Turbo & Supercharge (Forced Induction) Posts regarding Turbochargers, Superchargers and any other method for Forced Induction.

Getting a boost project started

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Old 01-17-2011, 03:23 PM
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Default Getting a boost project started

Ok, so I've been looking and I believe I've figured out most of the parts I need. I'm lookin to run on stock internals, at about 10-12 psi, making around 250whp.



List:



Turbo: Probably going with a garrett t3 50trim 48ar



Manifold: I'm probably going to have a custom turbo manifold made, if anyone has suggestions they would be greatly apreciated. Downpipe I will have a local shop custom fab, along with probably upgrading my exhaust from 2.5" to 3".



Injectors : I was thinking the mustang 440cc green tops.



Fuel Pump: I'm thinkin a walbro 190lph should be fine for what I'm wanting. I read that the stock FPR can handle this pump, but I was thinking about upping it anyway, oppinons?



Piping: I was looking at one of the pipings for sell on the classifieds, that came with the BOV and Intercooler, for like 300 i think it was.



Fuel Tuner : I should be able to run a piggyback, if I'm not mistaken, which would be the safer route for me because I don't have any tuning experience, and don't want to drop 4-500$ for a tune everytime I want to change something.



Wideband : Not really sure about this part, any suggestions?



Turbo Timer : I've seen an automatic/manual turbo timer, and another for sale on here and was thinkin about getting one of them. Otherwise, any preferred brands or brands to stay away from?



Clutch : For now I was going to run my stock clutch, since I'm only going to pull around 200-250whp, but was thinkin a 4-puck or stage 3 clutchnet eventually.



Boost Controller: Drawin a blank here, I read that spring loaded is recommended, oppinions?



Oil cooler: Havn't gotten around to this yet, but I was plannin on running one just to be on the safe side. reccomendations?



Accessories: Gauges, t-bolt clamps,couplings, oil feed line, oil return line, water lines if turbo is water cooled, oil fitting for oil pan, and of course colder plugs.





Ok, for those of you who took the time to read all of this, I apologize. I try to be very thorough when I do things to my car, as I've had bad experiences with 'em in the past. Any criticism, comments, suggestions, advice, etc. is welcome. I'm expecting this to be about a year project or so, as I'm tryin to get it done while I'm in college and have the extra money.
Old 01-17-2011, 03:38 PM
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take a look at the list of parts in my stage IV kit on my site and that should give you a good idea of a list to put together.



heres a free spoonfed link: tiburon turbo kit



has all the things you would need, gauges, tuning, injector sizes, etc. should get you well on your way for piecing together a kit.




Turbo: I would go with a small t3/t4 or at LEAST s t3 super 60



Manifold: Treadstone.. built like a TANK, not junk tubular steel with fitment issues like the cheap ebay manifolds



Injectors : 44lb accel would be my recommendation, not a fan of used injectors.



Fuel Pump: go with a 255lph pump and a FPR setup



Piping: if your talking about that GK piping, not sure it will work the same in your engine bay, but it might, just not sure about clearances on the radiator and such. might work, but you would have to confirm



Fuel Tuner : AEM FIC, simple, effective



Wideband : UEGO.. perfect match for the AEM FIC



Turbo Timer : turbo timers are pretty generic, a cheap ebay one should do you fine. if you go watercooled, no need for turbo timer.



Clutch : ACT 4 or6-puc sprung should be fine, or the upgraded DXD or a million others



Boost Controller: for a boost controller, you can build one easily or just get a cheap one, they are pretty simple devices. (manual anyway)



Oil cooler: wont need to bother on an oil cooler in my opinion unless your always on the throttle


again, just look at that link and you will have all the info you need to build an entire kit, as that is an entire kit.



my suggestion, do things right the first time, spend money where people suggest and don't skimp on vital parts and you should be good.



if it seems overwhelming, you could just buy a kit and the only worry you would have is getting a downpipe fabbed up. everything else bolts right up.
Old 01-17-2011, 07:59 PM
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The IC and piping kit is mine, im not sure if it will fit like it does in mine, the piping wraps right around the edges of the radiator. If you are familiar with the front end setup of your car then take a good look at the photos in the actual FS thread, they should give you a good idea of how much space you require.
Old 01-17-2011, 08:20 PM
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I have an Rd, and both hot and cold, wrap around the Radiator. Just a little help... Also i am running 3" and didnt have to cut with the exception of about a half inch on the driver side, just to make sure it wouldnt rub and make a hole in my IC piping...







I would say this would work out....
Old 01-17-2011, 11:08 PM
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First off i would like to say you will benefit if you pay close attention to the veterans giving you solid advice.



A few weeks prior to doing anything to your car get the piggyback all wired and setup. This is really important because you know how to car acts on a day to day basis, and you want to maintain that drivability after the piggyback has been installed so drive around with it hooked up for a few weeks.



