Replace Your Bad Wheel Bearing Yourself!
05-01-2007, 03:21 PM
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OK, from the time you walk out and look at your car this is what you'll need to do.
Parts:
Torque Wrench (or regular ratchet with a metal bar for leverage).
Ratchet
12, 14, and 17mm sockets
Needle Nose Plyers
Tuning fork
1"1/4 Socket
Nice heavy hammer
1. look at your car (think about all the things you want to buy from FlyRyde for it).
2. Loosen your Lug nuts, then jack up the car and put it on jack stands (stands should be under the pinch weld right under the front of the doors right before the wheel well).
3. Remove wheels. Then remove the cotter pin in the axle nut, and lastly the axle nut with the 1"1/4 socket. ***
4. Use 12mm Socket to remove the caliper (top section with pads). There are two bolts there. After its off, prop up the caliper so its not dangling by the brake line, and keep it out of the way (or you could pull the brake line, but screw that).
5. Remove the two bolts holding on the caliper bracket with a 17mm socket.
6. Remove Rotor (should just slide off unless its rusted on there). You might have a Philips head screw keeping it in place.
7. Remove the cotter pin from the 17mm nut holding on the control arm, then remove the nut.
8. Push in the axle as much as you can, and reveal the 14mm nut holding the knuckle to the A-arm. (Most likely, the dust pan from behind the rotor will be in the way, so you'll need to wiggle it by pulling towards you until it will spin freely where ever you want it). This nut is in a hard spot to get to. You might want to use an open end wrench and a ton of patients while you loosen it. As it gets close to coming off, it might end up running into the axle unless the axle is pushed way back.
9. Grab your tuning fork, and carefully set the two prongs between the top of the rubber boot, and the bottom of the knuckle. If you mess up the boot when seperating the kuckle from the A-arm, you'll want to replace it so the lube doesn't leak out of the boot. Once the fork is in position, you'll need to bang the end of it like you mean to hurt somebody. Basically, you have to hammer the fork between the A-arm and the Knuckle so that they seperate, which will allow you to push the A-arm down a bit, and get the bolt out from the kuckle.
10. Now you should have nothing else holding the knuckle to the car except for two 17mm bolts on the strut. Remove those bolts, and the kuckle/hub assembly will be free enough to push the axle out the back. The axle is splined to be a tight fit through the hub, so until its all the way out, dont pull the knuckle/hub away from the car. You could easily pop the axle out at the transmission, which wont hurt anything, but it'll spill gear oil everywhere and need to be popped back in.
Once the knuckle is off the car, it should look like a big black cast piece with a silver hub (the thing with the 4 lug bolts coming out) that spins inside the knuckle, and in between those two pieces, there is a black sheet metal dust shroud that'll likely be able to move freely around. You take this mess, and stick it in a plastic bag, or something that allows you to move it without getting everything it touches all greasy. Bring that to any local machine shop. Tell them you heard it costs 20-25 bucks to remove and press in a new bearing. Make sure you have a brand new bearing in its box. They'll likely want to see if the bearing is new, which it should be. I get mine at autozone for 17 bucks special order. It takes about a week to get them in, but they're cheap, and I keep extras in case I have a bearing go out.
Get the assembly back with the new bearing in it, and reinstall everything. Then go get a front wheel alignment on your car for 40-50 bucks. When you're tightening the bolts, what I like to use is a 3/8" ratchet, and a metal tube/bar that slides over the handle of the ratchet, and also doubles as a nice hammer to bang into the ratchet to make sure everything is nice and tight. Like when you're tightening or loosening the 17mm bolts that hold on the caliper bracket, just position the socket over the bolt, then bang the hell out of the ratchet until it becomes easy enough to just use the ratchet. Otherwise, some of those bolts are on too tight to even attempt a knuckle buster (where you're too dumb and reckless and you push as hard as you can on some way tight bolt until it gives, and your hand flys into some nice sharp metal = much blood, etc.). Once everything is back in place, and you get the wheels on, use that torque wrench at 80lbs. to make sure the lugs are on right. Of course do that after the jobs done, and the front wheels are back on the ground with the stands removed.
