Re/build Pics.. Track Day ,dyno ,vids
09-10-2008, 10:20 AM
#41
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Regit, next time, before you go and replace your clutch, check out the deglaze your clutch DIY I wrote. My clutch has slipped before durring a nitrous spray and I've used that to resurface the clutch. It works well. As long as you've got meat left on the clutch, you should be good to go. Your clutch wasn't even making full contact yet, so there was no real need to replace it, it could easily form up to the flywheel still.
Also, be careful, with additonal clamping strength comes additional wear. I've heard of people ruining the bearings on their crankshaft from having too much clamping strength. The forks can pull the clutch out and draggthe whole crank over a few milimeters with it.
Good luck on the track. Don't shift too hard, and make sure you're fully engauged before you give it gas. The clutch slipping is caused by a heavy glaze which eliminates friction. It's the thing that makes clutches and brakes last longer. The break-in period is to form the friction surface to the friction plate and to build a glaze on the friction plate which will prevent wear durring heavier friction. If you power-slip your clutch while taking off (3k clutch drop), it gives you a big boost of power, but it will also cause glazing and you don't want to do that until you've fully broken in the clutch, but if you do, then you can check out that DIY on degazing your clutch I wrote. It should help some.
Be careful out there, I love your car.
Also, be careful, with additonal clamping strength comes additional wear. I've heard of people ruining the bearings on their crankshaft from having too much clamping strength. The forks can pull the clutch out and draggthe whole crank over a few milimeters with it.
Good luck on the track. Don't shift too hard, and make sure you're fully engauged before you give it gas. The clutch slipping is caused by a heavy glaze which eliminates friction. It's the thing that makes clutches and brakes last longer. The break-in period is to form the friction surface to the friction plate and to build a glaze on the friction plate which will prevent wear durring heavier friction. If you power-slip your clutch while taking off (3k clutch drop), it gives you a big boost of power, but it will also cause glazing and you don't want to do that until you've fully broken in the clutch, but if you do, then you can check out that DIY on degazing your clutch I wrote. It should help some.
Be careful out there, I love your car.
09-10-2008, 02:21 PM
#46
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Vehicle: 2000 tib
http://www.bullyclutch.com/
They make what ever you ask for. Its the same clutch Gary ran, But I'll be pushin it more this time,so I'm having a 4 built on thursday. Last was clutch delivered to me in 3 days!,I don't have a regulator yet,so meth is on soon as it sees boost 02.gif
They make what ever you ask for. Its the same clutch Gary ran, But I'll be pushin it more this time,so I'm having a 4 built on thursday. Last was clutch delivered to me in 3 days!,I don't have a regulator yet,so meth is on soon as it sees boost 02.gif
09-10-2008, 09:31 PM
#47
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
So its about $500? Comes with PP and TOB I'm assuming? Hard to find info on that site. Interested though. Let me know how engagement is on the Stage 4 and how it holds and drives.
09-12-2008, 02:42 PM
#48
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Vehicle: 2000 tib
^ Yes,comes with pp and tob., Just off the line with bully, New stage 4 clutch should be here tuesday. They said the clutch was fine ,just could'nt hold the power. I think I'm the first to need their stage 4 in a hyundai lol,..I know of quite a few cars around here using bully 4's and have never had any issues,so I should be fine. I'll post a report after installed and tested.
