Starting Research For My Boost Project.
10-14-2008, 09:38 PM
#11
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Glad to help man. I forget tho which model has the 290's, I'll ask Denis when I talk to him next or you can shoot him a PM.
As for BOV, stick with a name brand. Those no name knock offs tend to leak under boost or sometimes refuse to even open. If your looking for a cheap alternative a DSM BOV is great for low boost. I might have some kicking around.
Turbo timer, you might not need. Is your turbo watercooled? If so, you don't really need a timer in the system. Just don't go redlining ever gear than shutting off the motor. Watercooled turbo's don't need much in cool down time. When you park, sit in your car for 10-15 secs with it on, than turn it off. Thats it.
Wastegate, like I mentioned, get a name brand. You'll have less problems in the long run. I hate diagnosing problems, and when it comes down to it, its the shitty no name brand wastegate thats not building boost, or the wide open BOV LOL.
Oil supply/return... If your turbo is BB, than you might need a restrictor. Make sure you check out which restrictor the manufacture recommends for the turbo. Use -3 or -4 SS line as your feed. Get a oil sandwich plate and run your feed from there. (They are on ebay for like 40$ and come in blue
) As your return use -10 SS. Wait until you have everything in place before you start mocking up feed and return, just to make sure you get left hanging without enough line.
For FPR, I recommend this one by Aeromotive. It's like mine...but silver instead of red and silver. I don't know why you don't like red tongue.gif http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku
As for BOV, stick with a name brand. Those no name knock offs tend to leak under boost or sometimes refuse to even open. If your looking for a cheap alternative a DSM BOV is great for low boost. I might have some kicking around.
Turbo timer, you might not need. Is your turbo watercooled? If so, you don't really need a timer in the system. Just don't go redlining ever gear than shutting off the motor. Watercooled turbo's don't need much in cool down time. When you park, sit in your car for 10-15 secs with it on, than turn it off. Thats it.
Wastegate, like I mentioned, get a name brand. You'll have less problems in the long run. I hate diagnosing problems, and when it comes down to it, its the shitty no name brand wastegate thats not building boost, or the wide open BOV LOL.
Oil supply/return... If your turbo is BB, than you might need a restrictor. Make sure you check out which restrictor the manufacture recommends for the turbo. Use -3 or -4 SS line as your feed. Get a oil sandwich plate and run your feed from there. (They are on ebay for like 40$ and come in blue
) As your return use -10 SS. Wait until you have everything in place before you start mocking up feed and return, just to make sure you get left hanging without enough line. For FPR, I recommend this one by Aeromotive. It's like mine...but silver instead of red and silver. I don't know why you don't like red tongue.gif http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku
10-14-2008, 10:10 PM
#12
Senior Member
Well, I know I am the odd ball out, but I have had great luck with some of the cheaper brands off ebay. I have roughly 8000 miles on my TC setup and all the no name brand components I have used are working great. My no name BOV is holding 10 PSI just fine with PLENTY of room to adjust. If I were going to a bigger build, I would definitely consider getting some better quality parts. But for my current setup, my parts are working flawlessly.
As far as internals go, you should be fine. I am running 10 PSI at altitude, and getting no signs of detonation.
Fuel injectors: I think you should go with the ford green tops. You dont want to over run the duty cycle on Smaller injectors. This is a mission critical component as well as the fuel pump, so spend the money and get the Bosch 440's. You'll be able to get most of your money back out of them when/if you upgrade your build.
If the megasquirt can handle a turbo timer, great! you can even set it up in your alarm system so it will delay arm itself while your turbo is timing down. I dont have a timer on my car and its ok with me. I just know that if I run the hell out of the car, I need to save at least a couple miles before I get home to go easy on the throttle and if need be, let the car idle for a few minutes before i shut it down. Not a big deal to me and it saved me time and money investing in a timer.
