Maximum Boost
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 820
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 1997 Hyundai Tiburon
ok guys i went and bought the book Maximum Boost. Its a very good book to have. it answered allot of my questions but not all of them.
i was thinkin of goin 200 whp to start off with. low boost then gradually up it to 300+.
do least as posible then as i go replace the stuff that is too weak. i know i should just be building the engine up first and im not sure if i can do it this way soo let me know wink1.gif
also i want to keep this CARB legal wich means
-All electronic engine management functions are to remain unaltered.
-The origional catalytic converters must remain stock and and in origional position.
-Fuel system controls must function only under boost.
-Actual engine emissions must remain within CARB guidlines fo the 97 tiburon
i know it will be hard but it has to be possible or else i will have to take the turbo off every 2 years and hope it passes.
big question: whats the highest boost i can go with keeping the engine as stock as possible?
1. compression ratio: what is our stock compression? and where do i get the gaskets for the head?
2. crank shaft: is our stock crankshaft good? the book doesnt mention crank shafts too much. how much can they take? where can i get one that would handle it if it can't take it?
3. rods and pistons: i know i will need them both but how much can they take stock?
i know i will need turbo, manifold, blow off valve, wastegate, and intercooler also piping. what else will i need?
i have read up to about chapter 9 so if i ask a dumb question u know why.
nana.gif
i was thinkin of goin 200 whp to start off with. low boost then gradually up it to 300+.
do least as posible then as i go replace the stuff that is too weak. i know i should just be building the engine up first and im not sure if i can do it this way soo let me know wink1.gif
also i want to keep this CARB legal wich means
-All electronic engine management functions are to remain unaltered.
-The origional catalytic converters must remain stock and and in origional position.
-Fuel system controls must function only under boost.
-Actual engine emissions must remain within CARB guidlines fo the 97 tiburon
i know it will be hard but it has to be possible or else i will have to take the turbo off every 2 years and hope it passes.
big question: whats the highest boost i can go with keeping the engine as stock as possible?
1. compression ratio: what is our stock compression? and where do i get the gaskets for the head?
2. crank shaft: is our stock crankshaft good? the book doesnt mention crank shafts too much. how much can they take? where can i get one that would handle it if it can't take it?
3. rods and pistons: i know i will need them both but how much can they take stock?
i know i will need turbo, manifold, blow off valve, wastegate, and intercooler also piping. what else will i need?
i have read up to about chapter 9 so if i ask a dumb question u know why.
nana.gif
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 0
From: Benton, LA
Vehicle: 2015 Subaru WRX
If I remember right the rods and pistons are good for 300 to 350 hp and as for psi I thi we were safe with 10... dont quote me though... I know that there are special cases/people out there that got up to 15 psi on stock internals.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,764
Likes: 0
From: South Korea where u car from fool
Vehicle: 2008/Hyundai/Tiburon gt
1. you change you rods to 1.8L stock rods
2. due to the shorter stroke you can boost more "safely" IMO
3. they will hole to 1.5 bar or 21 psi
this is not bullshit it has been tested and i am the one who tested it, this is what my car ran on till i got my rods and pistions from crower.
2. due to the shorter stroke you can boost more "safely" IMO
3. they will hole to 1.5 bar or 21 psi
this is not bullshit it has been tested and i am the one who tested it, this is what my car ran on till i got my rods and pistions from crower.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,694
Likes: 0
He might as well change to low comp pistons if he's gonna open up his engine and boost up all he wants...
First of all, you will not be able to keep cats in stock positions. Turbo manifold will replace your 1st cat.
Stock compression is 10.5:1 I think. Or something similar.
Stock crank should be good for a good bit. Don't worry about it.
I wouldn't take stock pistons above 220whp, which could mean different amount of boost on different turbos. Rods are probably good for up to 300whp.
First of all, you will not be able to keep cats in stock positions. Turbo manifold will replace your 1st cat.
Stock compression is 10.5:1 I think. Or something similar.
Stock crank should be good for a good bit. Don't worry about it.
I wouldn't take stock pistons above 220whp, which could mean different amount of boost on different turbos. Rods are probably good for up to 300whp.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
10.3:1 stock compression fing02.gif
You can boost your engine to your 200whp goal safely, with stock fueling and stock internals. ~8PSI on most turbos that you would use on that goal (T3 Super 60, T3, etc.).
Above that, the higher compression and weaker internals come into play.
As for CARB legal, not happening.
You can boost your engine to your 200whp goal safely, with stock fueling and stock internals. ~8PSI on most turbos that you would use on that goal (T3 Super 60, T3, etc.).
Above that, the higher compression and weaker internals come into play.
As for CARB legal, not happening.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
because california smog emission standards are a bunch of nazis.. drillsergeant.gif
any modification wether it passes smog or not must be "carb" approved. plain and simple
if it doesnt have the magical carb number =fail even if its cleaner than stock, companys spend millions developing parts for carb standards, and most of that money is spent on very strick testing. by carb so think of it as the companys are buying them off, i mean theres really no desighn difference between a ebay cold air intake or a aem but aem pays for the carb number so there legal.
sorry dude youll have to go my route. im having to put the car back to stock here soon too, as soon as im out of school. it sucks or you could move to a linient state like texas or wyoming....but then no california, iguess its the price you have to pay to play.
j.
or wait maybe you could do a rear mount turbo? hmm food for thught.......that way every thing would look stock but run better but wait no now you have to put your car on rollers to simulate a road test you could open up yourwastegate though for no boost just go turbo and keep your stock parts then when smog comes roll up your sleeves and get messy.
any modification wether it passes smog or not must be "carb" approved. plain and simple
if it doesnt have the magical carb number =fail even if its cleaner than stock, companys spend millions developing parts for carb standards, and most of that money is spent on very strick testing. by carb so think of it as the companys are buying them off, i mean theres really no desighn difference between a ebay cold air intake or a aem but aem pays for the carb number so there legal.
sorry dude youll have to go my route. im having to put the car back to stock here soon too, as soon as im out of school. it sucks or you could move to a linient state like texas or wyoming....but then no california, iguess its the price you have to pay to play.
j.
or wait maybe you could do a rear mount turbo? hmm food for thught.......that way every thing would look stock but run better but wait no now you have to put your car on rollers to simulate a road test you could open up yourwastegate though for no boost just go turbo and keep your stock parts then when smog comes roll up your sleeves and get messy.