well, for the code issue i've got one guy over here who's getting the exact same code, i'll play with the tubobox setting on his car but i'm quite positive i'll be able to fix it,funny thing is that he gets the code in one area near him ,and only when he's doing a specific driving style

so at least i know what to look at

for your hard to star and "popping" issues,
where does the unichip gets his power?
is your battery in good condition?

if the voltage going to the unichip is low it can cause hard to start problems

from what i've seen it's an informative code only, so it shouldn't affect the fuel and timing maps

 

Its soldered into the negative cable a few inches from the terminal; about the only solder connection I haven't checked so I'll take a peek at it on the weekend as well.

The car doesn't really start hard, but after it starts the RPMS will fall 300 at a time (really fast) and it'll try to recover, and sometimes it just doesn't recover fast enough. Only does that on occasion when its dead cold.

 

One of my camshaft sensor wires (pin #41 was loose out of the ECU) so now I'm boosting more properly, still a little finnicky, but not missing. I'd like to thank the ECU for throwing a low signal CKP code to let me know somethng was wrong (/sarcasm)...

Still have the idle issue, once I figure that out I'll figure it out.

The reason I found this is I had my Unichip demounted, went to exit my car and I kicked it accidently and the idle revved up so I knew a wire was loose. lmao.gif

 

Finally got access to some good OBD software (aka not Autozone crap) and learned a bit more.

My TPS is fine (6.7% open at idle, where it should be). My MAF is screwing things to hell, the car's fuel trims are maxed out trying to combat this overwhelming richness problem.

Yes, I'm misfiring from running rich >.< Tough to do but I've managed it. Its probably something to do with my wiring for the Unichip, or the Unichip got scrambed and screwed to hell somehow. I'm going over my wiring when I can, and if its not that I'll have to send it back to see if it got jarbled somehow.

Currently, I pulled the MAF sensor clip, no idling issues, no popping from rich backfires. Can't boost it more than a few pounds obviously, but its better than it was.

And pin #41 (the wire that was loose) is the MAF wire I believe... so my problem probably stems from that still. Its such a pain in the ass cause its right smack dab in the middle of the harness.

 

chekc the maf sensor wiring from computer to maf,check if the maf sensor element is dirty or covered with oil