Well its obvious he's running rich when his A\F gauge shows rich, he's bogging down at idle, and it improves when he turns down the fuel, and he's shooting black smoke out of the exhaust...

Curious though since your running 430CC that at idle you can't turn it down to where it was stock at 230CC with -50% across the board. Must be that evil ECU.

 

My car is 1.8DOHC... my injectors are the same as the 2.0??? I always thought that my OEM injector was smaller than the 2.0..... sad.gif

whos running 440cc's??? and what are you doing to avoid this situation??

 

Well its obvious he's running rich when his A\F gauge shows rich, he's bogging down at idle, and it improves when he turns down the fuel, and he's shooting black smoke out of the exhaust...




Yeah i know he obviously is running rich...But he still needs a wideband. Maybe the computer is pulling his air fuel ratio to around 17-18:1 @ 4k rpms, f***ing shitty ecu/piggy back or he is super lean around 5500 rpms.....or what was allready pointed out maybe he running 8:1 air fuel ratio which is going ot kill the motor.....

You cant tune a car correctly or safely without a Wideband. No if's, and's or but's. lmao.gif

 

Yes. Wideband O2 data logger = your friend. And you don't have to spend hours and $$$ on the dyno to get your air/fuel ratio correct.

I think one of the best products (inexpensive) out there is the Zeitronix Wideband O2 data logger...which does about 9 hrs of data logging (even though you really don't need to spend that much time correcting your A/F ratio...or maybe you do).

 

Ok... Tomorrow is DYNO DAY..... I have an appointment in the afternoon with the DYNO.... Any DYNOAdvice for me??? the problem is that this is the last opportunity to use the DYNO because it will go back to Costa Rica.... after tomorrow.... "0" DYNO in my country for at least 1 year....

 

most important thing to do:

- now that you're boosted... make sure to strap that tiburon down really tight!!! lmao.gif tongue.gif

 

mad.gif mad.gif mad.gif mad.gif

Sooooo mad right now..... I went to the dyno..... I knew that my car was running very very rich.... With the test, He lower the SACF2 numbers a lot... 1st test: 160WHP.... 2nd test: 170WHP.... 3rd test 182WHP.... damm it boost up to 14PSI then goes down to 9PSI even 8 PSI.... have a serious boost leak..... The "DYNO Guy" told me that He likes he HP & Torque Curve.... its like a straight line Up to 182WHP without any sign to fall down.... until 5000RPM that appear the boost leak.... We checked the BOV.... and is not the problem....

Know I need an opinion an suggestion about where to find the damm leak.....

As soon as I get that leak repaired, I can expect 230WHP for sure (words from the DYNO Guy)....

Thanks to all.....

 

no doubt about it.


now, shouldn't the "know" be now?

 

Congrats on the turbo.

A turbo timer is far from being "necessary"; it's a gagdet. A nice gadget to have, maybe, but still a gadget.

T-Bolts clamps are nice too, but what you should focus on, if it's not already done, is making "rings" at the ends of each seperate pipes. THAT is mandatory. With them, the clamp (t-bold or just "normal" ones) has no chance to slide.

About your "stainless steel support for the manifold", you do not need to support the "manifold"; you need to support the turbo. I'll try to find a pic of the bracket I'm using. It's tiny, but it doesn't need to be big. It screws into one of the downpipe studs and then in the dipstick bolt on the block. The bracket is thus L-shaped.

 

I wonder where you got a leak man. Very intersted to see some numbers when it's all fixed up smile.gif