Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Evaporation Cannister- Rev A

Old Apr 27, 2005 | 09:00 PM
  #1  
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Does anyone have a picutre of the evaporation cannister, I would like to know if I have a rev a or not.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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i believe they were just in 97 tibs... if you have something other than that, then you don't
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 09:27 PM
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I believe they all have Evap canisters. Rev A had them in the front left fender. After Rev A the evap canister was moved to the back by the gas tank. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 09:27 PM
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look like this...( borrowed from hp.com)


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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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QUOTE (Casper @ Apr 28 2005, 03:27 AM)
I believe they all have Evap canisters. Rev A had them in the front left fender. After Rev A the evap canister was moved to the back by the gas tank. Someone correct me if I am wrong.



I belive you are correct.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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Thanks! What all are the difference in the rev a and non rev or is the evap all there is?
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 10:39 PM
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That, and the ECU has slightly different programing as far as we've figured out.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 10:52 PM
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no friggin kidding. Rev A's have computers that are compatable with the cannisters. i found out the difficult way.

i had a big thread on this a while back. i relocated my cannister to the engine bay. wait a while for me to update.

what i did was i moved the box into the engine bay under the intake grommet above the battery. it is a great place and i even mounted it with the cannister bracket because it fit the screws! instead of extending the wires that the pressure valve is, i bought some tubing from home depot and extended it. it solved the problem--but there's a catch. every other hundred miles my CEL would come on and the gear timing would malfunction.

i quickly found out the problem. the tubs i bought were folding from heat AND there was a leak in one of them. so now what i have to do is buy some better, heat resistant, hard rubber tubes and replace the current tubes.

if i reset my ECU, and this works, i will tell you. tomorrow after work i'm going out to buy some. after installation, if i get a CEL i will have had enough and will decide to just buy a bypass barb and wire the tubes into each other with hopes that it will not be detected by the ECU.

the reason i have to keep my cannister is for the transmission and ECU to detect it properly. it also pressurizes the fuel tank to my knowlege. so it's important but you can drive without it. it's not like your engine is going to blow or malfunction or something. it just has to do with emissions. even if you take it out you can still pass emissions. you just have to avoid a CEL.

the valve has to be plugged in so you can't take that out either or else you will get a CEL. there are two options. 1. Bypass Barb and run the tubes together. only problem is i wouldn't know what to do with the fourth fuel tank tube as a barb has only 3 conectors. 2. Relocate the cannister and buy some good, hard, heat resist tubing. I will post pics of them both. if one doesn't work I will post the other.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 11:20 PM
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cool, ive been waiting for someone to relocate it properly. maybe a diy.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 11:35 PM
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i can do a DIY but i did it 6 months ago so i would not have pictures. without pictures it would be difficult to explain, but i can have some pictures. i garuntee it's a great place to have the cannister in the engine bay and it WILL work.

if everyone demands, i can put up some pictures tomorrow and do a DIY. what to buy, what tools to use...etc.
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