There are many options for your IC. I never had to remove my bumper to fit and install my intercooler and all the plumbing. Not sure why people insist on dismantling the entire front of their vehicle to do this. I fyou are installing a HUGE honkin IC, then yes, but for you, should be a piece of cake. Let me know if you want I can get you the dimensions of mine.
Boost control: Are you going manual or electronic. If electronic, you'll need a boost solenoid.
Obviously pluming and t-bolts. I just got a universal plumbing kit off ebay. Works great. High boost applications your gonna wanna weld most of the joints, but for low boost, you'll be golden.
A flange for your BOV, OR....i picked up this cool inline section of plumbing with the flange built on. Do a search on ebay and you'll find them. Was a simple and easy way to do my BOV without cutting and welding something perminently in place.
Vaccuum manifold - Even with the AIRRAM, I still had tee's out the wazoo. Look for a nice vacuum manifold for extra vacuum ports.
Oil feed return: I have my oil feed off the block. I put my oil pressure sending unit inline with the line running to my turbo. I was then able to fine tun the restrictor fitting to give the turbo exactly what it needs. My oil pressure gauge shows the pressure my turbo see's. IMO, its a great place to have the oil pressure sensor. You'll never second guess if you are over or under pressure on you oil to the turbo.
Turbo: I have had great luck with my oil and water cooled turbo. They are a little more expensive, but I think the longevity is worth it. As far as the size, I'd say you need to decide if this is an intermediary build waiting for you the twin charge (I assume you will use the supercharger for low RPM's and the turbo for peak RPM and power). If this is the case, I suppose a larger turbo would be better down the road. It wont be near as responsive, but since its temporary, it'll get you started. If you want to eventually upgrade the turbo, I'd say get a smaller turbo. It may peak out around 12-13 PSI, but it'll be VERY responsive. I have a Garret .48 trim. It holds boost from 2800 RPM to about 5200 RPM and starts to fall out. She'll hold boost all the way to redline, just not at 10 PSI all the way. Its very peppy and spools very quick. But, I do suffer a little on the high end.
Hmmmm..... Thats all I can think of now. GL man!!!!
As far as internals go, you should be fine. I am running 10 PSI at altitude, and getting no signs of detonation.
Fuel injectors: I think you should go with the ford green tops. You dont want to over run the duty cycle on Smaller injectors. This is a mission critical component as well as the fuel pump, so spend the money and get the Bosch 440's. You'll be able to get most of your money back out of them when/if you upgrade your build.
If the megasquirt can handle a turbo timer, great! you can even set it up in your alarm system so it will delay arm itself while your turbo is timing down. I dont have a timer on my car and its ok with me. I just know that if I run the hell out of the car, I need to save at least a couple miles before I get home to go easy on the throttle and if need be, let the car idle for a few minutes before i shut it down. Not a big deal to me and it saved me time and money investing in a timer.
There are many options for your IC. I never had to remove my bumper to fit and install my intercooler and all the plumbing. Not sure why people insist on dismantling the entire front of their vehicle to do this. I fyou are installing a HUGE honkin IC, then yes, but for you, should be a piece of cake. Let me know if you want I can get you the dimensions of mine.
Boost control: Are you going manual or electronic. If electronic, you'll need a boost solenoid.
Obviously pluming and t-bolts. I just got a universal plumbing kit off ebay. Works great. High boost applications your gonna wanna weld most of the joints, but for low boost, you'll be golden.
A flange for your BOV, OR....i picked up this cool inline section of plumbing with the flange built on. Do a search on ebay and you'll find them. Was a simple and easy way to do my BOV without cutting and welding something perminently in place.
Vaccuum manifold - Even with the AIRRAM, I still had tee's out the wazoo. Look for a nice vacuum manifold for extra vacuum ports.
Oil feed return: I have my oil feed off the block. I put my oil pressure sending unit inline with the line running to my turbo. I was then able to fine tun the restrictor fitting to give the turbo exactly what it needs. My oil pressure gauge shows the pressure my turbo see's. IMO, its a great place to have the oil pressure sensor. You'll never second guess if you are over or under pressure on you oil to the turbo.
