Ah well I'll be sure to remember that next time haha.

And no, it's just a constant check engine light. I don't know if you saw my post about the idle, it doesn't like cold starting, and it doesnt like going from driving to a stop/idling. It tries to die, then catches its self and levels out after a few seconds. Not sure exactly what's causing this. I really just needa get it on a computer and get the codes. Would that safe mode you were talking about cause the idle to be weird liek that?

 

Hey man, I read this from top to bottom, it makes sense first you were stating that why floored or WOT it runs rich, smells bad (which is probly from the rich condtioin) and also the black smoke. Then a little later you stated that durring a cold start the car idles ruffly! This would make sense cause a cold start operates under a closed loop condition just like anytime you have the car at WOT, So my best theory to your problem is FUEL INJECTORS, if you have access to an OHM METER you can ohm the injectors to see if they have good impedance, which they are high impedance. You can also take them out and check visually.

See what happens man, People let me know if I am on the right track!

 

Luckily my dad has an ohm meter, so I'll pull it out and check em tomorrow, do you know what impedance they should be running at?

Also, not sure if this would cause it, 'cause I was told they're the same size, but I'm runnin a beta 2 swap, with my beta 1 intake manifold and beta 1 injectors.

 

Beta1 and Beta2 are inter-changeable for the most part, you should be okay. As far as impedance, I would guess about 12-18 ohms pin to pin. Also make sure that all the injectors are right about even, if you got one injector more than .05 off of the other, thats bad, there not flow matched, which is not good, causes one cylinder to run super rich or lean.

 

just a clarification

you are using ALL of your original beta 1 sensors correct?

can you get us a pic of your setup?

 

Yea, I've got all beta 1 sensors, and my phone won't take pictures, and my camera is..well idk where..but I'll use my dad's phone when he gets home if it isn't too late. I'm gonna see if he left his ohm meter here and check all the impedances.

Sorry I'm a noob, but what exactly do you mean by pin to pin?

 

Well are injectors use a Conection that is called EVE1! which makes things easy becuase it simply has two prongs on for +, one for -. Touch the leads from the Ohm meter corespondingly from color to symbol. Not sure what kind of ohm meter your using if it has diffrent setting for ohm, hopefully it just has one ohm setting and it the number you want to be ready is like this, .012 all the may to .018. Anywhere in those specs, your good, make sure to also write them down helps to see which one is bad, make sure you dont have 3 injectors at .016 and one at .013. Yes it is in spec but that one cylinder will be running lean!

 

Ok, so I just checked all four of my injectors, the impedances were all .016 ohms, so they're fine I'm assuming. What about the adapters on the harness? Should i check those and if so how?

 

check em with a 194 bulb

put a bulb across the 2 pins on the connectors

bulb should flash on and off pretty fast

if it stays on or if one flashes slower than the rest

you got a stuck injector

 

Where could I get one of these? and how expensive are they? And lastly, put it on the injector or the harness adapter?