Well I just got the tib out of the garage after 4 weeks of weekend work! smile.gif

1. brakes
2. front drivers side wheel bearing replaced
3. Reclock turbo (never got it just right)
4. new turbo gaskets
5. new turbo oil dump line
6. new studs in turbo manifold - old bolts snapped - TIM!!! wink1.gif
7. removed begi rrfpr (causing me to run waaay to rich with my 440's)
8. little tuning
9. moved maf to just before TB
10. swapped back to summer wheels/tires

All I have to say is HOLY CRAP! It's a whole new car. I'm boosting ~10psi now and am little lean up top because I removed that begi rrfpr (anyone wanna buy one, i JUST got this one off maeir a few months back) but I guess thats better than pegging the wideband a 10. btw, good advice dennis on the fpr! I was running 12 psi but after popping off two couplers I turned it down a bit. I'll probably try turning it up again soon since I replaced a couple reg. worm gear clamps with t-bolts.

anyways just wanted to say thanks to all the people that have been helping me out!!

 

^^^


In regards to number 9:

Did this help the car idle better? I was planning on doing this after some guys on here said that it would help my car idle better (just waiting till my silicone couplers come in the mail)

 

it seems to have helped. Sometimes it would just about die then rev back up and idle fine when stopping, doesn't do that anymore.

btw, are you turbo'd? I was refering to moving it from before the turbo to after the turbo just before the TB.

 

^^^ Yea I'm turboed and I have been having the same idle problem that you used to have. Thanks for the info!

 

when moving the maf to near the TB be cautious about a few things...

1. make sure the idle air valve is hooked up between the TB and MAF (maf needs to see all the air the engine is ingesting)
2. make sure the blow off valve is installed before the maf (you don't want the maf to see the air going trough the blow off valve)
3. if you're simply using silicone couplers,be carefull, hyundai maf housings are made out of pastic and don't have any lip to prevent the coupling from flying off,so lots of guys tend to over torque the clamps and break the maf housing
4. in reference to #3... we came up with a little piece that can be welded to your actual piping to hold the MAF element made in steel or aluminium,making the process much cleaner and safer (coupling wise)
5. Glad that the tips helped you out ;-)

 

I might be interested in that #4 when I go to redo my piping in aluminum. how much/where can I get it? I thought about the possibility of braking it so I just installed the maf with worm gear clamps, everything else in the system is t-bolt. I figured I couldn't over torque it that way.

 

im having major idel problems too...so your saying the maf can go inline right befor the tb and it might fix this....i thought it wouldent work under boost?

 

thats what alot of people said for the longest time. Now several members here have started moving it and have had good success. Also I just did a bit of searching and people are selling upgrade parts for evo's and sti's to do the same thing (like dennis's part).

btw, really when thinking about it I really think alot of the reason for the problems with idle before had to do with the recirculation of the bov being near the maf. I tried to keep it far away but that was probably contributing. It also helps out a bit with room in the engine bay. Not to mention the car still runs fine even when a hose pops off... just no boost! No draw backs at all. you can also use a non-recirculating bov, mine still recirculates though, I'm a bit leary of sucking in dirt and stuff with the location of my dsm bov.

 

i moved it tonight...it idels way better but now i have a leak somwhere....got dark and stoped looking for it. my car sounds like a bird...lol

 

Mrrrr.... looking like I might move mine too.