Turbo: I have had great luck with my oil and water cooled turbo. They are a little more expensive, but I think the longevity is worth it. As far as the size, I'd say you need to decide if this is an intermediary build waiting for you the twin charge (I assume you will use the supercharger for low RPM's and the turbo for peak RPM and power). If this is the case, I suppose a larger turbo would be better down the road. It wont be near as responsive, but since its temporary, it'll get you started. If you want to eventually upgrade the turbo, I'd say get a smaller turbo. It may peak out around 12-13 PSI, but it'll be VERY responsive. I have a Garret .48 trim. It holds boost from 2800 RPM to about 5200 RPM and starts to fall out. She'll hold boost all the way to redline, just not at 10 PSI all the way. Its very peppy and spools very quick. But, I do suffer a little on the high end.
Hmmmm..... Thats all I can think of now. GL man!!!!
10-14-2008, 10:46 PM
#13
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QUOTE (RED ZMAN @ Oct 14 2008, 08:50 AM)
My end goal is to dual charge it, with a homebrew TC kit and the NGM SC after it's proven to fit our engine bays.
Great minds think alike. That's all I'm saying about that. biggthumpup.gif
10-14-2008, 11:02 PM
#14
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i don't see the point of twincharging exept for a show car, wich isn't my cup of tea...
i'd go for an efficient larger BB turbo, minimal lag, less heat, less stuff to break...
anyway
the manifold in the picture looks more like a alpha manifold (round port holes)
you're sure about it?
wastegate, if you need to go external, go with a tial most common (diamond shaped flange with 2 bolts) is a 38mm
injector the 290's from the 2.4 are too short to bolt in, and the connector isn't the same, go for at least 440's like the ford green tops,those should be good for about 300-350hp and are bolt on & plug and play
for low boost the stock pump will work, if you want to change it go with a walbro 190 or 255lp
stock FPR is okay to use, been boosting up to 25 psi with it, never failed on me ;-) will work with pumps up to 190lph
turbo, go with a genuine garrett bb,if you want to cheap out a bit get a plain jane garrett t3 super60 with .48 turbine housing and .60 compressor housing, no lag, might take away the envy of twin charging cool.gif can push and hold in the 20ish psi area
you can make close to 300 if you want on the stock engine ,it's all in the tune
oil feed form the block, sensor port, use braided #4 hose and fitting,if going ball bearing use a restrictor and a filter
oil drain back, nice clean way, tap the block, easy way drill and weld the oil pan, use bends of 5/8" steel tube or use #10 raided hose
ic wise, about 9"tall x 3" thick x 24" tube to tubes shouldn't require cutting
btw get good gauges,
autometer are cheap and relaible, boost,oil pressure and wideband are a strict minimum
you need to search old man ;-)
i'd go for an efficient larger BB turbo, minimal lag, less heat, less stuff to break...
anyway
the manifold in the picture looks more like a alpha manifold (round port holes)
you're sure about it?
wastegate, if you need to go external, go with a tial most common (diamond shaped flange with 2 bolts) is a 38mm
injector the 290's from the 2.4 are too short to bolt in, and the connector isn't the same, go for at least 440's like the ford green tops,those should be good for about 300-350hp and are bolt on & plug and play
for low boost the stock pump will work, if you want to change it go with a walbro 190 or 255lp
stock FPR is okay to use, been boosting up to 25 psi with it, never failed on me ;-) will work with pumps up to 190lph
turbo, go with a genuine garrett bb,if you want to cheap out a bit get a plain jane garrett t3 super60 with .48 turbine housing and .60 compressor housing, no lag, might take away the envy of twin charging cool.gif can push and hold in the 20ish psi area
you can make close to 300 if you want on the stock engine ,it's all in the tune
oil feed form the block, sensor port, use braided #4 hose and fitting,if going ball bearing use a restrictor and a filter
oil drain back, nice clean way, tap the block, easy way drill and weld the oil pan, use bends of 5/8" steel tube or use #10 raided hose
ic wise, about 9"tall x 3" thick x 24" tube to tubes shouldn't require cutting
btw get good gauges,
autometer are cheap and relaible, boost,oil pressure and wideband are a strict minimum
you need to search old man ;-)
10-15-2008, 07:16 AM
#15
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QUOTE (DTN @ Oct 14 2008, 08:08 PM)
Isn't that the one you had on the shelf in the garrage for a few years? I asked you if that was a turbo manifold and you said "nah, it's just a manifold.
