Im getting a high volume pump anyway. Forget what brand it is.

And I just took away some material where the bearings go on the very edge. Its actually what the instructions in the box tell you to do so I should be fine. The machine shop checked all clearances as far as other parts on the block and said I have plenty so we will see. As of now though everything is going very well besides this and I have it figured out.

And I agree on MJ needing to share more info and parts!

 

Hmm...Only sheets that came with my rods was one saying block clearencing might be needed and weight specs of rods. Where exactly did you machine? Just the outer edges of the big end diameter? You have to be careful not to take too much off because of the precise match balancing.

 

On that same sheet it said:

Crank rod journals may have deformed or have oversized radii which may interfere with the rod bearings or rod itself. Correct before proceeding.

It was even circled. I just took a little bit off. Nothing that will throw the balancing off or any of that.

 

I had the same issue 3 years ago when i built my motor and you have to notch the block to make clearance of the Rods.
Just notch the bottom of the block which isnt a big deal........I cant remember how much was notched but if you do a search i posted pics on my setup..Just make sure you get someone that knows what the doing and a reputable shop.I heard some stories of actually hitting the journals while notching ..
Dont be scared to notch a bit extra to give lots of clearance because the crank will flex
Hope this helps cool.gif

 

Any idea on where those pics are? I dont seem to have an issue with the block at all. Its just the side to side with the journals to the crank. I did see JonGTRs thread about the rods hitting a little but I dont see an issue on mine and the machine shop checked for that as well.

Ill have to double and triple check on the block where the crank bolts to. Maybe there is a little clearance issue there that I havent seen. This will be rechecked many times before install.

 

This sounds like Pauter is referring to the Crankshaft Rod Bearing journals. If so then that is the problem I orginally had. It sounds like they are saying that its possible the crank itself may need minor maching and/or polishing. I called and talked to them about the problem if the rod is too wide. They said if that's the case DO NOT use any type of sander to make it smaller. They recommend either sending the rods back to them for machining or taking it to a machine shop and have them put the rods on a mill to shave down the sides of the big end. Its very important that you have a nice flat smooth surface on both sides of the big end of the rod.

 

I would notch the block either way! My rods didn't hit the block either when it was assembled. But it definately hits when running. It's almost impossible to see the lower cylinder when everything is installed because the big end gets in the way when it's rotated into position. It makes it impossible to get a real measurement.
It's better to do it and not need it, than to not think you need it and F it up when running. It's not that big of a job.

 

Ill dig up your pics Jon and check it out. And also, they will be put on a mill, not just using a file or anything.

 

Like JonGtr mentioned you should notch the block to be on the safe side....
My guy did say the clearnce was tight so he notched it anyways to make clearnce because as i mentioned the crank will defently flex and after all the hard work to put it together id say notch each cylinder at the bottom to be on the safe side fing02.gif

 

you need to have AT LEAST 1/16" between the rods and block
rods side play on the crank need to be about 0.010" (comfirm with hma service)
rod bearing clearance for a engine that will be abused needs to be in teh 0.00175 to 0.002" range