Official Tibbi Build Thread
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: MC + RD2 + AW11 + 944 = 4x Win
The pics not working? Probably because I used imageshack.
If I have time at work today I'll update those with another host. Saturdays tend to be slow here.
If I have time at work today I'll update those with another host. Saturdays tend to be slow here.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: MC + RD2 + AW11 + 944 = 4x Win
BIG UPDATE TIME!!
New tie rod ends:
New lower control arms coated with POR15:
Mine were rusted to hell and back, this stuff is supposed to be a nice rust inhibitor as well as coating. We'll see.
New front hubs:
<no image>
New front knucles:
<no image>
New swaybar endlinks on all corners:
<no image>
The swaybars are to be update when the beta2 goes in, with the addition of adjustable links.
Megan Coilovers:
before
after
Even though she's a little dirty, tell me you wouldn't hit it like Captain Caveman
2005 XG Calipers:
How to? It's very simple:
Print out a copy of the logo of choice. I picked the old RDT logo and amended it slightly to fit on the natural curve of the claiper.
Apply several layers of a quality painters tape to a cutting mat, cheap masking tape will not adhere well and will give you really rough edges.
Apply a SMALL amount of glue (gorilla glue was way overkill) to the back side of the tape and apply the logo print. Let it set...
Get a fresh xacto knife. I say fresh, because you'll need cutting power to get through all of the tape layers and that edge will be dead by the end of this.
Trim the template until satiated. Mask off the front of your caliper and using a quality caliper paint mark a big [color of choice] rectangle on the caliper.
I already had a base layer on them, this is optional, but helps the final product a lot.
Peel all but the lowest layer of tape and apply the sticky side to the new [color of choice] rectangle on your caliper. Adjust as required. Being anal is fun.
Now the exciting part, paint away. You'll need several coats to cover the other color completely and evenly. After hours and hours of drying, peel the template and enjoy the view.
Profit!
It's not perfect, but from 5 feet away you can't tell. Guess how many fucks given? sh*t looks good
Had a minor issue with the rotors as you can see here:
https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...rotor-options/
The 2005 uses 12" (303mm) rotors where the previous XG350s use 10.9" (276mm.) I've upgraded to 12" rotors, but to keep 4 lug hubs I had to drill out the rotors to 4x114.3 pattern. It's been the biggest pain in the pooper as far as the rest of the build goes. Follow faithofadragon's guide and you'll be fine.
No pics of the 12 inchers, because by this point I was on rebuild 2 for both calipers and pretty worn out/pissed. But enjoy the glory of the (somewhat) bbk:
before
after
And mine are even larger than that!
The rear got coils, fresh pads and paint on the brakes and Por 15, but there were no major issues back there. No rust work mention nor distortion of parts. Don't fix what ain't broke. No real pics of the final, as mentioned before, but here's some interim pics for now. Enjoy! I'm off to my Tib's first meet since the long hiatus, hopefully see a few of you lurkers there. Maybe bring home some real pro pics of my Tibby to share. Can you tell I'm excited?
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: MC + RD2 + AW11 + 944 = 4x Win
Also received the proper transmission last week, big thx to SpoolinShark
The front strutbar is off for now, pending CF wrapped mounts and color matched bar.
Still sourcing a rear bar I like. May just wind up getting one fabbed
Next step:
Going to get the ball rolling on building the reliable trans that can take power, then comes the block build.
It's getting close!
The front strutbar is off for now, pending CF wrapped mounts and color matched bar.
Still sourcing a rear bar I like. May just wind up getting one fabbed
Next step:
Going to get the ball rolling on building the reliable trans that can take power, then comes the block build.
It's getting close!
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: MC + RD2 + AW11 + 944 = 4x Win
thx
The dowels just seemed like a solution though in hindsight I should have place the sawhorses closer together, the dowels flexed a lot and afterwards broke really easily.
The dowels just seemed like a solution though in hindsight I should have place the sawhorses closer together, the dowels flexed a lot and afterwards broke really easily.