oem clutch is 2 years old
using a fidanza lightwheel flywheel.

I did the airram, tb and flywheel at the same time.
there's noticeable difference in acceleration.

 

I had almost forgoten all about this thread. Stupid me... Lol... Well... I guess I'll go back to shopping around. My main thing is that since I'm not going to be adding a lot of power for a couple years (want to finish up school first, if I ever go back to school... Money bites) I Just wanted to at the least up grade a little. This stuuf costs so much money... Grrr... I can't really afford anything like what everybody's suggesting. Granted, my clutch hasn't gone yet. Yet... I know that it's only a matter of time. I think... Do you really think that even a small upgrade is even worh it for a stock engine? The only engine "mod" is going to be my AEM CAI (that I just ordered). I'm not counting my spark plugs and wires they're more like upgrades. Anyway, should i just go with an OEM clutch? When I'm done with UTI, I want to rebuild the entire engine and add a stage 1 turbo and intercooler. That's about two or three years off tho...

I just don't know what to do... I HATE MONEY!!!! You always need it, but you never have enough. This Adult stuff sucks... I want to be a kid again... aargh4.gif


^^^ It's interesting how you've got this setup on KSPEC for $799; and yet, you suggest their's. Why? Or am I mistaken?

 

I suggest theirs?

You mean I suggest buying it from Airborne?

If so, you are asking why?

LOL

Hmm, $799 or $500. I'd suggest the $500 one.

 

Lol... I got you. I was thinking that airborne was another "vender" not a person. That's too funnt. Anyway, what about my other question?

 

Depends on the upgrade. But if you think of it, your engine will never get more powerful or responsive if you don't do ANYTHING to it.

 

In the immidiate future... Just an AEM CAI. I've already upgraded to canister type muffler, if that counts. That's about it. As far as "The big scheme" of things, full internals and (maybe) a Stage 1 turbo and intercooler set-up. However, the bulk of my money now is going to go towords more "showy" stuff.

And here comes the bashing...

 

Have people forgotten already, There is an act clutch available for the tib just go to act's web site.

Also remember the pull push conversion i did a writeup on awhile back for the same price you would spend on a vhr you can get into a 2600lb clutch capable of 500whp PROVEN. The vhr is just a stock unit with upgraded parts Along with almost all the other bolt up applications. Stay away from clutchmasters spec veleo/vhr unless you are not planing on it lasting more than 2 years.

 

I have a bunch of power mods on my elantra. I autox and generally beat the crap out of it in between times. I also maintain it extremely well. I recently had to decide what clutch to get since my original was slipping under heavy acceleration above 3800 rpms or on heavy launch. After a lot of research and a lot of thinking on the matter I decided to go with the OE replacement clutch and resurfaced the stock flywheel. Here is why

1) Unless you are going FI over 200whp then you don't NEED a stage 1 or 2 clutch
2) The OE one lasted 40k miles and still had plenty of life on it for normal+ driving
3) I would have gone with the fidenza flywheel but it would have put me in a higher class in SCCA
4) Fidenza is the best and if I were to upgrade to a lightened flywheel, this is the one.
5) OE clutch grabs hard when needed and never slipped until it wore out (40k).


If you want to ungrade because of feel or you are going to drag race a lot then definately get a race clutch. ACT is a good one. If you are just going to do some spirited driving around town, then don't waste your money on the clutch.

If you want to upgrade a bit for performance and help those hanging revs a bit too, definately spend your money on the Fidenza flywheel.

 

I've blown/destroyed 3 Spec clutch kits!!!! And they didn't hold very well either.

I've also tried out the XTD stage 3 on Ebay. I used it for about 3k miles, but it didn't hold the 300tq it said it should. Maybe like 220 at most.

Right now I'm using Clutchnet, which is what Tim and Viper966 are using. I HIGHLY recommend you buy this one. It's been proven on high HP Tibs. Viper has like 300lbs of torque on his. I only gave it a short 200 mile break in on the highway, then raced it all day on the drag strip at the TX Meet this weekend. It held GREAT!!!!!!

Don't take this the wrong way or as arrogant, but I've gone through several clutch companies and none of these people actually put down the power Tim, Viper, and I have. So you might wanna take my advice here and go with what all the high HP Tibs have.

Here's pics of my spec clutches afterwards:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/Sha...er/DSCN0677.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/Sha...er/DSCN0676.jpg

Do you really want those pieces flying around your transmission when it's rotating 5krpm?

 

Ehh, I remember you did a post on it, but I never saw any pictures or an actual DIY on it. if you don't do one, folks don't know about it. If it's not done to where someone can follow it, it's not added to the DIY listing.



Ehh, no they aren't. VHR makes TONS of different clutch kits, and most of them have nothing to do with the OEM clutch. They DO make the OEM clutch too, but the ones that Kspec.com and others sell (Airborne can get it for cheap) isn't OEM at all. We've had many members buy them and have them last for well over 3 or 4 years now, under boost.



I don't agree at all. My wife's RD1 has a Fidanza and lots of work done to the engine, it's NA, and it's got a stage 3 clutch. I wouldn't want to drive that car without it, it's GREAT.



What makes you think it's the best? You need to quantify that statement. I personally, after having had my hands on both, prefer the VHR flywheel. It's not a lightened flywheel, it's a forged lightweight flyweel. Very very nice, and the one going on my car.