Replace Your Bad Wheel Bearing Yourself!
#13
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central PA
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First of all, I'd like to say sorry to everyone here waiting. I've been gone and busy the past couple months and haven't had much time, nor money, to do the things I've wanted with my car. I've been getting hit with every bill possible lately (and have yet to receive my $1000 from the lottery mad.gif ).
Hopefully I'll have my bearing here withing the next week or so and will be able to get some nice pics and descriptions while I'm at it.
Once again, I'm sorry. If anyone needs help before I can get my car in our garage and get it done, just ask! If you go with an assembly instead of replacing JUST the bearings (It does cost more but saves a lot of time and hassle, especially if you don't have a press.) it'll be much easier and faster.
Hopefully I'll have my bearing here withing the next week or so and will be able to get some nice pics and descriptions while I'm at it.
Once again, I'm sorry. If anyone needs help before I can get my car in our garage and get it done, just ask! If you go with an assembly instead of replacing JUST the bearings (It does cost more but saves a lot of time and hassle, especially if you don't have a press.) it'll be much easier and faster.
#15
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Location: Central PA
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Hey guys, I just want to say that I won't be able to complete this DIY. This morning around 2 hours ago I wrecked my car. Sorry for everyone who has been waiting.
#16
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Alright, I need some clarification here before I go do this tomorrow. I changed a rear wheel bearing over a year ago and changed the whole hub assembly so I didn't have to deal with pressing. Can someone who has done both tell me if I can do the fronts the same way as far as just buying a new hub assembly?
In other news, I checked autozone's web site and they have both a bearing, and a hub/bearing assembly.
In other news, I checked autozone's web site and they have both a bearing, and a hub/bearing assembly.
#17
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Location: Western PA
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Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon
There are a lot of 1/2 how to's for the bearing, and ive seen a few different ways to do it but no one has posted full pictures of everything involved. I have been scouring for enough information to type up and post but have been coming up empty in the pic department.
#18
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
yep... the final conclusion btw is that rears are easy and can just be replaced along with the hub assembly, but taht the fronts have to be pressed.
#19
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Vehicle: uhm..... N/A
You guys realize on the 2000's they arnt pressed in right!? I just did mine about a month ago. After you pull it all appart and look at the back side of the hub there is a snap ring that rests inside there remove that and whack (hit with a hammer and small block of wood a few times to break the rust welds free and it will slide out and the new one will slide in. I used a wire wheel to clean up the inside of the wheel bearing surface but other than than It took me about an hour to do.
No you cannot but the hub assymboly, unless possibly from hyundai. Other than that it would be a complete stearing knuckly assymboly. Have fun with the cost though, as it will be dealer only.
The rear wheel bearings are stupid easy to change and dont bother with wether or not you get abs or non-abs a hammer or prybar will remove the abs ring with ease.
All in all, there is no need to go to a machine shop if you have a 2000 year Hyundai Tiburon. I bought 4 front wheel bearings due to the fact that I took my car in for service cause I could hear the bearings song of death that nice catchy hummm, which will follow with the bearing seizing up and nolonger rotating freely. Cost me 100$ for one side, no more than 1 week later that song of death came back, took the car back in. They tell me that the same wheel bearing has gone bad again and it would cost me another 100$ to have it changed. WTF!? most wheel bearings from any parts store only cost 20$ 89$ max if you so choose to buy the beckly/arnley secondly they all carry atlest a 1year 1200 mile warrentee. So I told them short to put my car back together and cancel the additional warentee I had bought for the car for 1700$. Bought the parts (that are slightly more expensive now) 14$ each (reason I bought 4 (reason only bought 4 was cause thats all they had in stock)) Went home started pulling the wheel apart I mean it was bad you could turn the wheel feel the resistance to want to turn. Started looking at it, what a surprise it was completely rusted so after removing the dust sheild, popping the ball joint out, removing the tie-rod, removed the halfshaft bolt\washer, and the 2 bolts that connect it from the strut I had myself a knucle assymboly. Rinsed the knuckle clean of any pb-blaster and started to examine the knuckle found that the side wall of the bearing was completely missing. Come on now if it had been "changed 1 week ago" Im sure it wouldnt have rusted and melted, and what noted itslef again. Removed the snap ring that held the bearing in and prepped for the worst. Clamped it down in the vise found a small block of wood and the mini 10lb sledge whack whack whack whack whack, short pause, whack whack whack fwoomp bearing dropped down out of the knuckle. A little bit of soaking in more pb-blaster and cleaning with a wire wheel and the bearing slid into its new home. Then I reverse removal process that shizit.
Yes, yes I know Enter Key is my friend, but only after I finish what I was going to say.
The End
No you cannot but the hub assymboly, unless possibly from hyundai. Other than that it would be a complete stearing knuckly assymboly. Have fun with the cost though, as it will be dealer only.
The rear wheel bearings are stupid easy to change and dont bother with wether or not you get abs or non-abs a hammer or prybar will remove the abs ring with ease.
All in all, there is no need to go to a machine shop if you have a 2000 year Hyundai Tiburon. I bought 4 front wheel bearings due to the fact that I took my car in for service cause I could hear the bearings song of death that nice catchy hummm, which will follow with the bearing seizing up and nolonger rotating freely. Cost me 100$ for one side, no more than 1 week later that song of death came back, took the car back in. They tell me that the same wheel bearing has gone bad again and it would cost me another 100$ to have it changed. WTF!? most wheel bearings from any parts store only cost 20$ 89$ max if you so choose to buy the beckly/arnley secondly they all carry atlest a 1year 1200 mile warrentee. So I told them short to put my car back together and cancel the additional warentee I had bought for the car for 1700$. Bought the parts (that are slightly more expensive now) 14$ each (reason I bought 4 (reason only bought 4 was cause thats all they had in stock)) Went home started pulling the wheel apart I mean it was bad you could turn the wheel feel the resistance to want to turn. Started looking at it, what a surprise it was completely rusted so after removing the dust sheild, popping the ball joint out, removing the tie-rod, removed the halfshaft bolt\washer, and the 2 bolts that connect it from the strut I had myself a knucle assymboly. Rinsed the knuckle clean of any pb-blaster and started to examine the knuckle found that the side wall of the bearing was completely missing. Come on now if it had been "changed 1 week ago" Im sure it wouldnt have rusted and melted, and what noted itslef again. Removed the snap ring that held the bearing in and prepped for the worst. Clamped it down in the vise found a small block of wood and the mini 10lb sledge whack whack whack whack whack, short pause, whack whack whack fwoomp bearing dropped down out of the knuckle. A little bit of soaking in more pb-blaster and cleaning with a wire wheel and the bearing slid into its new home. Then I reverse removal process that shizit.
Yes, yes I know Enter Key is my friend, but only after I finish what I was going to say.
The End