Total Time to remove everything 2-4 hours. It takes me 30 minutes, but I seem to have to do this a lot, and I made a jig for the axle nut. It should take less than a day to get the knuckle back from a machine shop. Drop it off in the morning, at like 8am and you'll have it done between noon and 4pm. The install is much easier than the dissassembly. It might take you half as long if you paid attention to taking everything apart. One thing to watch when you reassemble everything, is that the stupid dust shroud gets pushed back as far as it'll sit on behind the hub. If its not, while your driving it'll touch the rotor a little bit, and let out a horrible screeching/metal noise. Dont worry though, if it does even after you'd pushed it back and reassembled everything, jump out of the car, and just push it some more if you can get your hands in through the spokes of your wheels. Then test drive some more and see if the noise persists.
Total Cost Breakdown
Bearing: 17 bucks and change
Press/Pull: 20-30 bucks
Alignment: 50 bucks
so it should be under 100 bucks with parts and labor, and should take all of three days to have it all done with. Day one is removal, then day two is half waiting on the machine shop, and another hour or two reinstalling. If you have time after the machine shop and get it installed, get it aligned the same day, and it'll only be a two day ordeal, otherwise do the alignment on the 3rd day.
*** I made a special Jig that allows for me to put the two bottom lug bolts through a 3/4" sheet of wood, with a half circle cut out around the axle nut. I slip the jig over two of the lug bolts, and position them at the bottom of the hub, and I very slowly lower the car on the jack, of course without the jackstand in position. I lower the car just enough for the jig to be locked into position, so that the hub won't spin, but I can tighten down, or loosen the axle nut. Looks just like this:
I'll add pics to this next time I pull the car apart.
Parts:
Torque Wrench (or regular ratchet with a metal bar for leverage).
Ratchet
12, 14, and 17mm sockets
Needle Nose Plyers
Tuning fork
1"1/4 Socket
Nice heavy hammer
1. look at your car (think about all the things you want to buy from FlyRyde for it).
2. Loosen your Lug nuts, then jack up the car and put it on jack stands (stands should be under the pinch weld right under the front of the doors right before the wheel well).
3. Remove wheels. Then remove the cotter pin in the axle nut, and lastly the axle nut with the 1"1/4 socket. ***
4. Use 12mm Socket to remove the caliper (top section with pads). There are two bolts there. After its off, prop up the caliper so its not dangling by the brake line, and keep it out of the way (or you could pull the brake line, but screw that).
5. Remove the two bolts holding on the caliper bracket with a 17mm socket.
6. Remove Rotor (should just slide off unless its rusted on there). You might have a Philips head screw keeping it in place.
7. Remove the cotter pin from the 17mm nut holding on the control arm, then remove the nut.
8. Push in the axle as much as you can, and reveal the 14mm nut holding the knuckle to the A-arm. (Most likely, the dust pan from behind the rotor will be in the way, so you'll need to wiggle it by pulling towards you until it will spin freely where ever you want it). This nut is in a hard spot to get to. You might want to use an open end wrench and a ton of patients while you loosen it. As it gets close to coming off, it might end up running into the axle unless the axle is pushed way back.
9. Grab your tuning fork, and carefully set the two prongs between the top of the rubber boot, and the bottom of the knuckle. If you mess up the boot when seperating the kuckle from the A-arm, you'll want to replace it so the lube doesn't leak out of the boot. Once the fork is in position, you'll need to bang the end of it like you mean to hurt somebody. Basically, you have to hammer the fork between the A-arm and the Knuckle so that they seperate, which will allow you to push the A-arm down a bit, and get the bolt out from the kuckle.
10. Now you should have nothing else holding the knuckle to the car except for two 17mm bolts on the strut. Remove those bolts, and the kuckle/hub assembly will be free enough to push the axle out the back. The axle is splined to be a tight fit through the hub, so until its all the way out, dont pull the knuckle/hub away from the car. You could easily pop the axle out at the transmission, which wont hurt anything, but it'll spill gear oil everywhere and need to be popped back in.
Once the knuckle is off the car, it should look like a big black cast piece with a silver hub (the thing with the 4 lug bolts coming out) that spins inside the knuckle, and in between those two pieces, there is a black sheet metal dust shroud that'll likely be able to move freely around. You take this mess, and stick it in a plastic bag, or something that allows you to move it without getting everything it touches all greasy. Bring that to any local machine shop. Tell them you heard it costs 20-25 bucks to remove and press in a new bearing. Make sure you have a brand new bearing in its box. They'll likely want to see if the bearing is new, which it should be. I get mine at autozone for 17 bucks special order. It takes about a week to get them in, but they're cheap, and I keep extras in case I have a bearing go out.
