IHI Turbo...
05-14-2002, 09:32 AM
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IHI Turbo...
Can we use these on out 2nd gen tibby's? As I've been told they spool up faster than a T-3. Any truth to this? Or any thoughts on going with an IHI turbo?
Cliping's from AOL IM:
if you are running stock compression you should not go over 5-6 psi, and at that rate of boost an intercooler will do nothing, and you can get a small intercooler for about $80 off e-bay and screew a t-3 I do turbochargers all day long, I would go with a small IHI turbo, they spool way faster.
it would cost ya about $800-1000 tops, I just did a guys m3 for under $1000.
Just have an exhaust shop weld it all up for ya, you pipe up the intake work if your handy and have a normal shop pipe in the coolant and oil lines if you do not know how.
then run somthing like an apexi safc to give that engine a little more fuel.
just do not go nuts with boost.
keep it under 6 psi
Cliping's from AOL IM:
if you are running stock compression you should not go over 5-6 psi, and at that rate of boost an intercooler will do nothing, and you can get a small intercooler for about $80 off e-bay and screew a t-3 I do turbochargers all day long, I would go with a small IHI turbo, they spool way faster.
it would cost ya about $800-1000 tops, I just did a guys m3 for under $1000.
Just have an exhaust shop weld it all up for ya, you pipe up the intake work if your handy and have a normal shop pipe in the coolant and oil lines if you do not know how.
then run somthing like an apexi safc to give that engine a little more fuel.
just do not go nuts with boost.
keep it under 6 psi
05-14-2002, 11:11 AM
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That guy is not bright enough to trust.
1. An intercooler is a must for turbocharge application for bolt on systems because of the high compression ratio of current stock engines.
2. The exhaust manifold will be the most difficult item.. only a high end tuning shop will be able to "weld it up" for you.
3. A S-AFC alone will not be adequet for fuel. Maybe with larger injectors and some tuning time.
I will agree that you should keep the boost low for bolt on applications.
The IHI turbos he is talking about a full ball bearing units. Some came stock on turbocharged cars... but most of these are too small. A more appropriate sized IHI turbo is very expensive... $1000+. Another option is the newer Garrett full ball bearing units. Size for size the full ball bearing units will spool quicker... also may be overall more efficent because many of the non ball bearing turbos are based on very old designs.
I personally use a IHI based turbo on my RX-7. But in general most people do not use full ball bearing units because of the cost and difficult rebuild problems. I don't think that a ball bearing turbo is necessary for a Tibby unless you want to run a HUGE strip only turbo.
1. An intercooler is a must for turbocharge application for bolt on systems because of the high compression ratio of current stock engines.
2. The exhaust manifold will be the most difficult item.. only a high end tuning shop will be able to "weld it up" for you.
3. A S-AFC alone will not be adequet for fuel. Maybe with larger injectors and some tuning time.
I will agree that you should keep the boost low for bolt on applications.
The IHI turbos he is talking about a full ball bearing units. Some came stock on turbocharged cars... but most of these are too small. A more appropriate sized IHI turbo is very expensive... $1000+. Another option is the newer Garrett full ball bearing units. Size for size the full ball bearing units will spool quicker... also may be overall more efficent because many of the non ball bearing turbos are based on very old designs.
I personally use a IHI based turbo on my RX-7. But in general most people do not use full ball bearing units because of the cost and difficult rebuild problems. I don't think that a ball bearing turbo is necessary for a Tibby unless you want to run a HUGE strip only turbo.
05-14-2002, 06:34 PM
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Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
If money were no object, then yes, the IHI or Garret ball bearing turbo's are the way to go.
But for the small displacement/low boost, there is no real point in spending $1000 for a turbo when you can buy one for under $200 that works nearly as well, and spend that $800 somewhere else. Like a REAL engine managment solution rather than just an S-AFC and 4 larger injectors.
But for the small displacement/low boost, there is no real point in spending $1000 for a turbo when you can buy one for under $200 that works nearly as well, and spend that $800 somewhere else. Like a REAL engine managment solution rather than just an S-AFC and 4 larger injectors.
05-16-2002, 02:01 PM
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Hmm, I guess you're taking about a used turbo for $200, because if it's not the case and you can get something like a T3 for 200$ brand new, PM me or something and I'll send you the money! smile.gif
05-17-2002, 07:33 AM
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I hate to display ignorance but there's no cure but knowledge...
Do "normal" turbos use a bushing? Or are the ball-bearing units just something special compared to normal bearings in a turbo? Seems awful fast to spin something on a hot bushing...
Do "normal" turbos use a bushing? Or are the ball-bearing units just something special compared to normal bearings in a turbo? Seems awful fast to spin something on a hot bushing...
05-17-2002, 07:45 AM
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Non-ball bearing turbos use something called a "sleeve bearing", which in essence is the same method used by main bearings and rod bearings. A piece of very smooth metal with an oil feed hole drilled in it so that the rotating mass rides NOT on the metal but on the oil film.
But unfortunately, if you let the turbo get too hot, the oil can break down enough to start letting the center axle component wear against the bearing and either eventually wear it out (ie kinda like rod knock) or seize.
But unfortunately, if you let the turbo get too hot, the oil can break down enough to start letting the center axle component wear against the bearing and either eventually wear it out (ie kinda like rod knock) or seize.