Random or anyone that has a Turbo Charged Tibby!
02-05-2002, 04:16 PM
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Random or anyone that has a Turbo Charged Tibby!
Since im installing my Turbo kit in 3 weeks i want the best possible Cone filter avaliable for Turbo Cars.
Im installing my Alpine kit and want a good Cone Filter and where to purchase it!
Who makes the best Cone Filter?
A part number as would be helpful Thanks!!
Im installing my Alpine kit and want a good Cone Filter and where to purchase it!
Who makes the best Cone Filter?
A part number as would be helpful Thanks!!
02-07-2002, 01:18 PM
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Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
http://www.sbfilters.com/s_b_catlg.pdf
http://www.autophysics.com/powerstack.html
[ February 07, 2002: Message edited by: Random ]
http://www.autophysics.com/powerstack.html
[ February 07, 2002: Message edited by: Random ]
02-07-2002, 02:40 PM
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Thanks for your help guys!!
Random what inch base do i put on with the Alpine piping.I believe the piping is 2inches but which K&n part number would it be?
Or can any size be ok and just tighten it to the piping
Random what inch base do i put on with the Alpine piping.I believe the piping is 2inches but which K&n part number would it be?
Or can any size be ok and just tighten it to the piping
02-08-2002, 12:06 PM
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I don't use a K&N. In my opinion, they are over priced.
I reccomend the Autophysics "power stack". Go with a 2.5" opening and go with a filter that is 8" long for a turbo.
I reccomend the Autophysics "power stack". Go with a 2.5" opening and go with a filter that is 8" long for a turbo.
02-10-2002, 01:12 AM
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2 Uniq, I have had great luck with my Ractive filter. Flows well and cleans easy ( I used the K&N kit )
It's cheap too, and the nozzle design allows for interesting mounting options that I can't otherwise to because of my "Rev. A" Tib.
good luck,
ac
It's cheap too, and the nozzle design allows for interesting mounting options that I can't otherwise to because of my "Rev. A" Tib.
good luck,
ac
02-10-2002, 03:00 AM
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Whats "wrong" with the $20.00 filters from like Pepboys, Auto Zone..and such? I switch mine out every 5k miles or so..if it needs it or not...no need to bother with cleaning..but can if wanted to....just my thoughts..
02-10-2002, 03:39 PM
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Nothing "wrong" with them per se. I have heard horror stories about folks who had cheap "APC" filter who had the "top" of the air filter fall off, allowing unfiltered air directly in the engine.
If you go cheap, I've seen Spectre filters and used them, and they've held up fairly well in my opinion. However, with the "severe duty" of a turbo, I would reccomend a quality filter that will not colapse under high suction/vacuum. K&N Filters have a "rubber" top. This top gets very soft when used in "high heat" locations. This causes the filter to 'colapse' in on itself durring high vacuum conditions, NOT a good quality in your air filter.
Go with an air filter that has an "open" design top. This means the filter has added filter medium on the top of the filter, in addition to the filter medium on the sides. The "metal top" units (like APC) can fall off. The "rubber top" units like K&N can colapse.
That being said, K&N does carry some "cone" style filters rather than "tube" style. The "cone" style are much less likely to "colapse", as they have a much narrower top, and it seems to be braced/built much better.
I am NOT a fan of "reactive heat shield" filters. IMHO they are POINTLESS. The "heat shield" is 100% worthless. The air that is sucked in is still from within the general vicincity of the filter, and thus is the same temp! How is that shield protecing the filter from heat? (answer...it's not). All that heat shielding is also a severe restriction in air flow. It defeats the purpose of having a "high flow" filter element if you surround the "high flow" filter element with a shield, and force it to suck through a 4" or 5" opening. The whole point of a "high flow" filter element is to allow the filter to suck in air from 360 degrees around the filter, and do it with the least restriction to air flow.
Stay away from "Reactive heat shield" Filters.
While we are on the subject. There are starting to be more and more "foam" core filters on the market. HKS, Weapon-R and "Monster flow" are probably the best brand names. I do NOT reccomend ANY type of Foam Filter Element. The foam filter element can melt at high engine temps. It can and does break down when it comes into contact with petrolium based products. (motor oil, gas). And they also break down faster than "cotton gauze" style filters like the K&N. K&N backs their "cotton gauze" filters with a 1,000,000 mile warranty. NONE of the foam filter manufacturers do that. Why? The Foam does not like engine heat. FOAM does not like petrolium products (combustion by-products still contain petrolium based hydrocarbons).
So in My opinon...
Stay away from normal K&N
If you must buy a K&N, buy a "cone" filter not a "Tube" filter.
Stay away from "Reactive heat shield" filters
Stay away from "foam core" filters
Sway away from "metal topped" filters...
If you go cheap, I've seen Spectre filters and used them, and they've held up fairly well in my opinion. However, with the "severe duty" of a turbo, I would reccomend a quality filter that will not colapse under high suction/vacuum. K&N Filters have a "rubber" top. This top gets very soft when used in "high heat" locations. This causes the filter to 'colapse' in on itself durring high vacuum conditions, NOT a good quality in your air filter.
Go with an air filter that has an "open" design top. This means the filter has added filter medium on the top of the filter, in addition to the filter medium on the sides. The "metal top" units (like APC) can fall off. The "rubber top" units like K&N can colapse.
That being said, K&N does carry some "cone" style filters rather than "tube" style. The "cone" style are much less likely to "colapse", as they have a much narrower top, and it seems to be braced/built much better.
I am NOT a fan of "reactive heat shield" filters. IMHO they are POINTLESS. The "heat shield" is 100% worthless. The air that is sucked in is still from within the general vicincity of the filter, and thus is the same temp! How is that shield protecing the filter from heat? (answer...it's not). All that heat shielding is also a severe restriction in air flow. It defeats the purpose of having a "high flow" filter element if you surround the "high flow" filter element with a shield, and force it to suck through a 4" or 5" opening. The whole point of a "high flow" filter element is to allow the filter to suck in air from 360 degrees around the filter, and do it with the least restriction to air flow.
Stay away from "Reactive heat shield" Filters.
While we are on the subject. There are starting to be more and more "foam" core filters on the market. HKS, Weapon-R and "Monster flow" are probably the best brand names. I do NOT reccomend ANY type of Foam Filter Element. The foam filter element can melt at high engine temps. It can and does break down when it comes into contact with petrolium based products. (motor oil, gas). And they also break down faster than "cotton gauze" style filters like the K&N. K&N backs their "cotton gauze" filters with a 1,000,000 mile warranty. NONE of the foam filter manufacturers do that. Why? The Foam does not like engine heat. FOAM does not like petrolium products (combustion by-products still contain petrolium based hydrocarbons).
So in My opinon...
Stay away from normal K&N
If you must buy a K&N, buy a "cone" filter not a "Tube" filter.
Stay away from "Reactive heat shield" filters
Stay away from "foam core" filters
Sway away from "metal topped" filters...