alz99

I'm looking at this turbo kit for my coupe can any one tell me what a cast dump pipe is and does? and a recirculating blow off valve and a 2bar map sensor?

Thanks

oh whats up with a waste gate is it needed for a turbo kit?

Random

A "dump" pipe is used with a external wastegate. It "dumps" engine exhaust around the turbo, to prevent the turbo from spooling up further. The dump pipe can be a stand alone pipe, or it can be attached/blended/welded back into the stock exahust system.

On full on drag cars, the dump pipe is usually left seperate and just vents exhaust. In most race cars, according to the rules, they either route it back to the exhaust downpipe, or let it vent.

On a street car, you should route it back to the downpipe or exhaust system somewhere.

A recirculating blow off valve is necessary for MAF equipped cars. If you have a MAP, then you do NOT need a recirculating BOV.

alz99

Ok Random

I own a 97 1st gen tib 2.0l manual 5 speed
I'm looking at the SAS kit in australia (cuz u guys drive on the wrong side ... he he ..)

I.ve got the 4into 1 extractors, throttle body 58mm, carbon fibre cold air intake, and all the rest is standard if u remember my cars done 110,000kms on the clock and you said i needed to change the bearings. what else should i be looking at getting for this turbo setup?

by the way how cum you seem to know everything?
not to put u down or anything i was just wondering?

cheers...

Curtas

If you want to go turbo, you'll lose the extractors (if they're the same one's I'm thinking of). Because you'd either have to cut them up to get the turbo in a "normal" location, or you'd have to put the turbo under the car, which causes multiple piping, oil plumbing, and cooling problems. Just FYI.

As for Random knowing everything . . . he's been around the Hyundai performance boards for a long time. I don't know his technical background, but like a lot of us "old-timers" he's probably soaked up a plethora of information from the 3/4 years of posting and talking about our Tiburons. He also runs these boards, so he's the first name most new members come into contact with.

I always feel bad about bugging him too much (what with all the other questions he responds to), but I take his opinion very highly.

Good luck with the turbo kit, and keep us posted on how it goes.

ac

Random

Alz99-

I don't know everything...I only wish I did. It's one thing to know things "in theory" it is another thing to put those theories into practice and have them WORK. 50% of my knowledge comes from reading, and as such, is really "theory" in my opinion, because I have not personally put it into practice. I've been digging into engine/suspension/turbo/supercharger/exhaust design books for the last 2 years or so. I've also always been sort of a "car guy"...but never really known it or admitted it to myself until I started modifying my tibby. There is a weath of knowledge that you can gain on engines, turbochargers or whatever you want to research..for less than $100 in books. It will not give you the knowledge to go into your garage and build up a 1000 HP monster, but it gives you the knowledge to start asking/searching for the "harder" questions to turn that "theory" into practice.

The reason I reccomended bearings for your motor, is that the enemy of ANY motor (Forced Induction or N/A) is friction and vibration. The bearings and crank in your motor have worn over 9x,xxx km of travel. Not worn out, just worn. As bearings and their mating sufaces wear, they "shrink" as the materal on both sides wears away. This causes excessive clearances between the mating sufaces and the bearing. This can allow the crank to vibrate in the block and damage the block and/or crank. Ditto for the rod bearings.

Esssentially, you would have to reblueprint your motor before going for serious HP. Don't worry, blueprinting is not nearly has hard as it sounds. Blueprinting is basically the task of matching up all of your parts, and comparing them to the manufacturers specifications. With any part, they state that say a rod must be 10" long +/- .05 of an inch. Well, that means that you could have 2 rods 10.05" long and 2 rods 9.95 long, and you would be within "spec". However, blueprinting would be getting each rod as close as possible to the "perfect" value of 10", and also getting each rod as close as possible to eachother. Ditto for the clerances between crank and bearings...rod and bearings..etc..etc..etc.. It is a time consuming process, but a good blue print job can add a minor amount of HP, but the real goal of blueprinting is LONGEVITY and RELIABILITY.

Sure, you COULD slap a turbo on a 1,000,000 KM mile old motor, and it would work...for a while, but let's face it, if you go through all the work to build/buy a turbo kit, why not spend the slight bit of extra time to also make sure that that motor is as close as you can get it to 100% perfect, to make it LAST!!!!

alz99

now thats what im talking bout

cheers!