rd1tib, just curious...what the hell did you bend that metal mounting piece with? damn...that's thick metal!!!

See, I am in college...

my tools are "borrowed" from AutoZone/Home Depot,
my toolbox is a USPS Priority Shipping Box (I'm on my third one rolleyes.gif ),
my air gun (for the wheel lugs) is a bar and my foot,
my hydrolic lift is a Ford, hand cranking, jackstand (came with a Ford Aspire, lol),
and my garage is Parking Lot J.

...and I tried and tried to bend that POS. I propped it up on the curb and use a crowbar and nothin, so I gave up and decided to figure out a way to use it the way it was...

It worked.

Btw, for anyone else wondering...I REALLY don't think having the EVAP cannister in the engine bay is gonna be a problem.

 

haha, seriously, i used 2 pliers and started twisting it so the holes would line up. thats all i did. Im in college too, im 18. Im use to improvising, so i just used what i got.

 

FYI:

If you have a multi-meter and want to check your purge solenoid valve:


unplug valve.
DISCONNECT BATTERY!
set multi-meter for ohms(resistance)


Coil resistance = 26 OHM [at 20°C (68°F)]

 

Yep yep. S U R E E N O U G H I'm back here with bad news. I relocated the cannister up to the engine bay with fuel hoses from the store. Made complete sure there was no leaks. Fitted everything according to this DIY and found it to be quite easy. First 40 miles of this were fine. Yeap, (yawn) next thing you know CEL.

GAAAAH! mad.gif

First and foremost, Rd1tib thankyou for providing a complete writeup with full pics.
Second, I found out a bunch of crap from some really experienced mechanics working next to me at work.

1. The evap system is a critical part to the fuel system. It pressurizes the fuel tank and takes harmful toxens out of it into a charcoal box which never has to be emptied. Without it, or with it not functioning properly the car will run lean. Meaning there will be no fuel mixture and the car will use up more fuel without the cannister and valve working together. If the fuel tank is not pressurized, the car will be slower than normal and the gears will not function properly. MT because of the fuel not being sent through the engine properly. AT because of fuel not being sent through the engine properly AND the gears switch based upon gas pressure given through the pedal. No wonder my car was spluttering as if it was dumbstruck. My guy said that you have to have this working to pass emissions and every car has a cannister. These answers I am giving to you all are all real and if they were not happening to me I wouldn't be explaining them here to you. Like I said, everytime I reset my computer the car would not splutter until I about 40 miles down the road again. So it definitely was not a tranny issue, it had to do with the computer being given pressure readings fromn the fuel tank.

After doing this DIY, I noticed AGAIN. I went to pick up some gas tonight and when I unscrewed the gas cap it sucked in pressure! My guy told me that is what happens when something isn't right with the evap system. It can only suck up air, it cannot push it. This must mean it sucks up something fron the wrong fuel line?

I still have a CEL. I checked everything thoroughly. I connected everything JUST like the DIY.

The 2 Purge openings from the cannister can be extended directly from the side of the battery tray to the cannister. The black filter box connects from the gas tank fuel line (hidden in the fenderwall) to the bottom line of the valve. The straight line connects to the blue thing, and the blue thing goes up to the largest opening of the cannister. Plug the valve in and you're all set. CAKE? Tell me i'm right.

SplinterCel has a new alternative. It requires less work than this DIY, just by moving the cannister up and the valve plug up with it. Your show bro.

 

maybe your sensor is bad hkc?
i cant think of any other reason you would be gettin a cel otherwise. its just vacume anyway.

 

d8m i typed up something just down and pressed back on an accident and now i have to rewrite it... mad.gif

I was talking to Andy (Hyundai Engineer) and he said that the canister must not be in the engine bay. Something about the fumes of the gasoline and the fumes from the battery that may cause a fire. MAke sure that you use fuel lines instead of the clear evap lines (eventhough they look better). IT is also illegal,(what andy said) to have the evap lines goign to ur canister.

I have removed my shi7 and plugged it all up together. My car splutters when i run it hard, and my tranny down shifts weird when i stop hard. My gas tank also sucked in air when i had the canister removed up to the top. CEL was also present but was because i had a loose hose.

HKC- I think you should just remove it. When my CEL came on (with the canister relocated) i just removed all the stuff and did the DIY at HP.com and the light disappeared.

 

I have a way easier way guys. Just go buy a full wiring harness, fuel tank, new evap canister, fuel lines, a new ECU and I guess just replace all plugs, relays, and fuses as well. Thats what I did, my cars a 2000 now. Should only take you about 2, maybe 3 months max. No sweat. sad.gif

 

^^you whore...

I need to ask you some stuff about your "2000/rev. A"
Next time you're on AIM hit me up.

 

i have this mod and have never had a problem i guess you guys arent as talented as me.
but really its just a vacume really the vapors that go into this canistor are lil to none so really there will be no fires. fumes from the battery are you serious rd1? lol
i think somone's pulling your leg did they ask you if you ever seen a left handed wrench too?

the only thing that can make your car have a cel is that lil sensor u have to plug back in if u have a cel its because of that sensor and nothing else.

 

naw, this dude is legit. Since the dude work with emissons and everything, he knows what hes talkin about. I take his word straight up.

For the CEL, i just think that there is a loose hose or tubing that need to be tightened some more. Other than that, stuff shoudl be fine.