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UrS0NvS' Rd2 "the Build"

Old Nov 8, 2009 | 07:53 PM
  #141  
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supply wire. if i have problem later i may go to a distrubution block.

to be absolutely truthful with you guys, diode dynamics door kit is not good for our cars. i did quite a bit of cutting to get it to work right and truthfully i have seen better ways of making a harness setup. DTN's doors for example are topnotch but he is also OCD like me.
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:44 PM
  #142  
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here are some pics of what it takes to route wires through the factory wiring harness for the doors. you have to take off the doors to do this.





there is two places where you can do this, one on each side of the connector that will not interfere with how the plugin hooks back up after you rehang the door. you can use a drill to make the holes but for me it was easier to use a die grinder and a 1/4" bit. best to have one person sitting indian style under the door to hold it for you while you loosen the (5) 12 mm headed bolts and gearwrench's are definitely a friend on this. should have the rest of the wiring done this week for the "mood" lighting.

yeah, i'm slow but i am taking my time and thinking everything out the way i want it to be with a end result being professional looking.
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #143  
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Very nice project. Looks great
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 10:46 PM
  #144  
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i forgot to add when you are unpluggin the harness from inside the footwell when you start, it makes it easier to have a small flashlight and a long flathead screwdriver. find the tab on the male end of the harness (will be right hand side right in the middle) press down, and drop the light. then use that free hand to pull the harness free.

while you have the door just off the hinges with youre helper still under the door, it is easier to pull the oval sided boot off the chassis and then get access to the four tabs that hold it in the body. freeing the round end of the harness that snaps into the door will give you a few inches of play. once you get the tabs undone, pull the door away and proceed to make your hole.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 07:53 PM
  #145  
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I'm pretty sure I ran new speaker wires into the doors in the same locations without removing any doors. I used a coathanger from the inside, fished it through the boot and into the door, and then pulled the wires through with it. It was a pain in the ass though, I think it took me 2 hours for the 2 doors.

If I had to do it again I'd pull the doors just for the hell of it.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 08:33 PM
  #146  
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They really didn't want people to run wires through those grommets. Did that on the eclipse and it was a huge PITA. It's looking real good though.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 11:23 AM
  #147  
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I don't know how you could have ran wires like you said frozen with the way my connectors are. they are completely sealed and the double 90 bend in the harness would have been impossible . my door harnesses my be different than yours since we find things different from year to year on our cars but for my app, it was the only way.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #148  
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I cant remember if I pulled my doors or not anymore to run my speaker wire through there. Either way, its worth the work and not having speaker wire hanging out like many cars Ive seen.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 03:03 PM
  #149  
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I did them like Lees pics above the first time. I've even done a heatshrink tube around the whole harness so that I could run new wires, but I always end up with all the wires electric taped up, lol. When I undo them, I have my hands covered in black tape goo, with 5 feet of what I just peeled off on the ground sticking to my shoes. I hate messing with the door wiring. I just added the door speakers and tweets to my audio system again after years of being without it, and on my drivers side I just shoved the crossover in the door since its crazy under the dash. Luckily I ran some wires a while ago, so I didn't have to fish anything through.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #150  
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well, this is going to be a huge thread revival.

i took a little time off and just enjoyed driving my car. since it was getting nice out in terms of weather it was time for me to add alot of parts that were hanging around in the apt.

prosport water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure gauges in the molded pillar i did by following the directions on regit's diy, thanks Ronnie!



here are a few pics of what i did to route these gauges...



drilled sperate holes for each gauge so i can diagnose a problem later on if i have one.



wires ran out of each hole



routing the wiring to the pillar, tons of fun.

a video of them doing their "salute" during startup.



while i had the entire front end tore off for wire routing i decided to throw on the my airram and the 63mm BBTB i have had lying around here for say...0o00o, two years,lol.



I have yet to make a bracket so i can attach my cruise control cable. using the stock airram bracket will make the cable eat up the pulley. yeah, i have a beta 2 cover but with the hotwires on i can't put the cover on. at least i can use their cool oil fill cap. the knurling on this thing is unbelievable. it feels like it wants to rip the flesh right off your fingers, i like that.





system upgrade stuff is really expensive, but damn their stuff is nice.





last but not least, full set of killerglass rad hoses. alot of people think they are rice but i think it is great to watch your coolant flow. i have premix toyota red coolant in there cause i have leds for the hoses. still need to hook them upto a toggle switch in the engine bay somewheres.

I dont have a dual catch can setup like REDZ has on his car , just not in there right now. a kid at work wanted to learn how to polish aluminum so i gave him the catch can to pratice on.lol, call me crazy but if he does a good job its less i have to do, haha.

next thing i am saving up for is installing the yaya bushing kit. i will be getting this done at a mechanics shop so i can use a lift. i want to be able to take off all the parts and after i take out the old bushings i will be getting each susupension piece sandblasted and a good coat of black spray paint .

that is all for now.
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