Should I bother getting the camber adjustment bolts, or should the shop that I get my springs/struts put on at be able to work with it the way it is?

 

There is less than .5 degree adjustment available for camber. If you are lowered, you'll want the bolts.

You can also get SPRINT brand camber bolts from www.suspensionmax.com

 

random, when you say there is less than .5 degree adjustment for camber, do you mean after the camber bolts are installed? i'm not too well versed on suspensions.

 

the stock setup only has .5 Degrees of adjustablity. Basicaly just the "slop" in the stock setup.

Both Sprint's and Eibach's setup gives 2 degress of alterability.

 

I was told that I do NOT need the camber adjustment parts since my ride height won't be low enough that I'll need them.
My 4218-140 Eibach Pro-kit springs are sitting in my living room for my Elantra, since it's too wintery to install them yet. The drop is 1.2", and the 'slop' won't need to be corrected because there is a + or - 1 degree window for camber, before you run into tire wear problems.
Like I said, that is what I was told by a professional. Random, does that sound like it holds true?
He said that if I have a proper alignment done afterwards, everything would work like a stock setup...

 

1 degree more or less will not hurt tire life, or traction in normal driving.

However, if you autocross or road race, then a few degress of negative camber is desireable. (for drag racing you want 0 camber)

You can't get negative camber with the stock setup and lowering springs, so you need to revert to camber bolts.

It's hard to say if they will be "needed" in your specific application until you get an alightment done. If your camber is more that +/- 1.5 after adjustment, then you might start to see increased tire wear on the inside/outside edges of the tire.

 

Actually for drag racing you'll want a *teeny* bit of negative camber to counteract for the camber change when the front of the car rises. A macpherson strut setup like the Hyundais (and everything else nowadays) goes a little positive when the weight is taken off of it. What you want is 0' camber when the front of the car is about 3/4 as far up as it rises under acceleration, when the force on the tire is highest.

Just a point.

 

Just so I'm sure, a negative camber is when the tire leans inwards towards the car? Positive of course would be the opposite?
I thought I'd get a little of a negative camber when the car is lowered, this isn't the case. A small explanation might be in oder. poke

 

Negative Camber is when the TOP of the wheel leans in

Positive Camber is when the TOP of the wheel leans out.

 

Exactly,
so why wouldn't lowering the position of where the wheel assembly attaches to the suspension cause the TOP of the wheel to lean inwards?

EDIT: though, I thought I was just bringing the body of the car downwards since there are shorter springs, I don't really see why the wheel would move at all.

[ February 19, 2003, 07:22 AM: Message edited by: ELANTRAVISION ]