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Pauter Rods Help!

Old May 28, 2008 | 06:26 PM
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So Im assembling my motor. Got the crank in fine and put the pistons and rods together. Put the pistons in and went to bolt the rods to the crank. Tightened them down and realized it got really hard to turn the crank. Loosened them and it was fine. When torqued, crank movement is not even possible without a lot of force.

Anyway the Rod cap is hitting the crankshaft. There should be about .018 of clearance there and there is none. Has anyone had this issue at all? I am thinking I can just take some of the material off of the cap to get it to fit how it should but I wasnt expecting this.

I am hoping the explanation is good enough but can try to get some pictures if needed. Just seeing if anyone else had this happen and what they did for it. And if my idea will work and be safe. Thanks
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Old May 28, 2008 | 07:32 PM
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i have heard that when you install those rod (pauter) you have to grind the engine cassing(block) sorry i'm french i don't know how to translate that.
Ask Denisst about it
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Old May 28, 2008 | 08:43 PM
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You need to machine it down. You have to do it on all the pauters AFAIK.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 10:23 PM
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QUOTE
Anyway the Rod cap is hitting the crankshaft. There should be about .018 of clearance there and there is none. Has anyone had this issue at all


what do you mean?
are the rod too large to fit on the rod throws? aka you don't have sideplay?

you will also need 90% of time to grind away some material on the lower part of the cylinder to clear the pauter mucho large beams
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Old May 28, 2008 | 10:35 PM
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Ya, no sideplay. And I was just worried about grinding it down but then I found a sheet in the box saying that it would likely be needed. So this is here for anyone who searches now. Thanks guys.

Problem fixed.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 03:47 AM
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johnGTR ran into this same problem earlier this year, you can actually see the carnage that happened, nasty scars on the block.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 06:02 AM
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^ yup i was about to say that to you need to talk to jon on that. also you need to set the clearance on the mains plastage gage it and set it so 0.76mm also when and if you change the oil pump use a XD VVT oil pump it has a higer output when you do this pull the 24mm oil pressure relif valve out and put a 10mm nut at the base of the spring. this will up the pressure on the pump and give you a more stable oil pressure at the higher revs.. we have been doing it here since the begainning..
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:15 AM
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As usual Mad John, you guys do a ton of stuff regularly that we know nothing about. NONE of you guys do DIY's for us, we've been waiting on some of them for years.

If you got off your ass and did that, along with actually shipping items or starting a store, you'd be unstoppable.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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I had a similar problem on my Beta 2 build. It turns out the radial curve on the rod journals was a lot larger than the chamfers on the rods so it was binding as soon as I torqed down the rods bolts. I had to send them back to Pauter to have the rod chamfers re-done. I just got them back the other day so hopefully they will bolt down fine and not bind. How did you fix yours?
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Old May 29, 2008 | 01:38 PM
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I actually had the problem almost 2 years ago, but I'm lazy and still haven't machined the block yet. Eventually.........

But, I did check for play when I first put the block together. It cleared by hand, but when I ran the motor, it just barely knicked the cyl walls. Guess there's a lot more play when it's rotating 3krpm. duh


I always shim my pumps relief springs. But a small washer is more than enough to bump it up a bit. You don't want to put too large of a shim in it.

I could see the XD pumps needing more volume since they need more pressure in the head, especially for the CVVT. But, IDK if I'd go out of my way to get one. Just make a few calls for availability and see if it's worth the cost to you.
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