Tires/Wheels do not travel straight up and down. The tires/wheels travel in an arc, because of they way the A-Arms, strut mounts, and wheel bearings/axles are.

As the tire goes up (or the car goes down) the top of the tire tips in (negative camber).
As the tire goes down (or the car goes up) the top of the tire goes OUT (positive camber).

[ February 19, 2003, 01:15 PM: Message edited by: Random ]

 

Random, in your experience, how much of a camber should I expect from the 1.2" Eibach drop?

 

oh schweet, i was just wondering about this camber stuff, and low-and-behold, there's an active topic on it.

Which of those kits would be needed for the SR spring drop on a 2nd gen? And none of those kits are for hyundai, so is there a specific set i'd need to ask for?

 

ElantraVision, it really depends on what your camber is NOW. If you're at +.5, then the drop would set you back to about -.5 maybe -1 Nuthin to worry about. But if you're ALREADY at -.5 or -1, then the drop would move you to -1.5 to -2. You could even be at -2 or -3 or even +2 to +3 now. Unless you've had a recent alighment done, there's no way to tell how the drop will affect you.

Phorq
The camber bolts maybe needed, they may not. As I described above...it depends on what settings you started with.

Your options are.... Buy the springs and have them installed. Drive around for 2-3 weeks, then have the car aligned. You can buy the camber bolts ahead of time so you have them handy IF you need them. If you don't need them, you can either return them or sell them to someone who DOES need them. Or, you can install them when the alighment is done, that way they are there IF you end up needing them. Alignments can go out of wack over time...and you may need them at a later point in time.

 

Just because I am retarded.

A camber kit will only help in the adjustment of the camber.
Your driving affects how you wear out your camber.
A camber kit does not lessen the "wearing out" the camber.

right?

 

No. Camber is a static measurement.

If a wheel is like "|" is has 0 Camber.
If a wheel is like "/" it has negative camber
If a wheel is like "" it has postive camber

It is measured in degrees from vertical. A wheel with 90 Degrees of camber (postive or negative) would be horizontal "-"

In general, you want just a tad bit of negative camber (-.5 to -1.5 degrees) to aid in cornering. Some autocross guys go with up to -3 degrees of camber to aid cornering, but it eats up the tires if you drive like that every day.

 

so is the camber bolt only for the initial adjusting of the camber?

Or can it reduce the camber from going bad, of course not from potholes and curbs, the camber would go bad either way.
So I guess what I'm asking is if I bought the camber kit and didn't really need it, of course I'd be wasting my money, but are there any other good things about having these kits?

 

i always thought that the camber kit would correct the camber and then you could adjust it as needed....so if you are within a certain degree like 1 or -1 then you dont need to "correct" the camber because the tire wear will be unnoticiable...but if you go down to -2 or -3 you will need the camber kit to adjust the camber back to the -.5 or -1 the camber shouldnt change with the kit on there.....is that a good assumtion? atleast thats how it was always explained to me.

 

one more ? where do the bolts get installed?? at the top he hte strut mount? how would you go about adjusting them? sorry for the double post.

 

i have arospeed coilovers on my car and had it as low as i could get it to go and when i went for alignment there was no need for a camber kit..dont know if it was just my car but it wasn't needed and i had a pretty decent size drop