Alex01tib

~~~OK Update~~~

Selina overnighted the ecu to me last night and i got it today, plugged it in and it didnt help one bit as far as the code is concerned and it ran the exact same. with a few differences

Yesterday when i switched the wire that goes to pin 44 on the ecu and the wire that goes to pin 3 on the MFI the car ran the same, today i tried it and it wouldnt even start like that, which is good i guess

Also, today i took a multimeter to the wires and each of the wires have less than .8 ohms of resistance.

The wire that goes to pin 3 of the MFI relay read 12volts, which is good because HMA says it should read battery voltage

The wire that goes to pin 44 of the ecu read 4.98 volts, which it should because HMA says it should read 0-5V as most sensor signals do. This is an advancement over yesterday when the old ecu didnt show any voltage out of pin 44.

BUT THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE

The only thing left to change is the Camshaft. I really didnt want to change the camshaft because then i would have to worry about the timing. One thing left that doesnt inlcude changing the camshaft but does include the camshaft.

HMA recomends in the trouble shooting section that you check the timing. what would i check for?

Also they recomend to check if the dowel pin of the camshaft is locked or not, if it isnt then to lock it, What the hell are they talking about? i had the valve cover off and didnt see any pin by the magnet..

MAN if i change the camshaft and the problem is still there ima shoot myself lol cuz this car is possessed or something.

P0343--> nutkick.gif <--- Me





OOO

OOO

OK i just checked something else, HMA trouble shooting recomends you test the voltage in between the wire out of pin 2 and pin 3 on the CMP sensor harness

Normally the voltage should range between 0 and 5 volts

Mine read in between 8 and 9 volts

this is most likely what they mean by high input. Although i dont know what to do. This is with my sensor which i know to be good. I can try it with selinas sensor but im 86.4% sure itll do the same thing.

Any-thoughts?

REDZMAN

What does it say on their troubleshooter that you are supposed to do if that's bad?

SwiftTiburon

It says if the voltage is not between 0 and 5 volts to put a new cam sensor in, clear the code, and make sure the signals are within normal range.

All it really says is to test the ground signals, fix if necessary, or clean the sensor, etc etc. and if all else fails put a new ecu in.

Its retarted and most of this has been done and its still not right.

Damn it, I just want this car to be fixed.. 02.gif

REDZMAN

Hmm, I just reread this and you did a LOT of work on that sucker all at once.

Check these and let me know.

1. Grounds. Did you reattach them all and are they in good shape?

2. Wiring. You said you checked it once, check it one more time really close up and see if anything is crimped and hitting another bare wire or something.

3. You said it's the CEL for the cam position sensor right? Not the CRANK position sensor? Are there any wires pinched or stuck near the airram?

I also just did some google searching and found this on NT.

P0343 Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 – high input Wiring short to positive, CMP sensor, ECM

So I'm starting to lean even further to the crushed wires you were talking about before maybe. Can you swap part of the wiring harness?

Have you called the dealer for some advise?

Viper966

the 5v output comes from the ecu... but u changed it.. so the problem is somewhere else, its probably with the grounds

SOCKS_old

SHYT. lemme think about this one.. I had the EXACT same problem.. it wont idle at ALL right?? u have to give it about 10% throttle, and will only idle at like 2200rpms?? am i close? everytime i went to give it gas, it would either die, stumble on itself for ever, and then die.. if its same problem, dont mess with anything like cam, replacing sensors, etc.

is the TPS sensor set? just try it and make sure u have it set up. just for funnys.. i had to reset mine after the winter (my battery died) and it was a similar throttle problem.

god damnit, i cant think of what i did to fix my problem. it was identical, i have airram, bbtb and turbo.. so its gotta be the same thing..

if its just the pushing the gas problem, i would say tps, cuz u probably reset your ECU or had battery unplugged when you did the wiring and stuff, which would reset your TPS settings inside the SMT-6.

i struggled with this problem for about 4 days, then plugged in the laptop, set the tps and it was all fine..

i dont know if this will work cuz u have the sensor CEL, but i did this with a CEL, not knowing which one it was.

albert

Okay, you've done a lot of work, and done a lot of troubleshooting, but you've missed some fairly obvious points.

What is the voltage across the pins @ the ECU? If the ECU is putting out significantly higher voltage than HMA says, that means one of two things. #1. ECU toast. #2. you've got the wrong PIN on the ECU. (or #3... HMA is Farking WRONG...which it frequently is. Check the pin's/wires on several other cars of that gen just to be 100% sure HMA is right)

If the ECU is putting out the right voltage, the problem is the wiring. I know you ran new wires and did it all right...but if the ECU has the right voltage...and the wires don't... the problem is the wires.