Is there a reason SOCKS isn't helping you more, or building your kit for you? He's been talking about mass producing a turbo kit for our cars.
Good luck in your quest to obtain parts for this turbo kit.
Is there a reason SOCKS isn't helping you more, or building your kit for you? He's been talking about mass producing a turbo kit for our cars.
Good luck in your quest to obtain parts for this turbo kit.
Yes. And No. You asked me if it was a header, and I said "no, it's just a manifold". LOL
I don't know why Nate isn't in here, I'm assuming because it's not the shoutbox. LOL His advice is welcome.
QUOTE (mwood @ Oct 14 2008, 09:27 PM)
Turbo timer is an added luxury, its really not need...you can always wait a 30 seconds to a couple minutes in the car depending on the driving you just did...also if you do i never heard anything bad about Apexi, HKS, or greddy...it just what you want
Well, I like the luxuries, and for SURE like to do stuff right the first time.
Does anyone know if the Megasquirt has Turbo Timer capabilities?
QUOTE
I go with HKS if i was you, sounds beatuiful, just get a name brand...lol
Go with Tial 38mm, alot of members have them
Go with Tial 38mm, alot of members have them
I'll start looking at them. Nate told me to check out the Turbonetics wastegate too, think I'll take a look there.
QUOTE
it all depends on you, you can get a sandwhich off the oil filter for feed and have the return going to oil pan...just make sure you get a resistcor for the feed...or you can feed it off the block, that is how tdonnell has it on his
I was considering a sandwich plate, as then it'll be easier to put in a temp sensor too for my oil. Maybe a sandwich plate and a remote oil filter setup. so I can extend my oil capacity too. The specifics I need though are about the restrictors. I've seen posts about that, that there is one in the head, and to use it, or not to use it, depends on who you talk to.
QUOTE (tanc @ Oct 14 2008, 09:38 PM)
As for BOV, stick with a name brand. Those no name knock offs tend to leak under boost or sometimes refuse to even open. If your looking for a cheap alternative a DSM BOV is great for low boost. I might have some kicking around.
Cheap is nice, but I'm looking for more name brand stuff. I prefer the quality of good name brands, not that OEM stuff is bad, so for sure, let me know what you have man.
QUOTE
Turbo timer, you might not need. Is your turbo watercooled? If so, you don't really need a timer in the system. Just don't go redlining ever gear than shutting off the motor. Watercooled turbo's don't need much in cool down time. When you park, sit in your car for 10-15 secs with it on, than turn it off. Thats it.
Well, the turbo will be decided on after I figure out what the manifold is flanged for. Pics will be up with measurements in the next few days. I'm not actually installing this till I've got everything I need, so if anyone has a decently priced timer in mind that I can pick up over the next few months, let me know. I want to space this all out so I have time to get everything I need.
QUOTE
Oil supply/return... If your turbo is BB, than you might need a restrictor. Make sure you check out which restrictor the manufacture recommends for the turbo. Use -3 or -4 SS line as your feed. Get a oil sandwich plate and run your feed from there. (They are on ebay for like 40$ and come in blue) As your return use -10 SS. Wait until you have everything in place before you start mocking up feed and return, just to make sure you get left hanging without enough line.
