Well i had tested the voltage on the ecu side and it gave me it ranging in between 0 and 5 volts like i had said in my last post (i ended up editing it in there while you were typing so you didnt see it), so i figured the probelm was the wires, i hooked up the stock wires on the ecu and the sensor and it read in between 8 and 9 volts. Baffled i tried, 1 by 1 returning the lines to the way they were when i got the correct reading reconnecting the battery each time i changed a wire and starting it and testing the voltage, got 7-9 for voltages even when i returned it to the configuration i had when i had got 0-5 before.

So apparently the voltage at the ecu is also 8-9ish, but ive yet to test out what the voltage should be on my car.

ill update.

OH and random about what you were saying

On HMA it says the sensor signal wire goes to pin 44 on the ecu, and its red. I counted up to pin 44, in the correct way, and it lead me to a red wire, the only red wire i had seen in the pin out, i cut it and tested it for continuity with the wire coming out of pin 2 on the harness, and it confirmed continuity with a low resistance. the red wire didnt look multistranded at the ecu BUT

I noticed where the stock wire is that goes from pin 2 of the sensor (red) has an outside wire to it, kinda hard to explain, like it has an inside wire that is like 18 gauge, that connected to the sensor, and a little upstream toward the ecu the wire had an outside coating that made it look like a bigger gauge wire, but if you peeled back the rubber there was bare wire wrapped all around the red wire, but when i cut the stock red wire the wire that was around it wasnt touching anything and at the ecu there was no sign of this outer coating.

Im lost man... blowup.gif

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OK update, could be good i guess..

I tested the voltage over the 2 wires on my car and got the same 8-9 volt reading.

Which means the ecu's not giving out a fvcked up voltage, but it also means i dunno what the fvck to do next

 

Theres got to be something else that can be done. Im really frustrated and upset that nothing is helping this car to run right. I need a miracle.

or

I think we may need an exorcist.

 

Well, backtrack it mang. Again, you installed ALL of that stuff and then had a problem. It came from the install, you know that. Uninstall it all?

 

No u see it ran fine for 1 day with the airram and bbtb, so i know its not that. The thing that immediatly preceded this was extending the idle air actuator wires, which ill undo tomarrow.

then stab myself in the eye with a soldering iron when it doesnt work. lol.

 

Okay, I think you need to clairify a few points.

What is the voltage from the ECU on the 2 pin outs? (One should be power out (5V) one should be signal IN (0V)). Proceed no farther until you check this and verify it.

If the voltage at the sensor is 8-9V..then you KNOW the problem is in your wiring. I don't care what wiring you did, redid, triple checked and diped in gold. If you've got 5V @ the ECU and 8-9 V @ the sensor...your problem is in your wiring.

If your ECU is putting out 8-9V...then you know you either have the wrong pin, or your ECU is bad.
Check other Tiburons of your year to verify cam position sensor voltage at the sensor, AND at the ECU.



Lastly...and i know this is gonna frost your butt. Check, Check again, Triple check and QUADRUPLE check all other wiring around the Intake manifold. That means injectors, Cam position sensor, coil packs, AC wiring, (going from memory what all is back there), TPS sensor, Idle air Bypasss sensor, etc...etc..


As an ABSOLUTE LAST RESORT.. Start unplugging sensors/devices in the engine compartment, but watch the voltage @ the Cam Position sensor. See if unplugging/replugging any sensor/connector alters the high voltage signal at the Cam position sensor. If it does...you know which wires are crossed, it's just a matter of finding out HOW.


My gut still tells me you mixed up the wires from the Cam Position Sensor with the Idle Air Bypass motor, but without being there in person, I can't verify that.

 

Redz as you said in my thread I made..Yes, we definitely know about that magnet. Bryan told us thats what might have went bad. But from what I know we didnt touch the cams. But tools were everywhere in the engine bay.

Alex is going to be on in a few hours because hes at work now, so hell probably say something about that; but before then he just told me to deliver a quick message.

