definately not the easiest, but a good write up nontheless. adding to the listing.

 

I just did this, and found like 3-4 short-cuts that make this waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay easier than first described.

My way:

you only need one 3/4" to 3/4" metal connector...
you don't need to bend the metal support bar AT ALL (it can stay the way it is).
you only need like 3 ft. of tubing total.

I didn't take pictures during this relocation because I was rushed and didn't feel like driving to store for battteries. I can take a final picture...

Not many people are going to be doing this relocation, (I know of HKC, and that's about it).

...so, if you plan on doing this, shoot me a PM and I will walk you through this over the phone or AIM. and I'll take off my front right wheel and take pics/e-mail them to you...

installed picstures coming soon. wink1.gif

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Pics installed (as promised) wink1.gif






Notice the route:



If you remove battery and battery tray, you will see the two fuel lines (thin metal) with rubber hoses attached. Thos rubber hoses go under the car into the driver wheel fender well.

Pull those rubber tubes up through the hole and remove them from the thin metal tubes. ONce you do that use you're 3/8" inch tube you bought to connect to thin metal tubes...
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REMEMBER WHICH LINE GOES WHERE ON THE EVAP CANNISTER. Bigger goes to bigger, smaller goes to smaller...
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...and run them to the EVAP cannister in front of the battery. (hence the NO NEED for metal tube connectors, just clamps). wink1.gif

you only need the ONE metal tube connector for the tube that comes from the EVAP PURGE VALVE (which is still in the fender well, secured w/ zip ties, AND PLUGGED IN..<<VERY IMPORTANT!!).

THen run that rubber tube up from the fender well, around the front of the battery, and onto the MIDDLE PRONG (to PURGE) on the EVAP cannister.

Ta da.


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Notice the metal support bar. NOt bent at all. I used the battery tray as it's support adn some VERY STICKY tape (cutousy of the HALO HID KIT)...thz Uneek. fing02.gif wink1.gif

-patrick

 

very very nice and clean writeup. thanks buddy!!!!

realizing one important result i've noticed, i will leave out what i was going to say and stick right to the point. the point being the AEM not pulling in air because of connecting the wires all together like hp.com and disabling the evap system completely.

i noticed one thing. i have an AEM 3' CAI. it was loud as heck when i had my stock exhaust. so loud you could hear it sucking air in just by putting your ear next to the fender, so loud you could wake up neighbors and hear echos when you gave it some gas. when i installed the bypass valve the sound decreased by a little bit and didn't pull just as hard as it did before... but that was minimal and rather a factor of its own but you could still hear the damn thing and it would still respond. right now i feel as if it's not even there.

when i took out my cannister, yes, it spluttered, meaning my transmission wasn't reading the fuel pressure right so it didn't know which gear to select. i sh*t you not, even with an automatic transmission you would floor it and it would be in like 3'rd gear up a hill at 20mph. then it got worse. on a U-turn, it went from 1st, to 3rd to 1st to 3rd again all under the 2 seconds of holding the gas pedal down. the more gas you have it the higher the gear it went up even if you were just making a U-turn at 3 miles per hour. that's proof that the tank is not pressurized well and the ECU isn't getting good readings.

then, i'd reset my computer and it was better. then when i'd relocate my cannister, it would be better for 1 day, then go bad again. i don't think i relocated my cannister right at all judging by these pictures. THEN the most noticeable factor was when i would feel my car become hellishly slow again, i'd open up my fuel tank and notice a bunch of pressure would spout out as if the tank was overpressurized.

NOW, the most important thing I've noticed even when connecting all of the lines together, even when taking the valve completely out, I cannot hear the CAI and the throttle feels like stock. that means the CAI isn't sucking as much air in as it did before. i cannot hear it when i rev my engine like i used to. some of you may recall me making big fusses about this posting it exactly one year ago this time. but if the CAI doesn't suck air it means lots of HP lost...

so now instead of connecting all of the wires together, i'm going to see if i can get the CAI running like it used to along with the sharp throttle response and high velocity suction back by relocating it according to this DYI. I'll let you guys know.

The reason I'm making a big fuss out of this now, is if it's happened to my Automatic, the 5-speed folks might be losing some good horsepower without knowing it. It also might lead to fuel tank cracking. If i have this problem and i noticed this, it's surely a problem. it's not only my car only.

*This should definitely be a sticky!*

 

<span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%">I AGREE, PLEASE MAKE STICKY! </span> drillsergeant.gif

HKC, I know you're pain bro. Haha, we have had the same problems for 1 year+...it's insane.

But hopefully my EVAP codes (P0446) and all are gone for good.

This DIY is by far the best solution. The only bad thing I can think of is by extending the lines from the purge valve to the cannister you mess with the readings...which I highly doubt affects anything that much.

Otherwise, this is the best solution to rev A tiburons w/ an AEM CAI. You get to KEEP the cannister, keep the purge valve connected and PLUGGED IN, and it's like the car never even knew you moved it.

SImple as that.

HKC, word of advice...

you have been running the EVAP NOT INSTALLED for how long?
YOU made the remark about over-pressurized gas tank in your car (I never noticed for the two months I had mine removed)..but since YOU said this here's my 0.02:

just to be safe...get the dealership to check out your gas tank. ...FOR FREE! Here's how:

Our cars have a re-call on them (three actually) for gas cap, gas tank, and child seat restraints/hooks). NOTE: only the RD2's had the exhaust manifold recall. SOOooooooooooo....

go to dealership and ask them to do the recalls. (which includes inspecting gas tank). If you already got the recalls done (I'm sure you have)...and they have you on record...just b**** and complain that you never got it done and how if your car explodes your sueing Hyundai for billions of dollars, blah, blah, blah...I'm a dirty tramp. lmao.gif

Go to a far away dealership maybe? shrug.gif

G'luck w/ relocation, and hit me up anytime with questions. I got this DIY known like the back of my hand. wink1.gif
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I also want to make this clear:


This is a FILTER, not just a black thingy to hold up the rubber tubes. Make sure to leave this installed and clamped...

fing02.gif

 

^ what would i do without you. dancing.gif

 

Guys, all these cars are made the same.

Meaning, if you do it the HP.com CORRECTLY, you won't have any sputtering, CELs, or issues at all for that matter. There's been lots of people who have done it without problems, myself included. If you experience sputtering and/or CELs after the relocation method you did something wrong. Period.

 

zoned, HKC was talking about spuutering after the "removal" method. Not the "relocation" method....

relocation works, removal doesn't. drillsergeant.gif

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^ I agree with that, casue i recently removed it again and found it spluttering again.

I heard from a Hyundai guy named Andy that it is illegal to have my pipes clear and that the canister so close to the engine. They have to be like 1 feet or somthign away from engine because of the fumes and stuff.

 

shit I never thought about that....

what fumes thoguh, if everything is sealed down tightly and there are no leaks it should be fine...

I just did this the other day so I'll see how things go and update the thread with feedback and maybe more in depth pics.

I don't have to worry about the "laws" cuz there are NO emissions where I'm at right now. BUt the idea of gas fumes in my engine bay scares me. sad.gif

 

yeah, but i dont think you shoudl trip about it. i had a leaky battery and the plugs at the canister were loose too, and like it neva exploded for those couple weeks lmao.gif . haha . Oh yeah. loose connection= CEL.