Ok ok your confusing a few different voltage readings.


the time that 44 was dead was with the old ecu, now its not dead its got 5volts.

8-9 volts was in between pin 44 of the ecu and pin 3 of the MFI relay.

I wasnt testing anything to ground when i said 8-9 volts

and when i said that about the 3 pin of the MFI relay having voltage that was just a 6-12-24 voltage light reading from pin 3 of the relay to the ground.

better?

Damn, shit god dammit.

We went to auburn pick and pull and we found an elantra with the complete engine, nearly untouched.

Started taking off the valve cover and the guy who works for the place comes up behind us and says

You guys gotta go, theres a big storm on the way.

I said "wow dude we just got to this car i really really need this camshaft, itll only take us 2 minutes to get it off, literally."

He said, " too bad, get out."

i was like are you fvcking serious? i live 50 miles away!

he didnt care.

.............

Good news? There are at least 4 beta 1 elantras, just got there, damn near EVERYthing is still there. If anyone needs anything post in this topic im about to post and tell me.

 

Okay, just humor me here while I restate the painfully obvious...and make some Educated wild azz Guesses.

ECU Pin 44 Voltage 5V
Wire 3 Voltage @ Camshaft Position Sensor. 5V
Right. So....ECU is 100% good. NO issues with ECU or wiring.


Pin 3 on MFI relay is giving you 3-4V That's where the problem is. We've been chasing the wrong rabbit.

Login to HMA and do the test to verify the proper operation of the MFI relay. It sounds like it's gone all wonky.

 

Im on it cappin...

If this is right ill have a camshaft for sale! lol lmao.gif

~EDIT~ Whoa HMA happens to be down. Do you know how to check it random?

project might need to sit on the backburner while i go to Jersey but itll be there when i get back.

 

I've got an Hyundai electrical manual, but it's burried in boxes from the move still.

HMA should be back up soon (we hope)

 

Its all good, we have to wait till tuesday anyway cuz hes up here in jersey with me for my birthday

 

Ok, Heres an update.

Pulled the MFI relay out. HMA service says to check the continuity between pin 3-5 and 1-5. When de-energized, meaning pin 2 is not hooked to a 12v positive and pin 4 is not hooked up to ground, across both sets of pins (3-5 & 1-5) should have infinate resistance

After incorrectly testing the MFI relay upside down (thanks hyundai for not denoting which side was up)

I tested 1-5 and it showed infinite resistance, i also tested 3-5 and it tested infinate resistance.

When energized, meaning positive 12V connected to pin 2 and negative on pin 4, 1-5 and 3-5 showed 0 ohms of resistance.

So its not the MFI relay itself. But the connector also has a trouble shooting section.

Hma says to bridge across 2-5 and hook that wire up to the positive end of a multimeter while running the negative side to a ground to test the voltage delivery of the MFI relay, it should read battery voltage; which it did, i got 11.76volts. There was a humming noise coming from what sounded like the engine bay when i connected these wires though, i thought maybe it could be something fuel related in the engine bay or maybe my ears were decieving me and it was the fuel pump (we do have a GSX pump in there)

ANY WAY the harness is not cleared yet. there is one more trouble shooting procedure that i cant quite figure out since the diagram is fuxored. Ill post it and you guys can take a look at it to see if it makes any sense. In the meantime ill try to figure it out.



i think it shows positive probe on multimeter going to pin 4 on the MFI connector, the negative probe on the multimeter going to ground. Then a wire connecting pin 27 of the ECU going to ground. And im assuming im testing for continuity.

Tell me if im crazy.

if the picture is too small go to HMAsevice.com, login go to service information, select hyundai tiburon 2001 2.0L. then hit search and type in MFI relay, then click on description and inspection. im on #2 of the connector test.


or go to this link if it works

http://www.hmaservice.com/index.jsp?SSOSES...O%2Fi7TwfO5nto8

Click ME

 

Ok posting in selinas name to separate things since nobody else has posted

I started the car for the first time in a week, same deal, P0343 for a few minutes, joined by P0136 and P0131 later on, i believe the O2 sensor is fouling with all the shitty combustion caused by the CMP not giving fuel at the right times.

