Nice! I think we got it finally. If Shadohh is around, give us your opionion. You are the one to first notice the need to address this issue. Good job people! laugh.gif:

 

**Update**

Sorry for double posting, but you should all know that simply removing the fuse for the alternator WILL NOT WORK! I tried this last night and strange things where happening, ie: no interior lighting, no door bell, tail lights but no brake lights. Probably numerous other things, but I didn't want to wait to find out! So, I put the fuse back in and cut and taped the lead going from the fuse box to the battery, fused the Big wire from the Alt to the bat with one 100 amp circuit breaker and all seems to be fine now. I have no idea why one fuse (supposedly for the atlernator) would cause such termoil with other electrical components. Hopefully this is the end of the Big 3 wire dilema.

 

I guess I missed the last couple messages because I was out of town. I'm not sure why everybody seems so intent on removing the original wires, because like I said it does no good. Maybe I should edit my original post to add that.

 

... following this thread, i had time today to do something similar to my tibby's battery. here is a little *tribute*



i always like big cable wiring under the hood tongue.gif
i used a new engine noise filter (90A - 120A of peaks) to filter everything, but it was only a test to see if it was working well or not..



i used a power distribution block with voltmeter (always on - current drained not relevant) and a grounding dristibution block.


all power & grounding cables are 35mm^2 (4GA i think, the diameter is about 15mm) - and the one used to go into the trunk is (8GA)

i used few of this gold plated 8GA connector


..and a few more smaller distrib. blocks like this one because i have too many wires more than the stock ones (HID kit, additional power cable to the trunk, car alarm and so on..)


now look this last pic:



after finishing i had the last doubt on one wire:
omfg.gif and that one is a ground or not !?!?
i'm talking about the green wire joined with the brown one. both covered in black .

now it is connected to the ground to be to the safe side and i have no problem, it seems that everything is working fine.. but the doubt remain..

Given that i think that wire is an oem/stock wire, every tibby should have this one,please, can someone check if those one are really a ground (if you found them...)

Thanks wink1.gif

 

^ Wow! I'm glad you know what you're doing mate... That shizz looks like a bomb to me! lol

 

Does that noise filter actually help? What kind of problems were you having? Speaker whine? Looks interesting.

I'm removing the stock power wire. There's no reason for it to be there when I'm using new power wire 2x as thick. Nothing wrong with leaving it in place, but there's no compelling reason to if you're willing to redo a bit of harness.

Don't use circuit breakers, uses fuses. I'm using a TIFF ANL fuseholder and 100amp fuse. Circuit breakers do not provide reliable protection. And they are sensitive to the temperature under the hood as well, so when you're driving on a hot summer day they can easily be tripped.

My ground setup is a simple 4ga in x four 8ga out. I'm going to put a new ground strap from engine to chassis as well. And add one from exhaust to chassis while I'm at it, can't hurt.

4ga is more than adequate for the stock alternator power wire.

 

I'm really liking the way that looks. Also wondering how much the noise filter helps though. I will be doing this mod soon, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

well, the filter was new for me too...
because i have a Pioneer DEH-P9000R (0..40 volume range) as source, after finished my stereo system (especially the part inside the trunk with my Macrom Amps etc.) i tryed everything to solve the alternator noise on speakers. The noise was not really noticeable at low rpm, but it was increasing as much as many things (fog lights, A/C , undercar neon...) you were turning on.
So that i tryed first with 2 ground loop isolators for both front & rear PreOut lines and this was the best definitive solution. After that i discovered this (90A) filter for the +12DC that should filter *for sure* any alternator interferences everywhere, but honestly the difference is not so much sensible (maybe because i have the ground loop isolators yet filtering).
I tryed first to use this filter in a friend car who was getting crazy with the same problem (noise on speaker) and i can say if you don't have any other kind of filter, this one alone will work as weel as a couple of ground isolators, in my case using both simply means stay to the safe side..

p.s i misundertood about the wire size. i used a special balanced pure copper wire which is 35 square millimeters and i think it should be bigger than 4GA (more close to the 0GA size which should be 53 squared millimeters)... and the little one going to the trunk is 4GA.. excuse me but it's a real big mess for me comparing U.S. measures with European ones.. lmao.gif

 

http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tibstock1...eb1.jpg&.src=ph
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tibstock1...726.jpg&.src=ph
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tibstock1...2ae.jpg&.src=ph
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tibstock1...2bf.jpg&.src=ph
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tibstock1...8bd.jpg&.src=ph
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tibstock1...3c6.jpg&.src=ph
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tibstock1...9fe.jpg&.src=ph

I've done it slightly different: ground kit, not big 3 yet. Grounding the alternator, coil packs, air intake manifold, transmission. Everything is attached to a distributor block fixed on the radiator grill that have a wire going to the B- and chassis.

 

nice wiring! i think i will plug to some more grounding point too...
this was my last add..

it may seems complicate but in this way i have only 1 positive cable for disconnect everything (and not thousand of wires like before)

i tryed to put the main (+12DC) cable under a 60A fuse (not for need, just for opportunity) but it was not enough... the fuse popped quickly.. i forget to think at the peak of current when you start the engine.. so i'm looking for a 120A fuse... but this pictures is close to what it will be at the end.. after few more gounding points wink1.gif