, and only rotate the 19mm one. Also, I'm going to buy some of those "speed" wrenches that have a notch cut on one side, which let you use it like a socket wrench almost. That would definitely make things easier. My other idea was to get crows foot wrenches, two extensions of different lengths, say 10" and 12", and the work above the filter with ease--potentially.

I used PB Blaster, which I think helped loosen the nuts. Got the new filter on in 2 minutes flat. Everything was going great, I almost had the top bolt tightened properly, and then:



Yes, the little top bolt broke off in the filter. No I did not overtighten it, it simply broke like it was made of plastic. Like every other damn corroded bolt on my car. This is the third bolt that has broken off in the engine bay. The last one was the one that adjusted the alternator belt (had to buy a whole alternator just to get a replacement bracket), the one before that the PSP (the shop charged me over $100 to put in a timesert). Cheap ass bolts. From now on, I am never reinstalling any OEM bolt I remove, they will be replaced with Grade 8 only. There's isn't a single one not covered in rust or corrosion anyway.

Today I drilled out that bolt with the filter still in place, no way was I removing it again. Fortunately I had liberally coated the threads with copper anti-seize, so it came right out.

I'm not even reusing the bracket bolts.
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