Turbo & Supercharge (Forced Induction) Posts regarding Turbochargers, Superchargers and any other method for Forced Induction.

Time To Pressurize A Line?

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Old 01-29-2007, 05:16 PM
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K, I'll make this short cause my laptop is electrocuting my fingers while I'm typing ever so often... anyone have any ideas on that? lmao.gif

First off, this is how I think the Alpine Injector controller works. There is a vacuum line routed from the IM to the injector controller, connected to a MAP sensor located in the controller. When there is pressure in the line, the MAP sensor says "OMFGWTFBBQ d00d, I see deh b00st!?!" and it tells the injector to fire.

Now, I have the Main Unichip and the Injector Controller inside the cabin, as they had several wires connecting each other. I found no firewall exit, so I ran the line out through the fender well and up to the back of the manifold. This leads to the line being several feet long (in upwards of seven-eight feet I believe, maybe more).

What I'm experiencing is a sort of lean spot in between shifts and when going from no boost to seeing pressure. It is gear dependent, meaning 1st has never done this that I can feel, while 4th and 5th have the most lag. I'd assume this is because there is more load on the motor and more boost being created quicker(boost would be slower to build in first gear). Thats how I believe it relates to my problem. Going from no boost to seeing boost usually creates more lag than in between shifts. It is NEVER enough to throw a misfire, but it IS enough to feel.

So my question would be would extending the wires in between the main unit/injector controller and mounting the injector controller in the engine bay, requiring only a foot or so of line, help this problem?

I couldn't really find anything on the internet that would tell me how long it would take to pressurize certain lengths of line. Not that I'm good at math anyway. Hell, I could be not understanding the Unichip properly as well.

And I was electrocuted about fifty times during this post, and they hurt, so hopefull one of you guys has an answer for me. I probably care more about de-electrifying my keyboard then this problem at the moment. lmao.gif lmao.gif
Old 01-29-2007, 05:42 PM
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lol at your laptop. sounds like your idea with the injectors may work. if not, i cant think of anything else that would
Old 01-29-2007, 05:47 PM
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yeah the boost/vacuum line is way too long... now, not to mention adding all the bends or maybe some kinks along the way

the closer the map sensor to the source, it will allow for the unichip to be really (faster) responsive to the boost/vacuum

btw, do you have a boost gauge as well? if yes, are you sharing this same line with the injector controller?

my boost/vacuum line is routed right through the firewal along with other lines (amp, wideband, oil pressure, 2ndary injector wires, etc) and yes, they fit with a lot of space left; the lines and wires are far from being squished

( these pics are from tibby01's firewall passage way DIY http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=109 )




^^^
you can make that hole bigger with some knifing/cutting action or do it like how i did on mine

with mine, i just pulled out the top part (1/4) of the rubber grommet from the firewall and voila!



on the keyboard shocking thing... maybe grounding the laptop or even yourself will help
Old 01-29-2007, 05:56 PM
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Ye, I figured so. I was going to end up doing it last weekend, but ended up picking partying > Tibby, at least this time. wink1.gif

Currently not running a boost gauge. It shouldn't kink (running fuel line for it so its a fairly stiff line) but it is pretty long. I'll have to dig under the dash and attack that passage on the weekend, or route the electrical wiring the way I have the vacuum line routed now. I'll party Friday night and leave Saturday evening for the Tibby. Or hell, if its not freezing I'll do it here at college during the week.

I originally went through all the trouble of making a mount in the engine bay for both the main unit and injector controller, but John said it wouldn't work properly (I was following the Beta II wiring guide as there was no Beta I specific guide really) that way. I saw this as a potential problem then but have been putting it off for a bit because time ran out and had to head back to college. As it was not causing any real major problems I postponed it.
Old 01-29-2007, 06:05 PM
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you have a bad ground in your wall. your laptop is electrocuting you because your grounding is bad on the laptop.
Old 01-29-2007, 06:20 PM
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That (engine wiring harness gromet) firewall passage way take a little bit of patience (especially if you will be doing it in the cold) but once it's done... you can route anything through there easier, quicker and you will have shorter runs

That gromet somehow of a hard rubber and you have to be careful that you dont hit/cut/damage any of the engine wiring harnesss underneath. Also with the little space between the IM and the firewall and fishing the wires and line through will add to the challenge. Stand on top the engine if you have to
Old 01-29-2007, 06:26 PM
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QUOTE (DrivingTibNaked @ Jan 30 2007, 01:05 AM)
you have a bad ground in your wall. your laptop is electrocuting you because your grounding is bad on the laptop.


TY my electrical genius friend.

Also TY for advice Jay-M.

(Hamhead goes off to tear apart his dorm wall looking for a bad ground wink1.gif )




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