haha !!On my stock 2.0 ECU, i got a little dead spot about 5500 to 6000, then from 6000 to redline about 6700, theres power again !!

strange.

 

my modified ecu is this one: 39110-23920 1.8 97 Elantra and i dont have a CEL on at the moment. i just found out that i have a 1.8 ecu.... owned.gif

 

I installed a 1.8 ecu in my tib last night.

That back left bolt is a b****! I definitely didn't worry about reinstalling it when I was done. Other than that bolt, the install was very easy. Here's a note that nobody has mentioned before though...

When you're done, and trying to reconnect the harness, you have to start by coming in at an angle on the side that doesn't lock in. It should sort of snap in that side, then you bring the other side up and lock it down.



The car still runs great, so there are no problems going from rev a to non-rev a. I HAD the 23910 ECU, I swapped it for the 23940.

However, honestly, I don't feel any difference. I figure it is because my car is pretty heavily N/A modded already (cai, bbtb, airram, headers, exhaust), if you did this as your first mod, then you might feel it. I'm just hoping my MPG goes up.

Usually I get about 325 miles per tank (mostly city), right now I'm at 150 and just about a half tank, so right on track, I swapped last night, so we'll see if it goes up or not. I'll post back.

 

after reading this topic would anyone agree that if u have a 2001 tib that is it just not woth it to swap out the ecu?

 

Gas mileage increased about 75 more miles per tank.

However, I've got some weird issues after the install.

I think it has to do with me being Rev A, and having a 2001 RD2 motor though...

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...mp;#entry317824

 

sorry to ask but lantra over here used to have a speed limiter a 180km/h.... so was wondering if any or all of those 1.8L ecu as a speed limiter sad.gif

 

so uh....how do you guys explain this increase in mileage? Hopefully this 1.8l ecu isnt leaning out too much thus making it feel a bit peppy but get better mileage. Also, running lean might exlain some dead spots up top...however im sure since some of you have been running it for a while its not too drastic.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BlizagaXx @ May 21 2007, 02:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Yea but i dunno what the hell is wrong with it. I have a new ECU, Bosch Platinum two plugs with like 3k miles on them, duralast wires with like 3k miles on them, new fuel filter, CAI, and no matter how I drive or what octane i use i get shit for mileage. It's gotta be an injector problem or something... When I bought the car, the guy had paperwork for a "fuel system cleaning" from a local shop.

Here is the exact paper. I found it...

PCV Valve 11.34
Fuel Filter 25.42
Spark Plugs 16.00
Wires 72.59
Fuel Inj. Cleaner 19.95
Shop Supplies 2.91
Tune Elec. Ign. (minor) 129.75
R&R Filter 34.60
Haz Mat 4.36
Here's a good one! Fuel control system tune-up
-Clean gum and soft carbon deposit from fuel delivery components and inside combustion chamber. Perform complete fuel pressure and colume test. Road test vehicle. 109.95
Grand total for a tune up, $439.84
Accurate Auto Repair, "We Try Harder" 1-4-06
What do you think I should do? Should I maybe replace my fuel rail or injectors or something? This gas mileage is terrible..</div>


hey mate, check the spark plug gap. In my 1.8 i had coled burning plugs, and a 2mm gap. That is when i bought the car

 

Does it make a difference what brand the ecu is?
Mine has a Seimens, so do I need to use a Seimens 1.8 ecu? Are the conections the same?

 

Hi Col, yes the brand is VERY important; not actually because of the brand itself, but because only USA and Canada got the Bosh Ecu (between 97 through 2002) and those are the only markets with Betas equipped with MAF in those years. So, it's not because of the Ecu brand, but because what's recorded IN the Ecu, a Bosh Ecu would be useless for you.