Then of course, where you have bad injector timing made worse by a fouling 02 sensor, you will have misfire. P0300, P0303, P0301. Im so used to CEL codes ive got about 14 codes memorized lol

This isnt new news, a few days before i went to jersey it did this, which had selina pretty broken up; but i know its all just a side effect of the friggin CMP sensor code.

NEW NEWS

another round of retesting leaves a little reiteration, going to use some shorthand because if youve been paying attention your used to it.

Inside car

3-mfi -> ground = battery voltage
pin44-ecu -> ground = +5V
3-mfi -> pin 44 = 8-9v

MFI relay tests, passed. Harness, 1/2 passed, cant figure out what to do on the second one.

**Tried something different.**

3-MFI -> unattached wire that USED to connect to pin 44 = battery voltage.

WTF? that means the old pin 44 wire is grounding out? the other end of the wire ISNT touching anything.

Dont know if that means anything but its something.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

I joked about it when this all started, but im getting more serious as this progresses. Im thinking about ripping out the ECU and everything it goes to. Lighting it on fire and going Haltech.

Reasons?

It would be done the right way for turbo.

I could go back to 1 rail.

Selina could sell the spacer kit as its unused technically

I wouldnt have to see P0343 on her car again.

Selina is registering her car in florida anyway.

Reasons not?

expensive, lot of wireing.

Not as time efficient as fixing it (assuming their is a fix that could be found quickly)

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>3-mfi -> ground = battery voltage
pin44-ecu -> ground = +5V
3-mfi -> pin 44 = 8-9v

MFI relay tests, passed. Harness, 1/2 passed, cant figure out what to do on the second one.

**Tried something different.**

3-MFI -> unattached wire that USED to connect to pin 44 = battery voltage.

WTF? that means the old pin 44 wire is grounding out? the other end of the wire ISNT touching anything.</div>

That seems to indicate that that old wire is grounding out against SOMETHING. However, since you've bypassed that wire, and hard-wired a NEW wire, it shoudln't matter. Famous last words.

I'd try to figure out where that old wire is grounding out. does it give continuity to the negative battery terminal? Frame?

You should be able to see an occolating signal from the Cam Position sensor. If you feed it 5V and feed it ground, the signal wire should put out an occiolating signal while the engine is running. (I know, crappy spelling).

From the way I read the diagrams, the MFI relay should NOT be putting out 8-9V/battery voltage. Did you ever check that on another car? The MFI relay should be accepting a signal IN, not putting voltage OUT.

I'm going to washington this weekend, but I'll try to give you a call.

 

i have this car now @ my house trying to figure it out


i got the car with no idea how bad this was going to be

i spent 4 hours just looking over crap yesterday and nother 5 hours today trying to put stuff back together


there are random wires cut everythwere with spade connectors on them... some are bare some are not


soem wires under the ecu cap were crushed and pinched in teh ecu and the cap.... fixed that...

put in the other cam signal sensor since the first one that was on there was all cut up and i couldnt figure out which wire was what

so now i redid the wire going to pin 44 on the ecu

the cam sensor is supposed to get 12v not 5 but 12... if you look at the hyundai harnass inpection diagram it says it should be getting battery voltage


the MFI relay is switched on by the ecu (the ecu grounds out this relay)

this relay then sends a battery voltage wire to the sensors in its circuit... so it is supposed to be 12-13.8v

so i rewired everything and got the car started... it ran sorta fine for a minute then started to misfire badly... and it has alot of exhaust leaks which makes it hard to track down stuff like the vacuum leaks if found


i really have no idea what im going to have to do to get this thing to work... the harnass thats in teh car is all hacked to shit and i cant for the life of me figure out why... the alarm installation is all fubar

 

just be sure to check if the terminals weren't interchanged

ie: idle motor to cam sensor
knock sensor to cam sensor...

stuff like that..
i know i told Alex and Selina to check this first but sometimes just the fact a new person is working on the car the problem might aprear to be very easy

BTW, is the smt6 installed on this car?