) As your return use -10 SS. Wait until you have everything in place before you start mocking up feed and return, just to make sure you get left hanging without enough line.LOL You guys haven't seen my car, I got rid of most of the blue stuff on there, and just use it for lighting and the occasional accent. Most everything is either black or polished, with only blue hoses and wires. Actually looks pretty damned nice now if I say so myself.
This part is something I'm most concerned about, as this is where I've seen the most variation. I'll probably pick up a spare oil pan and have it done before I get to work, so I can just take mine off and replace it. I know how much of a PITA they can be to do. Just wish there was a NON invasive way to ... Hmm.... I might have an idea for the oil return now that is non invasive. More to come on this.
QUOTE
For FPR, I recommend this one by Aeromotive. It's like mine...but silver instead of red and silver. I don't know why you don't like red tongue.gif http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku
There we go, that sucker is beautiful. Now I should need a RRFPR right? I don't see where it says that in the description for that FPR though.
QUOTE (tibbytib @ Oct 14 2008, 10:10 PM)
As far as internals go, you should be fine. I am running 10 PSI at altitude, and getting no signs of detonation.
That's what I figured, you are kinda my inspiration here Tom.
QUOTE
Fuel injectors: I think you should go with the ford green tops. You dont want to over run the duty cycle on Smaller injectors. This is a mission critical component as well as the fuel pump, so spend the money and get the Bosch 440's. You'll be able to get most of your money back out of them when/if you upgrade your build.
Any suggested outlets for those? Do they plug right in? I'm trying to avoid doing any wire work if I can.
QUOTE
There are many options for your IC. I never had to remove my bumper to fit and install my intercooler and all the plumbing. Not sure why people insist on dismantling the entire front of their vehicle to do this. I fyou are installing a HUGE honkin IC, then yes, but for you, should be a piece of cake. Let me know if you want I can get you the dimensions of mine.
Yes, please!
QUOTE
Boost control: Are you going manual or electronic. If electronic, you'll need a boost solenoid.
No idea. I have no clue on Boost Control. I'm reading a lot on everything right now, someone give me the Cliffs Notes here. What's better for what purpose? I'm not looking at changing my boost a lot.
QUOTE
Obviously pluming and t-bolts. I just got a universal plumbing kit off ebay. Works great. High boost applications your gonna wanna weld most of the joints, but for low boost, you'll be golden.
Got any links to the plumbing kit you got? Did you just need to do some cuts? Your piping looked great.
QUOTE
A flange for your BOV, OR....i picked up this cool inline section of plumbing with the flange built on. Do a search on ebay and you'll find them. Was a simple and easy way to do my BOV without cutting and welding something perminently in place.
I think I know what you are talking about.
Like these?
http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_dmptZMoto...v&_osacat=0
Good idea.
QUOTE
Vaccuum manifold - Even with the AIRRAM, I still had tee's out the wazoo. Look for a nice vacuum manifold for extra vacuum ports.
I should have put this in before, I've got one (thanks Tanc). Just hope it's big enough.
QUOTE
Oil feed return: I have my oil feed off the block. I put my oil pressure sending unit inline with the line running to my turbo. I was then able to fine tun the restrictor fitting to give the turbo exactly what it needs. My oil pressure gauge shows the pressure my turbo see's. IMO, its a great place to have the oil pressure sensor. You'll never second guess if you are over or under pressure on you oil to the turbo.
Hmmm... I dont' know if I noticed this last time man. Can you get me some pics? Sounds like the way I'd like to go.
QUOTE
Turbo: I have had great luck with my oil and water cooled turbo. They are a little more expensive, but I think the longevity is worth it. As far as the size, I'd say you need to decide if this is an intermediary build waiting for you the twin charge (I assume you will use the supercharger for low RPM's and the turbo for peak RPM and power). If this is the case, I suppose a larger turbo would be better down the road. It wont be near as responsive, but since its temporary, it'll get you started. If you want to eventually upgrade the turbo, I'd say get a smaller turbo. It may peak out around 12-13 PSI, but it'll be VERY responsive. I have a Garret .48 trim. It holds boost from 2800 RPM to about 5200 RPM and starts to fall out. She'll hold boost all the way to redline, just not at 10 PSI all the way. Its very peppy and spools very quick. But, I do suffer a little on the high end.
