mannyr

I like to pass this on. Because The dealer wanted to charge $800 to replace the whole evap system and most times your local mechanic has no idea how to troubleshoot the evap system and will tell you have a blown evap canister that clog the system. For a long time I was having problem filling up my tank. The car will only take $1 dollar of gas at a time and the pump will click and spill/vomit gas if you get OBDII code PO441 THRU PO446 small and large evap leak. Most likely you are havin the same problem. This what causes it there is a small electrical valve by the fuel filter. This Valve(PCV:purge control valve) is basically a small solenoid that opens and closes when the computer tells it there is too much pressure in the tank and evaporation canister. If this malfunctions and it looks itself closed it will not allow the gases and air to flow thru your tank and it will raise the floater in your tank causing the the gas station fuel gun to stop or click. This is not your pcv valve that you find attach to your intake manifold that valve is a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve see the difference same initial different meaning. So now that you know what pcv im referring to If this solenoid stays open at all times it will do the oposite and give you rough iddle problems. There is also a problem with the hoses that attach to the evap. canister in by the back of the driver side tire. There is a TSB on this. These hoses tent to break up inside causing pieces of it to be send into the valve and causing the valve to malfunction.
The worst part about this is that Hyundai instead of doing a recall asked its manufacturer for the PCV to put a small screen filter in front of it. So if this happends you remove the hoses from the PCV valve and clean it out. But of course they wont tell you this. How do I know this? Because when i bouth a new original valve it had the removable meshed filter in front of them

I will give you several options

THE RIGHT COMPLETE WAY if you dont know what im talking about do not attemt this you dont know what your getting your self into
you will need a new pcv valve that you can get from ebay here http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=hyundai+t...v&_osacat=0 or from the dealer the part number is 2891022040
3 feet of 1/2 fuel line hose
3 feet of 1/4 fuel line hose
1 foot of 1/8 fuel line hose
optional (new fuel filter as you will be working in the area and might as well replace the fuel filter
you can re-use your clamps or buy new clamps for those hoses
First -locate your PCV valve Purge control valve in your hood attached to the line that goes to the fuel filter it is a small plastic conical shape piece with a hose coming out of each end take a mental note or picture and notice how is it position as you want to keep it the same way. with a pair of pliers slide down the clamps and disconect the hoses. Pull out the metal clip and remove the electrical conector
price $100-150
time about 2 hours

Second- Jack your back driver side or put car up on ramp or most preferly a lift try. You will find a black box with a strap that holds it in the middle, unbolt the straps and your evaporation canister will fall out. Pull out the U clip retainer from the electrical conector and disconect it you will see 2 hoses attached to the open and close valve of the evap canister slide the clip and remove and unplug them only from the evap canister side. At this point your evap canister should be completly off at this point you want to check the open and close valve on the canister by applying 12v on and off to the electrical conector you should see the solenoid move. spray some throtle body cleaner or sea foam to clean it out a bit. Now with the hoses hanging from the the car measure the hoses and cut the the 1/4 and 1/2 fuel hose lines that purchased replace the hoses and clamp.

Third- Before you connect the hoses back to the evap canister you want to blow out the hoses with pressuise air from a compressor. as you blow thru one of the hoses you will hear the tank bubble. once you blow to the other one you will hear air come out out of the front by PCV valve. Now plug the hoses back in to the evap canister and plug back in the open/close valve attached to the evap canister.

Fourth- change out your fuel filter since your in the area you might as well get to it

fifth - size and cut the hoses that are atached to the pcv valve with the 1/8 hose replace and reclamp everthing make sure you install the valve the same way you originally took out the valve has an arroow

than reset your computer or clear out you OBDII code no more

THE NEXT OPTION is to do the same thing without replacing any of the hoses but just unpluging them as i described above just blowing them out with air and replacing the PCV valve or attemting to clean out the valve by spraying it with sea foam or throtle body cleaner and applying 12 v to valve on and off to get it to get unclog

THE LAST OPTION is to just replace your valve and hope that your hoses are fine and it was just a bad valve

At the time I did this i was not a member of this site therefore i never took pics but hopefully someone can re-post this and with pics included

Jmans

Very nice DIY, I just finished taking apart my car and I was wondering what that valve was, now I know. I have the exact problem you described (not being able to fill up at the pump) and I'm extremely grateful for this, hopefully I'll be able to get in and out at the pump once more!

HyundaiKitCoupe

i knew if it was messed up, rerouted, or clogged, it tells the computer naughty things!

my question is how can you test if the solenoid actually working. the solenoid on 1996-some 1998 models is located behind the driver's bumper/fender. all the rest have them relocated to the back of the car when Hyundai realized people were putting in CAIs. Also, do not forget the purge valve. it's a $40 part that is located on the fuel purge line that somehow goes into your manifold. it is located right above the fuel filter bottom of driver's strut tower on all tiburon models. this can be replaced, but not necessary. "don't fix it if it 'aint broken" are the words to go by.

to order parts, go to:
http://www.hyundaipartsonline.com
very, very very good service, got all my rare parts all 20+ times.

mannyr

hyundaikitcup, I think your confused the purge PCV= PURGE CONTROL VALVE by the fuel filter, is the one I am reffering to. Very simple to test that solenoid you get yourself self a set of electrical clips with wire that looks like a mini jumper cable you remove the valve and give it
12 volts on an off you will hear the solenoid activate and if you look into the tube you will see it move. If you decide you want to clean out the valve instead of replacing it. You would do this on an off while spraying carburator cleaner or seafoam and blowing it out with compressed air.
I will take a pic later and post it but the part number is 28910 22040 valve-purge control

Jmans

Posting now to add to the knowledge base, since I just got done working on the evap system in my car.

1. Please Please Please! Check your Purge Control Valve first. Pictures have already been posted of where to find it. Unplug it, hook it up to some power (I used alligator clips and a 9v battery) and see if it clicks. If it does, it's good, if not, replace it. Had I done this first, it would've saved me 4 hours of monkeying around.

2. The evap canister is very easy to get to, but a lot of the hoses are much harder to get to. If you've got the time, I'd recommend removing the gas tank to get to all of the hoses. They're a major pain to get to otherwise. Wait till your gas tank is almost empty, support it well (I'd recommend two jacks and a few boards) and lower it a little at a time, getting all the connections off. This seems excessive, but it helps a lot, especially if you're going to replace all of the lines.

3. Diagram Diagram Diagram! Mark out where all the hoses go, label them, do whatever you have to do to make sure it all goes back where it came from! Even a little mis-routing can leave things FUBAR'ed.

4. If you've been having trouble filling up, make sure to leave the evap canister unhooked long enough to let it evaporate some of the fuel that's stuck in it. I'd recommend hooking up an air supply to one end and letting it run for a while, to get everything cleaned out real well.

BlueRD2

+1 to checking you purge valve first, that too would of saved me some time.

I did basically everything you said when I had problems with mine and it worked perfectly.

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b1gb4ll3r

i have the same problem 4 past few months. i checked the evap canister not the purge control valve. gonna do that now. put some electricity 2 it n c if it works properly or not.

Jmans

Remember, if it's your purge control valve that's gone bad then replacing it won't immediately fix your issue, it's gonna take a little while for it to vacuum out the backed up gas in the evap canister.

b1gb4ll3r

a lil while being how long?

Jmans

Can't really be sure, I've driven about 50 miles since I cleared my codes and they haven't come back, so it may be a more immediate result than I thought.