Get the assembly back with the new bearing in it, and reinstall everything. Then go get a front wheel alignment on your car for 40-50 bucks. When you're tightening the bolts, what I like to use is a 3/8" ratchet, and a metal tube/bar that slides over the handle of the ratchet, and also doubles as a nice hammer to bang into the ratchet to make sure everything is nice and tight. Like when you're tightening or loosening the 17mm bolts that hold on the caliper bracket, just position the socket over the bolt, then bang the hell out of the ratchet until it becomes easy enough to just use the ratchet. Otherwise, some of those bolts are on too tight to even attempt a knuckle buster (where you're too dumb and reckless and you push as hard as you can on some way tight bolt until it gives, and your hand flys into some nice sharp metal = much blood, etc.). Once everything is back in place, and you get the wheels on, use that torque wrench at 80lbs. to make sure the lugs are on right. Of course do that after the jobs done, and the front wheels are back on the ground with the stands removed.
Total Time to remove everything 2-4 hours. It takes me 30 minutes, but I seem to have to do this a lot, and I made a jig for the axle nut. It should take less than a day to get the knuckle back from a machine shop. Drop it off in the morning, at like 8am and you'll have it done between noon and 4pm. The install is much easier than the dissassembly. It might take you half as long if you paid attention to taking everything apart. One thing to watch when you reassemble everything, is that the stupid dust shroud gets pushed back as far as it'll sit on behind the hub. If its not, while your driving it'll touch the rotor a little bit, and let out a horrible screeching/metal noise. Dont worry though, if it does even after you'd pushed it back and reassembled everything, jump out of the car, and just push it some more if you can get your hands in through the spokes of your wheels. Then test drive some more and see if the noise persists.
Total Cost Breakdown
Bearing: 17 bucks and change
Press/Pull: 20-30 bucks
Alignment: 50 bucks
so it should be under 100 bucks with parts and labor, and should take all of three days to have it all done with. Day one is removal, then day two is half waiting on the machine shop, and another hour or two reinstalling. If you have time after the machine shop and get it installed, get it aligned the same day, and it'll only be a two day ordeal, otherwise do the alignment on the 3rd day.
*** I made a special Jig that allows for me to put the two bottom lug bolts through a 3/4" sheet of wood, with a half circle cut out around the axle nut. I slip the jig over two of the lug bolts, and position them at the bottom of the hub, and I very slowly lower the car on the jack, of course without the jackstand in position. I lower the car just enough for the jig to be locked into position, so that the hub won't spin, but I can tighten down, or loosen the axle nut. Looks just like this:
I'll add pics to this next time I pull the car apart.
05-02-2007, 08:46 AM
#3
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Captive rotors would require you to do the same thing, only you have to bring in the assembly with the rotor still on. For the money, its cheaper to buy a non captive setup from a junk yard, with a good wheel bearing already in it, and just swap the parts, then get an alignment. To anyone who has captive, get rid of your setup if you ever need to replace a rotor, or wheel bearing, and get a non captive setup from a 99 or newer tib.
08-06-2007, 10:39 PM
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Trying not to bring back a dead DIY, but I was wondering if anyone would be interested in pictures for this? I will be changing my rear right one really soon (seeing as I replaced the rear left and had the front two replaced, might as well change the rear right). Just as an additional helper.
Btw, this DIY is great, helped me a lot to familiarize myself before I actually did it. (it's not very hard at all, just better knowing exactly what to do)
Btw, this DIY is great, helped me a lot to familiarize myself before I actually did it. (it's not very hard at all, just better knowing exactly what to do)
08-06-2007, 11:58 PM
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Vehicle: N/A as in Not Applicable, not Naturally Aspirated
Definitely! But take the pictures so they are related to Chris' words (unless you are gonna do your own write-up)...
And a mod can edit the first post (or Chris himself) to add the pics in where they should go.
And a mod can edit the first post (or Chris himself) to add the pics in where they should go.
08-07-2007, 09:38 AM
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Alrighty! I'll take some pics when I do my next one.
I'll have to see which way I go with (Either buying just the bearing and having to press it, or buying the assembly). If I go with the bearing I'll follow Chris' DIY, but if I get an assembly I'll make my own write-up. fing02.gif
I'll have to see which way I go with (Either buying just the bearing and having to press it, or buying the assembly). If I go with the bearing I'll follow Chris' DIY, but if I get an assembly I'll make my own write-up. fing02.gif
