A while back, there was speculation about the block needing to be machined at the base of the cylinders for clearance of the MUCH wider Pauter rods. I believe this was by 2uniq's machine shop and they did it just in case.
Well, as I put together my block, I started to machine one cylinder, but got tired and decided to check for myself. It seemed as if there was plenty of clearance, and it never made a sound when I rotated it. Mind you that it is almost impossible to see in that area.
So I decided not to complete the grinding and installed the motor. After a few miles I started to hear a faint knock. I drove the car another day and eventually spun a bearing. I decided that something wasn't measured correctly at the journal, so it spun on its own. So I remeasured it, put another bearing in, and tried again. Once again, I spun a bearing, and all of them seemed loose. I couldn't deal with this, so I put a stocker back in.

More than a year passes by.......

I just got done putting the motor on a stand and tore it apart. I looked in the rod area, and what do I find?











Notice the small knicks in the center of the rods?
It seems that I didn't think to figure in the flex of the rod as it rotates. Duh me. Even the area where I started to machine, and got about 1/8" to 1/4" deep, wasn't enough clearance. You may need to go almost 1/2" deep to clear.
So, as the rod rotates and hits the block, it puts pressure on the bearings, which caused them to get eaten.
Well, I'm off to tear it apart again and make sure everything is perfect..........again. tired.gif

 

Dang, that sux, no other damage tho?

This is your built motor obviously, does this mean your going to swap it back in there?

 

I will once it gets back together. Then I can boost the hell out of it.

I think I've maxed the stock motor because of the compression. I'm blowing out the spark even with the MSD, so there's no point in using it anymore.

 

Sounds like a good plan, but hell, over 300 crank horsepower ain't bad for a completely stock beta, you've proven a strong point that's huge for the community.

 

depends on the engine block...
i`ve put some in beta1 in wich i had to notch the lower part of the cylinder a lot
some beta1 in wich i didn`t need to noth anything
most beta2 so far seam to clear

but in any case,whenever installing non-stock components you need to check and recheck clearances everywhere

blowing out the spark? what was it doing? a large bang past a certain boost?
btw, how much boost where you hitting on the stock beta?

 

So when I put the Pauters in my beta2 I should be ok? This has me worrying now. Let me know what I should do because Im hoping it lasts

 

 

well... damn that sucks...


guess I'm glad I had my shop notch out the base of the cylinders when I had my pauter's put in

 

Guys, I DID notch it out, but apparently not enough. The assembly rotates freely without notching. But I went ahead and took out 1/4" in each cylinder, yet it still hit.
Nothing's wrong with the motor or rods though. I sent everything to the shop for checking, and I should be getting it back today or tomorrow. It was a mistake, but not a costly one.

 

Well, i had no ideal eather dammit Jon!! i have 2 rods from Crower and pauter that came out of a skyline both are #6 and both are shot.. but the Pauter rod has turned blue and blace on the end cap and the top as well... and so i looked and GODDAM that rod was hitting in the same spot as well.. this is bad very bad..


jon you just found out why all the korean in korea that used them rods hate them. i never understood how so may people could blow shit up. the shop owners went mad,coustomers left, no one here knew about this i mean NONE