If your going to skimp on parts Dont skimp on the wastegate

( i have heard alot of horror stories about knockoff wastegates sticking, however i have also heard of people using them with out any problems)





Turbo:garrett t3 50trim 48ar ( tanc has a nice 20g for sale)



Manifold: Custom is cool but it might be cheaper to refab an obx.



wastegate: 38 mm tial



Injectors : 440cc green tops.( i have some i could sell you)



Fuel Pump: If your going to upgrade the fpr might aswell go with the 255lph fuel pump



Piping, couplers, bov, and clamps: I bought my intercooler and piping from socks and it was a real peace of mind buy because he pretty much had the cold side done already for me.



Fuel Tuner : Aem fic for sure. But with the dyno tuning aspect, you cant go wrong man. I felt much safer getting my tune from someone who knows what they are doing.



Wideband : Since i have and aem fic i went with aem wideband.



Turbo Timer : Dont need it, just let you car cool down before shutting it off. This is somthing you can add later.



Clutch : 4 puc will wear faster than a regular disc, and at 250 i would say if you like act go with the street disc.



Boost Controller: halman boost controler, its manual and really simple.



Oil cooler: Not needed, but nice peace of mind for drag racing.



Oil lines: can be put together from jegs, i wouldn't go with bulk head fitting because the nylon ring when heated shrinks and loosens the bolt. ( you can go back in and tighten it but it seems to get loose often.) I switched to weld in oil drain.



Oil sandwich plate: for oil feed and oil pressure gauge ( it will be more time and effort to get the oil else where) And it looks tacky to me imo



fpr: aeromotive rising rate



Plugs: i would say ngk heat range 7





your welcome
Old 01-18-2011, 08:50 AM
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good point on getting the FIC in the car before you boost. this is a GREAT piece of advice. It will help you nail down any problems (if there are any) with the wiring or setup before you add an entire Forced Induction system, fuel injectors, FPR, fuel pump, etc. to the mix.
Old 01-18-2011, 09:25 AM
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Boost Gauge - We offer 15 different ones from mechanical for $38 to Premium electric Halo with peak/warning for $95.00

Boost Controller: Prosport MBC



Wideband: We offer 6 widebands all of which can data-log. Prosport Wideband



Oil Cooler: adaptor plate includes with 2 ports for oil temp and oil pressure senders Prosport oil cooler
Old 01-19-2011, 08:48 AM
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The prosport boost controller is cheaper than the hallman MBC, and as I stated, boost controllers are pretty simple so I would look into prosports.



I also sell oil coolers if you are dead set on getting one. 180$ shipped with any options you want.



I offer a ton of different options on the oil coolers as well.





You can choose the size of the oil cooler you would like:

-10AN 30 row cooler or a -8AN 16 row cooler



You can choose the length of the lines that will fit your application best:

12", 24", 36", 48" or 60"



You can choose the angle on the fittings that will work best for your setup:

Straight, 45 Degree or 90 Degree fittings



Oil sandwich adapters have 2 1/8NPT ports with plugs for oil temp, pressure or turbo oil feed





Prosports widebands use a great sensor, so the only real world difference in prosport vs. UEGO is the display. The Prosports give you a wider range of options as far as visual which is nice.
Old 01-20-2011, 06:03 PM
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Hmm, as of right now I'm saving up for turbosocks' stage 3 kit, I may get the oil cooler, but I'll probably wait until I get everything in and know how much room I have, so I can figure out where I'd mount it, as well as how much hose I need and what angle on the connectors.



Also, thanks for all the advice, especially about hooking the tuning system up BEFORE the turbo. I hadn't thought of that, but that is a very smart idea. I'll be ordering it all at the same time, so when I get the tuning system in, then I can get an idea as to whether or not I'll need to get anything fabbed or if I'll need to move anything around in my engine bay.



The only sad part, is how long it will probably take me to save the money, haha. Being in college I can only work so much, due to scheduling. But, I'm hopin by mid to late this year to be able to finally order it.



In opinion, how hard is the FIC and UEGO to wire in? or is it pretty straight forward? How advanced are the wiring diagrams? etc.



Really appreciate all the advice!





Edit: Can a wideband, such as prosports or the uego, be wired in without the tuning system? I realize there may not be much of a point to doing this, but I was thinking about ordering a wideband, and then a tuning system, that way I'm not spending a ton of money all at once. My money seems to disappear when I try to save it.
Old 01-20-2011, 07:26 PM
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the UEGO is pretty much plug n play, the only thing you will need to do is have a bung welded in your exhaust, before the second (under car) cat



is your exhaust stock, or bigger than stock..



once you have the bung welded in, you thread in the sensor and route the harness inside the cabin and put the gauge wherever you want, then for logging you just tap the 'log' wire into the FIC.



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