Here's another I don't know much about, the positives and negatives of oil vs water for turbos. I'm always going up near redline, so I for sure need something that holds my peak desired boost all the way up to it, or at least VERY near it. I do plan on getting a decent turbo, but do tell me about what you got, brand, cost, links, what have you. You for sure have my final build idea down. Thanks Tom.
QUOTE (i8acobra @ Oct 14 2008, 10:46 PM)
Great minds think alike. That's all I'm saying about that. biggthumpup.gif
cool.gif fing02.gif
10-15-2008, 07:53 AM
#16
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seems like everyone has things covered and different opinions as usual.
i would just go straight for the 440cc injectors, you can get them brand new, very cheap.
if you need my help for some of the stuff, let me know. it will be easy for me to help since im working on the other kits right now, so ill have a piping kit, bolt in fuel system (dimensions of lines, fittings needed, etc.)
i would just go straight for the 440cc injectors, you can get them brand new, very cheap.
if you need my help for some of the stuff, let me know. it will be easy for me to help since im working on the other kits right now, so ill have a piping kit, bolt in fuel system (dimensions of lines, fittings needed, etc.)
10-15-2008, 08:10 AM
#17
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Here's the last part of my previous post (too many quotes, guess I'm really interested!).
Well, it IS a show car, but it's also a "show off" car locally.
Well, the one in the pic is just an example, I'll have my pics up shortly. About 35 folks have seen my manifold now, I hope to god someone would have said something before now. LOL Besides, yes, I'm pretty sure it's the right one.
Wasn't it DMDicks that was using the 290's? As for the 440's, is there a make/model I should keep an eye on at the junkers for them, or should I just look for them new? Got any ideas on price before I go searching?
I'll probably still do the pump and FPR, as I want to replace a bunch of my fuel lines with something better looking, and I hate our fuel rail ends anyways. Do you know if the pump is just a direct swap?
I'll look into them. I still wanna twincharge though, been on my mind for about 6 years now.
This is a bit hard for me to follow here, can you spell it out a bit for me? I'll do some more looking at it when I get home too.
Well, I would if I were getting gauges. I'll be doing my carpc in the meantime, so all of my gauges will be on there. Points taken on all accounts.
How do you think I got into this mess? LOL
You guys have been a great help so far, keep it up, I need to start buying parts on Tuesday. One part every 2 weeks or so I think will do it. Hahahah!
Socks, for sure man, can you show me the proper injectors online so I'm sure I'm looking for the right ones?
As for piping, let me know, sourcing my turbo is important too of course. PM me some info about what you are thinking for fuel, NRG should be back to me in a day or so.
Well, it IS a show car, but it's also a "show off" car locally.
Well, the one in the pic is just an example, I'll have my pics up shortly. About 35 folks have seen my manifold now, I hope to god someone would have said something before now. LOL Besides, yes, I'm pretty sure it's the right one.
Wasn't it DMDicks that was using the 290's? As for the 440's, is there a make/model I should keep an eye on at the junkers for them, or should I just look for them new? Got any ideas on price before I go searching?
I'll probably still do the pump and FPR, as I want to replace a bunch of my fuel lines with something better looking, and I hate our fuel rail ends anyways. Do you know if the pump is just a direct swap?
QUOTE
turbo, go with a genuine garrett bb,if you want to cheap out a bit get a plain jane garrett t3 super60 with .48 turbine housing and .60 compressor housing, no lag, might take away the envy of twin charging cool.gif can push and hold in the 20ish psi area
I'll look into them. I still wanna twincharge though, been on my mind for about 6 years now.
