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DIY: The "Big 3" wire upgrade

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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 06:55 PM
  #71  
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So then you got rid of the original wire from alt to battery positive? or have both connected?
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 07:12 PM
  #72  
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Its gone. But my battery is also in the back.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 08:36 PM
  #73  
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I would definitely keep the stock wiring (unless you're moving your battery or something). If you read all the posts, it's pretty clear - leave the stock wiring. End of story.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 12:47 AM
  #74  
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I read it all but I wasn't sure.

It just seemed like there wasn't a 100% positive either way and I didn't want to screw anything up.

I will make sure to keep the original wire thanks.
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 06:01 PM
  #75  
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why engine bblock to chasis ground?
and all this talk aout not toucing the stock wiring, if ur implying that cutting it, replacing it, then leaving it there thats just plain stupid
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 08:16 PM
  #76  
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The engine block to chassis ground allows current to flow from the electrical devices on the engine (starter motor, injectors, sensors, etc) to the battery negative easier, via a nice beefy chassis ground. Without that, we're basically relying on two or three small guage ground wires which are connected around the engine. One on the alternator, and then I believe one on the I/M and one on the engine/tranny. Current relying on these wires have a long path and high resistance relative to a nice beefy dedicated engine ground.
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 08:36 PM
  #77  
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^^ Don't forget spark plugs, they're directly grounded to the engine block. Putting a beefier ground to the engine block allows current to pass more easily through the spark plugs, getting more spark from them, resulting in better power and more efficient fuel consumption (minimal, but still there)
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 10:05 PM
  #78  
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The alternator is the ground to the spark plugs. It's connected to the engine. The idea is to upgrade these wires for better efficiency outside the engine for systems like the ECU and others which help the engine run. If the alternator is running near it's limit then you will be using power from the battery to run the spark plugs.
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 10:35 PM
  #79  
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^^^One word... bottleneck. This has been proven to help, I've done it, so have numerous other people. To paraphrase "Broken Arrow" it's been done enough that there is a recognized term for it. The three above me are bang on as well.
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 12:07 AM
  #80  
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Don't get me wrong. I upgraded all of my grounds with 2awg wire. I added a voltage stablizer and a cap to my electrical system too. It's just not for the spark plug ground. They're the most grounded electrical item in the car. It helps with other systems.

The spark plugs are grounded to the engine which is the source of ground for the car when the engine is running. The battery is just connected to it. The spark plugs loop electrically from engine ground to spark gap, spark wire, through the coil, spark wire, spark gap, back to engine ground. The coil is stimulated by the ECU which is what we're trying to get more power to.
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