DECREASE YOUR SHIFTING TIME!!!!!! 4 FREE
08-05-2004, 07:23 AM
#1
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Re: How about a bolt/stud package?
Heres a quick tip on how to increase your shift time, for MANUAL transmissions only, with pull type clutchs only. On top of the transmission case, sits the cluch cylinder... the hose that goes to one side has a 12mm bolt in it, take out that bolt, and push the other end, the springy side, and a little "shrader" should pop out, if not use a magnet and extract the spring, re-install the 12mm bolt and the hose, bleed the clutch, and enjoy. Now its not going to be a huge difference but if you really know your car, you can Really tell theres a difference. the cluch should ingauge quicker and grab lower........This in turn reduces clutch wear. if anyone would like anymore information, or clarifacation please respond.
08-05-2004, 07:26 AM
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
DECREASE YOUR SHIFTING TIME!!!!!! 4 FREE
Why in the hell would you want to "Increase your shifting time?"
You need to take some pics and such for this to be a DIY, not to mention some spelling lessons.
wink.gif
You need to take some pics and such for this to be a DIY, not to mention some spelling lessons.
wink.gif
08-05-2004, 02:22 PM
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Re: 19's on tib???
From http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/t...pic.php?t=42405
I did this mod, the clutch does feel like it grabs faster. For a 98-01 tib the correct link is http://www.hmaservice.com/xml/graphics/r7/r7ch017a.gif
QUOTE
Tools needed:
Ratchet
6 in. extension
12mm socket
12mm wrench
10mm wrench
Bottle of DOT4 brake fluid
PLENTY of wrags & a small bowl
Numbers correspond to the pic below.
1. Remove the clip and pop out the centering bolt.
2. Loosen the bleeder screw 10mm, then tighten it back up just a little. This will make it easier whne it comes time to bleed the system.
3. Loosen the banjo bolt but don't remove it completely. 12mm
4. Remove both bolts 12mm
Once the cylinder is loose of the tranny lift it up and place it in the bowl. Then remover the banjo bolt. There's a sealing washer on each side of the banjo bolt, be sure not to loose these. ( If the bolt is put back in without these washers it will leak ) let the line stay in the bowl, this way brake fluid doesn't run all over the top of the tranny.
Once the banjo bolt is completely out tilt the cylinder back and a small spring with a valve that has what looks like a pinhole in it should fall right out. If it for some reason doesn't, then push the clutch rod back into the cylinder. This will push out any fluid still inside and should pop the spring and valve out also.
Once the valve and spring are out reverse the removal process.
Once everythng is back together fill the slave master up with fluid. Open the bleeder screw and wait for fluid to start coming out. Close the bleeder, fill the master back up, put the top back on. Then bleed the system.
After the system is bled and ready to go get a hose and wash off the entire area with water. Also wash any other place that fluid got on. If you get fluid on the paint wash it off immediately as it will remove the paint.
Once it's bled and washed off you're ready for a test drive. The pedal will feel the same but the engagement and disengagement should be much more consistent.
http://www.hmaservice.com/xml/graphics/eo/eoda015a.jpg
It's the removal of the Valve Spring and Value plate................
Ratchet
6 in. extension
12mm socket
12mm wrench
10mm wrench
Bottle of DOT4 brake fluid
PLENTY of wrags & a small bowl
Numbers correspond to the pic below.
1. Remove the clip and pop out the centering bolt.
2. Loosen the bleeder screw 10mm, then tighten it back up just a little. This will make it easier whne it comes time to bleed the system.
3. Loosen the banjo bolt but don't remove it completely. 12mm
4. Remove both bolts 12mm
Once the cylinder is loose of the tranny lift it up and place it in the bowl. Then remover the banjo bolt. There's a sealing washer on each side of the banjo bolt, be sure not to loose these. ( If the bolt is put back in without these washers it will leak ) let the line stay in the bowl, this way brake fluid doesn't run all over the top of the tranny.
Once the banjo bolt is completely out tilt the cylinder back and a small spring with a valve that has what looks like a pinhole in it should fall right out. If it for some reason doesn't, then push the clutch rod back into the cylinder. This will push out any fluid still inside and should pop the spring and valve out also.
Once the valve and spring are out reverse the removal process.
Once everythng is back together fill the slave master up with fluid. Open the bleeder screw and wait for fluid to start coming out. Close the bleeder, fill the master back up, put the top back on. Then bleed the system.
After the system is bled and ready to go get a hose and wash off the entire area with water. Also wash any other place that fluid got on. If you get fluid on the paint wash it off immediately as it will remove the paint.
Once it's bled and washed off you're ready for a test drive. The pedal will feel the same but the engagement and disengagement should be much more consistent.
http://www.hmaservice.com/xml/graphics/eo/eoda015a.jpg
It's the removal of the Valve Spring and Value plate................
I did this mod, the clutch does feel like it grabs faster. For a 98-01 tib the correct link is http://www.hmaservice.com/xml/graphics/r7/r7ch017a.gif
08-05-2004, 04:38 PM
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Re: stocker tirer
I've done this mod on my tib also, and I felt a diff right away. I found the biggest benifit is when double clutching, b/c the clutch engages more positively during the shift. :twisted:
And yes I think the title should read decrease or improve tongue.gif
And yes I think the title should read decrease or improve tongue.gif
08-05-2004, 05:13 PM
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Re: Custom FG subwoofer enclosures
sounds like a really BAD idea to me.... honestly why would they put those things in the clutch if they didnt do something somewhat important. personally i really wouldnt recommend taking things out of the clutch, but thats just me. ohh and it really sounds like this whole process would be a big PITA.... but thats just my .02
08-05-2004, 06:02 PM
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How to open headlights for Angel Eyes?
The part you remove is just a restricter for the fluid return line.
Removeing it just make the clutch engage quicker.
The manufacturer prolly put it there to save the clutch & gearbox a little.
There is realy no diff unless you let the clutch out fast.
Removeing it just make the clutch engage quicker.
The manufacturer prolly put it there to save the clutch & gearbox a little.
There is realy no diff unless you let the clutch out fast.