You talk about spinning tires like its a good thing LOL.

 

Has anybody had problems with leaking fluid after doing this?

I can understand that removing the delay effect on the biting of the clutch could help prolong your clutch on launches and quick shifts, however... could this not put more strain on your drivetrain from the sudden amount of power placed on it?

And can somebody please post up the correct pics, hmaservice link doesnt work even after login...

 

can I bump for some opinions and pics?

 

Holy shit!! I just did this mod, and I have no words to describe the difference. It feels 100x better. I had this issue - sometimes when I was shifting gears quickly, the clutch would not catch completely for a few seconds, and I could feel the engine revving even though there was no acceleration. I'm sure it was because of this stupid plate thingy, it didn't allow the clutch to go back fast enough. Now it's perfect, I can shift really fast and it feels a lot smoother.

I doubt that this would have any bad side effects, like make the clutch wear out faster or anything, but even if it would, I don't care. I'm not putting that thing back in there smile.gif

To everybody who didn't do this - try it!!

 

I'm assuming this is removing the valve spring in the picture below? And what's the "shrader" thing that pops out, would that be the valve plate?

Also, would someone do a DIY somewhere on how to properly bleed a clutch?

 

Both the valve plate and the valve spring should be removed.

Bleeding is just like bleeding brakes. Connect a see-through hose to the bleeding screw; have someone push the clutch, untighten screw until liquid starts coming out, tighten back when it slows down. Pump the pedal a couple times, and then repeat the whole thing until only liquid with no air bubbles comes out.

 

^^ Thanks for the input! I haven't bled brakes before either so... When the clutch is pressed, won't there be pressure causing the fluid to squirt out, or should it be slow and mostly air?
How much clutch fluid came out when you did the mod and did you have to get/add more?

 

^^ basically every time you pump the clutch, fluid will come out. Make sure you seal off the bleeder before you release the clutch or it will draw in air. give it like 1/8pump, loosen bleeder, push it to the floor, tighten bleeder, release pedal, repeat.

It's always best to add new, but you can reuse the old stuff. It should not be brown. If it's brown, bleed ALL the fluid out and then put new in and bleed it properly.

It's like 2 cans of dot3 or dot4. The car comes with dot3 fluid. I went with dot 4 synthetic when i drained and refilled mine. It seems more high tech and I love my car... so it gets the best.

 

It's going to be slow because untightening the bleeding screw a little probably gives a TINY opening for fluid/air to come out. You only turn it a little, until it starts to flow slowly.

You are going to have to drain ALL the fluid, since you will be disconnecting the line from the cylinder (sure, you could clamp the line or something, but why bother, that liquid could use some changing anyway). But it's a very small tank, you just need some DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, pick up a small bottle, it's prolly a good idea to have some handy anyway.

I did it like this:

1) use a vise grip to unfreeze the rusted to hell bleed screw after seriously rounding it with a wrench (rounding part optional lol)
2) attach a hose to the bleed screw, and to some bottle or something
3) untighten the bleed screw, drain all the fluid
4) tighten it back
5) remove the banjo fitting on the fluid line
6) use a magnetic tool to grab the valve plate and spring
7) install the banjo fitting back
8) fill the clutch fluid tank with DOT 3 brake fluid
9) do the bleed procedure as I described it above. During this procedure, keep an eye on the fluid in the tank, and add more fluid when the fluid level gets too low.
10) top off the tank, enjoy a better clutch

 

Funny, I just did this two days ago. Works good...