I cant directly quote him but Ill try:

"I tested the voltage across the ECU and it was the same voltage as it is on the Cam sensor..8-9V. I tested the voltage on my cam sensor and it was 8-9V. I did not mix the idle sensor wire with the cam sensor wire at all..i know this. I know its definitely nothing electrical. Ill write more later when I come back home."

So there ya go for now.

 

random:

i wrote in my other post that i did check the voltage at the ECU across the two wires and like i told selina it ranged between 8-9 volts just like at the harness. I was baffled at this and thought maybe this ECU was fried too until i checked my sensor voltage on my car (which is running beautifully) and it was a near identical 8-9 volts.

I think as you said before that it could be that HMA was just wrong about the voltage.

And about what you wrote about confusing the idle air actuator harness with the camshaft position sensor harness, the reason that i disregarded this as a possibility is because i know, in all actuality that this is absolutely physically impossible. im not just being cocky or nothing, but i physically couldnt have done it. Ill explain why

When i put in the intake manifold i NEVER even unplugged the camshaft position sensor harness, i didnt want to have to deal with the little bracket thats in there and it didnt seem like it was in the way so i never unplugged it, ever. It was quite easy to avoid throughout the install. When i determined it was appropriate to extend her idle air wires the camshaft position sensor harness was still untouched. I extended the wires and the problems started. I got P0343 and looked the code up, CMP sensor high voltage. I looked up where the camshaft position sensor was and i was thinking "i dont understand how that went bad, i didnt even touch it."

It was only then that i unplugged the sensor, and throughout the whole time messing with the CMP, i left the Idle bypass harness connected.

Since the voltage is ok and ive checked all the wires 14X, i really think the sensor is sending information back to the ECU just fine, but somehow the camshaft magnet got demagnetized. Tomarrow im going to pick up a camshaft from the pick and pull in auburn, for 17 bucks, and ill throw it in there and see what happens; if it doesnt work, im out 17 bucks which is less than i paid for the multimeter lol..

Oh and in the other thread selina said something about having the head off, she meant valve cover. We took the valve cover off twice. once to check the magnet and another time to check the timing, but this was after the problem was present so it didnt start the problem. this could have been, however a combination of problems. Maybe the ECU/wiring/sensor was bad and when we took the valve cover off to inspect the magnet somehow we damaged the magnet...So when we fixed the ECU/wiring/sensor the car ran the same because the magnet is now bad. But we'll find out tomarrow.

Thanks again though guys, i cant tell you how much it means to have people to go to when you have a problem you dont know what to do with.

 

LOL That's allright man, I MEANT Valve Cover too.

Hah!

Take the valve cover off and look at that cam. See if you can see the pin or not. If you can, see if you can get it to attract a plain, non magnetized piece of metal. Hell, see if it's even still in there.

You may need to replace the cam AND the sensor.

 

Yah i didnt think of bringing a ferrous piece of metal close to it and see if its magnetized, good idea i guess but im going to get the cam anyway, ill give it a shot tomarrow and see if there is a difference between how much the magnet pulls the metal.

Oh and i will try both my sensor and selinas sensor with the new cam.

Thats funny that you both meant valve cover when head and valves was said lmao.gif

 

Do me a favor...gimme the month/year of manufacturer off the drivers door of the car in question.

Also, now you're saying you're getting 8-9V out of the ECU. Before you said the ECU Pin 44 was dead.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>. The wire going to pin 44 i couldnt get it to test positive with the key on. this is how i tested it, i have a circuit tester that has a light that lights up when current is flowing through it, i hooked one end of the circuit to a good ground and then poked the other end of the tester to the end of the wire going to pin 44 with the ignition on, no light. I figured maybe the ECU doesnt get power unless the car is running so i hooked up my camshaft sensor figuring maybe the problem was a combination of bad wiring and a bad sensor but it didnt help.</div>

If ECU PIN 6 is Ground, and ECU Pin 44 which should be the 5V feed is dead...where are you getting 8-9 V from? The signal should route to the MFI relay, but you said that the MFI relay was putting out Positvie voltage? <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>I poked the end of the wire going in to pin 3 of the MFI relay and it lit up like a candle</div>

So... something doesn't make sense here...