doode before you go and buy something

GET THE DAMN CODES SCANNED

theres no point in just throwing guesses at this

let the computer tell you whats wrong

 

I've been wanting to, but I'm pretty sure the places around here charge. I gotta get a bolt from the dealership tomorrow or somewhere, because I had one fall out of my break caliper and it slid down and was clanking off my rim sad.gif. Will be doin that tomorrow, and then I'm gonna call around and see if the people around me charge. If not, guess I'll have to fork out some money for gas and head back to town.

 

Dude I will garuntee that if you just roll down to Autozone, They will scan the code for free. It takes about 2 minutes to scan the code and then to erase it. Dude really just give it a go, It will probly only save you money. The dealership might even scan it for you for free. All you got to do is ask!

 

The only problem is it's about 45 minutes to the nearest one, and 45 minutes back. I just gotta scrape up the gas money. I also currently can't drive it that far, because I'm missin a bolt in my brake caliper, which is what I'll be pickin up tomorrow (my bro is taking me) because we have to go for some stuff for work.

 

so youd rather waste tons and tons of man hours, buy chemicals and other equipment...all to save a half hour drive to pinpoint the problem?

hell buy a scanner off ebay and have it shipped to your house

WALMART sells scanners now in the auto section

its like 40 bux

 

I'll have to look into that.

Also, I'm pretty sure the MAF sensor is dirty, it'd be a miracle if it wasnt. Seeing as it was left unhooked under my hood for the better part of 8 months.

 

removed

 

Ok, so I reset my ecu to see if it would clear stuff up...it didn't.

The cel went off for awhile, of course because it had to set again. But, she still ran the same. I think it may be a sticking injector, simply because when I was pulling off, it started hoppin and boggin, and then all of a sudden it was like it got a rush of fuel and air, and just took off. Once I got going it smoothed out. The idle was still rough too, and I have fixed the hose issue.

On my way home from work the CEL came back on, so I plan on makin a trip to town this saturday to get my codes scanned. (the guy here where I live wanted to charge 75$ just to put her on the cpu and tell me the codes.)

Also, I didn't mention this earlier because I forgot, but when I unplug my IAC, it should change the idle right? Well it doesn't do anything. Only when I unplug the TB.

When I waterlocked/bent a rod in my last engine, we tilted the IAC and water poured out of it..I didn't figure it shorted anything since the circuitry I belive is behind some safe barrier..I would think anyway.

Also, since I'm using the injectors off of my last engine, could they be messed up internally due to the flooding of water?

 

Ok so I finally got around to getting a scanner, and scanned my car.

Only 1 code showed up, and that was for my 02 circuit.

I erased it and am going to see if it drives normal until it sets as soon as i get my battery charged up(amp wire shorted and drained it).

Also, my scanner said under I/M Monitors, "Catalyst: Not Ready" and after I erased the code, my HTD 02 Sensor was "not ready"

I figure the 2nd is because the ecu has to set again, but what does the Catalyst not being ready mean? is that because of the 02 circuit code?

Also, it said that the "MIL" which is supposed to be my CEL? should be off, but it's on. Any input?

 

Which O2 sensor threw a code? B1S1 or B1S2? Which specific code? That's where you need to look for now. You have a cat between the O2 sensors?

I'm guessing that the catalyst not ready is a B1S2 code, since it's supposed to be after the cat. If that reading is off the ECU can be confused whether it's an issue with the O2 sensor or the cat.

I don't know why the CEL is on when the scanner says it shouldn't be. Are you certain that you didn't have another code? On my scanner there is a button to cycle through the codes, and if I didn't push it all I would see is the one.