NEW DYNO RESULTS - UPDATE as of today 01/23/03
#11
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sup guys, well I just got an update, seems it's working they just did a dyno at 264 whp, I didn't ask for the torque... this would still be under 10-11psi... and it seems to be holding much nicer than before.
They will be upping the boost now, to about 14-15psi... and we'll see how it does, I asked him, to please just take it easy, I don't want the engine to blow for no reasons... although I trust Chris with the pistons, it's just me being all freaked out... you guys should hear and see how the ENGINE sounds and moves during all these dynos, so I'm hoping it's still fresh... :::crossing fingers, knocking on wood, praying::: that nothing happens
AHHHHHHHHH UPDATE: they won't be able to finish today, they had left the car resting before going higher, and now it's too late, so It'll sleep there overnight, and they will do it all tomorrow...
[ January 23, 2003, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: Bat Lord ]
They will be upping the boost now, to about 14-15psi... and we'll see how it does, I asked him, to please just take it easy, I don't want the engine to blow for no reasons... although I trust Chris with the pistons, it's just me being all freaked out... you guys should hear and see how the ENGINE sounds and moves during all these dynos, so I'm hoping it's still fresh... :::crossing fingers, knocking on wood, praying::: that nothing happens
AHHHHHHHHH UPDATE: they won't be able to finish today, they had left the car resting before going higher, and now it's too late, so It'll sleep there overnight, and they will do it all tomorrow...
[ January 23, 2003, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: Bat Lord ]
#12
Hey batlord, how is the idle? rough? smooth? normal?
What kinda correction are you running at the 1000rpms mark for the idle?
also, what ingition timing correct if any are you running at idle?
thanks
[ January 23, 2003, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: Shadohh ]
What kinda correction are you running at the 1000rpms mark for the idle?
also, what ingition timing correct if any are you running at idle?
thanks
[ January 23, 2003, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: Shadohh ]
#13
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sorry, I'm not there, I dropped off the car at the tuning shop, and I just called to see how everything was going... haven't been there yet...
from way back I had to up the idle to about 1200 rpms, cause the SAFC wasn't helping down below the 1k mark...
from way back I had to up the idle to about 1200 rpms, cause the SAFC wasn't helping down below the 1k mark...
#14
well no, even thou the point is at 1000, it affects 500 above it and 500 below it.
if you idle at 800, and you have -50% correct at 1000rpm point.
It will show up at idle.
Call them and find out those questions for me please.
if you idle at 800, and you have -50% correct at 1000rpm point.
It will show up at idle.
Call them and find out those questions for me please.
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Wow, peaky. sad.gif
I'm sure its fun after 4000-4500rpm, but it has to have soggy transient response. Dont get caught off-boost Yuri...
I'm sure its fun after 4000-4500rpm, but it has to have soggy transient response. Dont get caught off-boost Yuri...
#17
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Awesome setup, Bat. Help me however? Can you give me the link to where I can purchase that beaut of a FAN system you have
[ January 24, 2003, 05:20 AM: Message edited by: KillerShark68 ]
[ January 24, 2003, 05:20 AM: Message edited by: KillerShark68 ]
#18
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thanks, you have to go to www.summitracing.com they have the lowest prices on these fans... it's a FLEX-A-LITE 220 series fan... I believe the code is flx220 and then you add a B, R, Y for color... but go there and you'll see...
#19
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sad.gif sad.gif
Well it happened again, he could not go to HIGH BOOST... and he had to bring the boost back down to about 10-11psi and leave it at around the same WHP as before, around 256 he said...
I asked him to please connect his OBD2 scanner (cause I couldn't get Edwins laptop to charge), and I asked him to check the MAF reading, that way we know if it's going past that 22% that we believe is the max as per Omars...
and for those that didn't know what was going on, and what I tried... talking to OMAR and Tony and Red, it was suggested to get rid of my FMU and B&M regulator... and swap it for a PAXTON or AEROMOTIVE fuel pressure regulator, it's much more tuneable... the main reason was cause from the last dyno my fuel pressure was skyrocketing to past 100PSI, more then the gauge could read... which we felt was part of the problem...
Well I purchased and swaped everything for an SX PERFORMANCE regulator, which is identical to those mentioned above... and well my pressure is now fixed, at boost to no more than 80psi, which is 10x's better, he also says the car is idling much smoother...
but the HIGH RPMS problem are still there, nothing can be done past that 4500 mark on high boost... sad.gif
now there's one question that's bogging him, and that we're looking into...
He has a feeling that the problem for some reason or another could be the ECU, since I did my auto-manual swap but never changed my ECU... he's wondering if there's a difference in readings to the MAF because of this... but in truth, since I'm the first auto-manual swap that has even reached this power here in the US, there's no way of knowing so I guess, I'll be the guinnea pig...
Well it happened again, he could not go to HIGH BOOST... and he had to bring the boost back down to about 10-11psi and leave it at around the same WHP as before, around 256 he said...
I asked him to please connect his OBD2 scanner (cause I couldn't get Edwins laptop to charge), and I asked him to check the MAF reading, that way we know if it's going past that 22% that we believe is the max as per Omars...
and for those that didn't know what was going on, and what I tried... talking to OMAR and Tony and Red, it was suggested to get rid of my FMU and B&M regulator... and swap it for a PAXTON or AEROMOTIVE fuel pressure regulator, it's much more tuneable... the main reason was cause from the last dyno my fuel pressure was skyrocketing to past 100PSI, more then the gauge could read... which we felt was part of the problem...
Well I purchased and swaped everything for an SX PERFORMANCE regulator, which is identical to those mentioned above... and well my pressure is now fixed, at boost to no more than 80psi, which is 10x's better, he also says the car is idling much smoother...
but the HIGH RPMS problem are still there, nothing can be done past that 4500 mark on high boost... sad.gif
now there's one question that's bogging him, and that we're looking into...
He has a feeling that the problem for some reason or another could be the ECU, since I did my auto-manual swap but never changed my ECU... he's wondering if there's a difference in readings to the MAF because of this... but in truth, since I'm the first auto-manual swap that has even reached this power here in the US, there's no way of knowing so I guess, I'll be the guinnea pig...
#20
Hey bro.
I am gonna type this big make sure you read it
AUTO AND MANUAL USE THE SAME ECU...SAME PART NUMBER....
You said it happened again and they could not goto high boost.
I am confused. I scroll up and I dont see at all were you explain the problem.
What is the problem you are having when you goto high boost?
Getting your SAFC and ignition setting would also help us diagnose the problem.
[ January 24, 2003, 10:15 AM: Message edited by: Shadohh ]
I am gonna type this big make sure you read it
AUTO AND MANUAL USE THE SAME ECU...SAME PART NUMBER....
You said it happened again and they could not goto high boost.
I am confused. I scroll up and I dont see at all were you explain the problem.
What is the problem you are having when you goto high boost?
Getting your SAFC and ignition setting would also help us diagnose the problem.
[ January 24, 2003, 10:15 AM: Message edited by: Shadohh ]