Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Drivers Side Axle...

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Old 01-29-2006, 03:09 PM
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Okay guys, went to work on the RD1 today, got a LOT DONE.

Replaced the Crank Position sensor, got rid of the CEL.

Adjusted the throttle cables and idle, along with a new Keifco TPS, now it's idling right at 1000 RPM's. Very good.

Went and found some replacement screws for the TPS. So everyone knows in the future they are M4 X 0.7 12MM screws. I replaced those and the lock and flat washers on them so no more stripping screws, though I shouldn't have to remove the TPS again.

Replaced the metal clips that hold the MAF harness on the MAF (WTF do folks take those OFF FOR????) and the Idle Bypass harness on the Idle Bypass sensor (Exact same clip as the TPS clip...). Now those don't shake off during driving anymore. Heh.


Now, onto the HELP ME PORTION.

This is the RD1 that ABQELantra used to own. The drivers axle came out at the tranny side and I need to figure out my options to get it back in. I got under it today and looked at it, took some pictures, but for the life of me, I can't even really see how you are supposed to move anything in there. There's no slack at all.

As you can see the cotter pin/castleated nut on the end of the rotor got smashed up by previous efforts to get the axle in place. I need to know if I'm going to need a new axle too now, or will that whole section be replaced when I do the noncaptive swap?

Pics are being uploaded now...
















I can take more pics as needed. I know allready that the tranny pic isn't an issue, thanks SOCKS. Just need help with the rest.

I should have taken a pic of the whole assembly from further back, I have no idea how to get this thing going.
Old 01-29-2006, 04:06 PM
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Plain and simply put.... it's a PITA! I can't remember exactly how we got it off(not off the top of my head). I'll see if I can't look at it and refresh my mind...
Old 01-29-2006, 04:11 PM
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unscrew central nut and try to move shaft in the tranny by hands (or slightly hammering on the shaft, where you took out the nut from).
Old 01-29-2006, 04:30 PM
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Heh, everyone thinks I DESTROYED that nut and the end of the axle. I wasn't even in the state or owner of the car at that point.

LOL

I've been getting some education from Viper and Agarwal on the ordeal.

Seems that the nut and cotter pin SHOULDN'T HAVE BEEN ON THERE AT ALL when popping it back in. It wasn't moving at all. I'm going to try to work on it this week.

Faith, I need a axle bro, can you get me one? Drivers side, manual. I'll update you guys as soon as I know more.
Old 01-29-2006, 04:35 PM
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Yo man,

That axle is totally fvcked! 02.gif LOL. If you end up having to get a new axle, it will be a very tedious process to get that axle nut off so you can get the axle out of the spindle.

On to your question, on my trans (manual, I don't know if this is an auto, but I can't see why it would be different), all you have to do to get the axle back into the diff is shove it in there pretty hard. Although in your case it would be difficult to get up the momentum. Try just grabbing the axle shaft and pushing quickly into the trans. The only thing that holds the axle in there is a little circlip around the end of the axle.

Are you sure that your axle nut is tightened to the proper spec? If it is not then your wheel bearing will not be torqued properly and it will go bad pretty quick.

I wonder what kind of nut job was hammering on the axle like that and what they thought it was doing for them. LOL.
Old 01-29-2006, 04:41 PM
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Removing the axle

Note: NEVER hammer the tip of the axle. You shoudn't need to. If you REALLY need to hammer it, use a rubber hammer, NOT a metal hammer.

Start with the car on it's wheels, on the ground. Since you have to unscrew the axle nut, if you start with the car jacked, you'll just get the engine/transmission to turn as you try to unscrew it.







Then jack the car:



Drain the tranny fluid:



Unscrew those:





Then you can't just take the axle off the hub:



You should just have to pull on the axle to get it out. Ideally pull near the tranny. To re-install, just push it in. You shouldn't need to hammer it in, just ram it in, gently.
Old 01-29-2006, 05:44 PM
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very nice DIY agarwal.......
Old 01-29-2006, 05:49 PM
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as i sent you via IM(which i know since your away you never check cool.gif )

i didnt see a single manual trans hyundai ANYWERE at the yards

not even a accent or excel

also let me know if you need the fluid ill pick some up if you want and bring it when i bring over the movie and junk

its about 5.50 a quart

when i did the axle on mine i just slid it as far as it would let me without effort then gave it a good push and it lined up

should be the same for you
Old 01-29-2006, 06:51 PM
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Well, I already talked to Redz about this but.......RULES:

1. Never hammer on the axle or use the opposite end to put it in the tranny. Not even with a rubber mallet. Putting force on the axle joints will weaken them. Push the hub in by hand nearest the tranny. It should simply snap in.

2. Never pull on the opposite end to get it out of the tranny. (Same reason as above)

3. Put the tranny side of the axle in FIRST. The suspension side last.

Here's a virtual b****slap for the person that fubared that axle trying to get it in!!!! *smack*
Try reading Webtech next time, like we tell EVERY NOOB that comes to this site.
Old 01-29-2006, 07:48 PM
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Well, on that note, I know there was a lot of folks offering help on how to get the axle in when it first came out. Some info got mixed up obviously, and some folks DID SAY TO JUST KICK IT IN or use a mallet.

Thanks for the help guys, I'm motivated now. Hopefully I can get another axle and get this one replaced this week.

BTW, should I worry about that pic of the tranny with the little part broken off?



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