my fear/worry is that sending 8-9V down the Cam Position sensor wire to the ECU would fry the circuit for Cam position sensing/recording. Be very careful which ECU you hookup, you don't want to fry the ECU for YOUR car or a buddy's car while you are testing.

DTN

^^^ sounds like a resistance issue to me. alot of times 12V is the output, but then it gets resisted down to 5V by the sensor, or that's the ammount of voltage across the sensor. Make sure that you are either reading across the sensor and not just to ground if that's what it says. Also, it could be that there is a wire out of place, or the connector has gone bad. Check to make sure that all connections are clean. If connections are not clean, use Q-Tips and isopropyl rubbing alcohol to clean them out. Spray with compressed air to remove most of the alcohol, then allow 5 minutes on a hot day to dry before attempting to reconnect

alot of the time it's just two wires making contact with grease or something that was spilled. sometimes it will look like part of the plastic even. When it comes to electronics, cleanliness is next to godliness

Alex01tib

Alright ill respond to these in order

Redz,

1) I thought that there was only one ground for this sensor, which is the ground from the sensor harness to ecu pin 6. but to make sure i didnt mess up any ground i only tapped into the pin 6 existing ground line for the black wire from the sensor. Also ive talked to brian about the ground that hooks up to the intake manifold and he suggested that i move the ground away from the intake manifold and move it to somewhere on the engine block as the air-ram may have been isolated by the phenolic spacer (which some simple testing had confirmed it wasnt isolated, but i decided to move the ground anyway)

I remembered that on the BIG 3 wire upgrade DIY they said that bolt in the front of the engine that has a wierd looking piece of metal on it that nobody knew what it was there for was a really solid ground (which i tested and confirmed) so i hooked it up there and it didnt help.

2) ive actually checked the wiring a lot for continuity, resistance (.8ohms or less each time) and whether it was grounding out or not and it wasnt, but as ive grown acustomed to doing everything more than once ill do it again just to make sure.

3) You kinda answered your own question there lol.

4ish) I have bypassed the harness but i havent done it with the new ecu so ill give that a shot i suppose. but i have to use selinas sensor if i bypass the harness, so without chopping up my wiring in my car i cant test selinas sensor in my car. and without chopping up the wiring in my sensor (which works 100%) i cant bypass the harness with my sensor. but i did test the harness for continuity and the wiring is still intact but i havent taken a resistance reading on the harness, ill do that in like 2 minutes tho.

SOCKS,

nah man its not like that, it idles fine. Its just in sllllooooowwww motion when you hit the gas, when you give it WOT it accelerates like your only giving it 10% throttle on a normal car. Its doing this because the injector timing is off. But once you get above a certain RPM the ecu goes to non sequential injector timing and the car will accelerate ok past that, like if i accelerate the engine to three grand and then hit the gas it accelerates more normally then if i am at idle or 1200 and hit the throttle.

Also i dont have the SMT-6 hooked up yet, selina is actually going to have IDA automotive (SMT-6 dealer) install and dyno tune her SMT-6.

Random,

i know i have the right pin because i tested the old wires for continuity, one end of the multimeter to a wire i cut that used to connect to the harness by the sensor, and one end to the wires that were cut at the ecu. and it beeped and gave me a reading of less than an ohm, which leads me to believe the problem wasnt the wiring to begin with, i might reconnect the stock wiring and try out them with the new ecu.

Which leads me to this, if it is a fried ecu then it doesnt make sense because i put a new ecu in it with no change. it wasnt my ecu it was an ecu redz had sent to us that was working fine.

I will test out my car's readings to make sure that the car reads 0-5 volts when everything is running fine

DTN,

Sorry didnt see your post

yah the way im testing the wires is across the 2 and 3 pin of the harness, which are the two non-ground wires.

About the connections ill post up the pictures of way that im connecting these wires, its real solid. i have slide connects fully soldered to the wires with heat shrink covering every part of the connection that isnt sliding into the other side, as stated ill post up pictures.

But i will check the wires again.

*I really appreciate everyones help. and keep the comments/ideas coming, even if its totally off base it might end up making me look at the thing that fixes it*

OOO

OOO

OK great news i guess

I tested the voltage between the mfi relay wire and the pin 44 wire at the ecu and it ranged in between 0-5v at the same time that the voltage was ranging between 8-9volts at the sensor, so we know the problem is wiring, apparently one of the wires must have been damaged, ill try to reconnect the stock wires and see if that does it.

thats good news right random? lol

albert

You say you verified the right ECU PIN via continuity... If you had mashed/manged wireing..you might have 2 or 3 (or more, depending on what you mangled) wires all with continuity.

Still need to verify voltage out of the ECU. IS the ECU putting out 5V or 12V or 8-9V?

Resistance may be low, but the signal could still be crossing 2-3-5 wires. In multistrand wire, as long as one strand has a connection end to end, you can get some redicilusly low resistance rates on (low load resistance) tests on what is, in reality, a totally f'ed up wire.