QUOTE
oil feed form the block, sensor port, use braided #4 hose and fitting,if going ball bearing use a restrictor and a filter
oil drain back, nice clean way, tap the block, easy way drill and weld the oil pan, use bends of 5/8" steel tube or use #10 raided hose
ic wise, about 9"tall x 3" thick x 24" tube to tubes shouldn't require cutting
oil drain back, nice clean way, tap the block, easy way drill and weld the oil pan, use bends of 5/8" steel tube or use #10 raided hose
ic wise, about 9"tall x 3" thick x 24" tube to tubes shouldn't require cutting
This is a bit hard for me to follow here, can you spell it out a bit for me? I'll do some more looking at it when I get home too.
QUOTE
btw get good gauges,
autometer are cheap and relaible, boost,oil pressure and wideband are a strict minimum
autometer are cheap and relaible, boost,oil pressure and wideband are a strict minimum
Well, I would if I were getting gauges. I'll be doing my carpc in the meantime, so all of my gauges will be on there. Points taken on all accounts.
QUOTE
you need to search old man ;-)
How do you think I got into this mess? LOL
You guys have been a great help so far, keep it up, I need to start buying parts on Tuesday. One part every 2 weeks or so I think will do it. Hahahah!
Socks, for sure man, can you show me the proper injectors online so I'm sure I'm looking for the right ones?
As for piping, let me know, sourcing my turbo is important too of course. PM me some info about what you are thinking for fuel, NRG should be back to me in a day or so.
10-15-2008, 08:23 AM
#18
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dmdicks was using 290cc primaries. not his only fueling though.
290cc is only 45cc bigger than stock.. probably enough to feed like 4psi and they would be maxxed out.
440cc should be good for around 12+ psi on a smaller turbo at least.
290cc is only 45cc bigger than stock.. probably enough to feed like 4psi and they would be maxxed out.
440cc should be good for around 12+ psi on a smaller turbo at least.
10-15-2008, 10:42 AM
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LOL, not sure if you knew it or not but I was twin-charged for a while. First I had a stock Alpine Turbo kit with a rebuilt 15T with 16G internals. I had this coupled with a Alpine MP45 Blower kit. Boy was that fun. I had an instant 15psi boost as soon as I touched the gas pedal. Problem was the modified 15T turbine was too small to flow enough for high RPMs. Then I had to give my S/C kit back to Alpine to sell to a customer. It was the fully polished kit they had on display at SEMA.
After that I upgraded to a Garrett GT2876R with a .86 Turbine A/R. I kept waiting for a MP45 kit to free up but it never happened. So I custom built a M62 blower on a the MP45 Manifold. I had an instant 20psi of boost when my foot touched the pedal. I had the Turbo WG set at 5psi and the blower set at 5psi. Not sure how it combined to form 20psi of instant boost. Needless to say that was Hella fun but a b**** to tune. Plus I had no intercooling on the supercharger so even at 5psi my IAT temps were getting really high. I had to sell the custom M62 kit for money so I abandoned the project.
The hardest part I had was the tuning of the transition between S/C boost and T/C boost. It can be done but you have to work at it.
Right now I'm running 290cc primaries with 65lb/hr secondaries. smile.gif
After that I upgraded to a Garrett GT2876R with a .86 Turbine A/R. I kept waiting for a MP45 kit to free up but it never happened. So I custom built a M62 blower on a the MP45 Manifold. I had an instant 20psi of boost when my foot touched the pedal. I had the Turbo WG set at 5psi and the blower set at 5psi. Not sure how it combined to form 20psi of instant boost. Needless to say that was Hella fun but a b**** to tune. Plus I had no intercooling on the supercharger so even at 5psi my IAT temps were getting really high. I had to sell the custom M62 kit for money so I abandoned the project.
The hardest part I had was the tuning of the transition between S/C boost and T/C boost. It can be done but you have to work at it.
Right now I'm running 290cc primaries with 65lb/hr secondaries. smile.gif