ICV is working properly and I had this issue when I had ITBs and there was no ICV at that time.



It should be something electric ... today is a cool , rainy day and not a single problem with the car. The problem occurs 90% when the car is hot. I mean even if the engine is cold, but the car is hot it is still bad.



I know a lot of car guys and nobody can give me an accurate advice.



To sum it up:



New spark plugs, leads and coils.

New crank sensor

MAP ICV - working fine.

The problem is there with 2 sets of injectors.

FPR is ok

02 sensor is reading 14.6-14.8 all the time.

TPS is bosch and the resistance was 1.07 to 2.70 ohm / Volts at idle 0.47 and 4.26 at WOT

It almost sounds like a dead spot in the TPS sensor. I wonder if you just removed the TPS tap you have for the SMT8 and see if the problem goes away. Sometimes a line tap can cause weird things to happen to the resistance values. For a turbo car you should be running the MAP sensor signal into the TPS input line anyways since turbo power isn't linear.

I tested the TPS 5-6 times. It is smooth as f*ck ! Also as you know I can monitor the TPS , I can see the input and the output.



You are damn right I will be running the MAP signal instead of the TPS.

It's a log shoot, but have you change the temperature sensors? Since it only happens when it's hot.

Nope, but I will check them also. I will be more than happy to see something that is not working properly :)

The plug on the coolant temp senDer is not looking good. This is the sh*t next to the coolant temp senSor !!! Dafuq ?!



http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/coupe/ser...d=12079#_12079



It's raining pretty bad so I will take pic later. I think it is not connecting right.

The Sender is only for the cluster, the computer uses the Sensor.

Thank you for the tip ;)



Tomorrow will check the sensor :thumbup:

Just to confirm, the Sender is one cable, the sensor is two cables.

Yep :thumbup:

Just want to add that if you tapped the SMT8 into either it will jack with the resistance values and therefore the temp they report back which if you tapped into the Sensor will mess with what coolant temp the ECU is seeing which will affect the tune.

Sensor is checked and is ok. I had this problem when SMT8 wasn't installed.



Out of options for now ...

I know you've said the SMT8 isn't the problem but the only way to know for sure is to completely uninstall it and take everything back to stock.

As I wrote it very clear " I had this problem before the SMT8 was installed " !!!



Ran the car tonight and it was really f*cked up! At a certain throttle possition the car just bogs... if I keep the same throttle possition it stays like this ?! You have to press the gas pedal harder or you have to let off.



I'm sick of this sh*t and when I have time I will check all releys and wirings :banghead2:

What MAP sensor are you running? Stock? (sorry if that is somewhere in the other 6 pages - i missed it).

Yes, stock MAP sensor. Nothing to be sorry about ;)

If the problem only happens at a certain TPS voltage then you need to verify with a volt meter and OBD scanner that what voltage the TPS sensor is outputting is actually what the stock ECU is seeing. Just because you had the issue before the SMT8 doesn't mean its not contributing to the problem.



When faced with a problem that has multiple variables that could be the cause its best to eliminate as many variables as you can to determine the root cause.

Have you tried another ECU?

03tibe85 - I'm sure it's the same. I'm eliminating them one by one, but I thought by now that the problem would have been solved.



New spark plugs, leads and coils means the spark is 99% ok. I don't know why , but from the beginning of this sh*t I think that its fuel related !

A guy that I know had the similar issues with his BMW and he said that it was his fuel pump. Asked me if the problem is getting worse when the level of fuel is low and the answer is yes ! He is sure that is the pump. I will connect wires to it so I can monitor the voltage non stop. If the voltage is ok will hook a fuel pressure gauge to be 100% sure.



Juarana - I did not, but it is the next step :thumbup:



Thank you guys for the help :beercheers:

I thought you rules out the fuel pump!

I know that when they die the car can't even start, but I'm not sure if the electrical sh*t is ok.

Hard to keep track of what has and has not been tried. Keep reading conflicting information, but yeah if the problem gets worse as the fuel level goes down then its either a pump problem or the pump pickup is clogged or not able to reach down into the gas tank properly.

Don't start again...



The pump pick up is able to reach down and I know this for a fact. If its clogged please tell me why it's f*cking things up only at certain tps and at low rpms ?



Still waiting for the wide band to be delivered from UK. Tomorrow will have free time and will work on the intercooler piping.



A lot of sh*t coming my way , but I will make it work :fire1:

These cars are relatively simple. You can get it. :thumbup:

Checked all relays today and everything was good ! Don't know what the f*ck is going on with this car?!



So again,



When the weather is cool the car runs ok 90% of the time, but if its hot ... oh boy ... bogs everytime when you press the gas pedal ! It does this only at low rps 2000-3000rpm and to go past this rpms you need give it a lot more gas. With more gas it misfires , shakes for a second and then goes. If you decide not to give it more gas it just stays quiet. It doesn't die, but no reaction at all !



TPS is ok, done the same sh*t with another TPS.

MAP sensor is ok

Checked the plugs AGAIN! They are new and brownish. Leads and coils NEW!

Crank sensor NEW

No vacuum leaks

O2 sensor is reading 14.6-14.8

Temp sensor is ok

FPR has been checked , but no by me.

Tried another set of injectors - same sh*t!

With the software for my piggyback I can monitor a lot of things and RPMs are not doing anything strange, so I assume that cam sensor is ok .

Tomorrow will try to find fuel pressure gauge to be 100% sure that the fuel delivery is ok.



I don't know what else to check... this stupid problem is taking my time instead of working on my turbo stuff.



If you have any ideas , please let me know. :beercheers:

Do you have stock FPR or aftermarket?



If it is stock how did you check it?

Stock FPR. The only thing I did was pull its vacuum hose to check if there is fuel inside. There was only some smell of fuel. A guy that I know owns a garage so I left the car there. He wasn't able to connect to the ECU and I told him to check the FPR. i don't know how he checked it, but I plan on doing it myself.

Will do this test : Fuel test



Any better ideas :)

I don't think you have a test port available...



If he was not able to connect to the car's ECU that a bad sign, did you swap it out?

I have T connection where my nitrous was connected ;)



he wasn't able to connect , cause my car is 97'. It's not real OBD2 it's something called EOBD if I'm not mistaken.



I reset the ECU tonight I drove the car for about 25-30 miles and not a single issue, but the weather is cool and I drove it to a grill party outside of the city. We will see tomorrow, but I'm sure that during the day when it's hot I will have a lot of problems...

Have you checked your Intake Air Temp sensor? I believe its inside the MAP sensor. You'll have to look up the resistance specs to be sure what your meter should be showing between the Ground and Signal wires.

had a very similar issue on mine a few months back, my one turned out to be the mini loom on the crank sensor. Even when stationary it would kill the revs around 2500 and cause a misfire, i had someone hold the revs while i wiggled wires. Wiggling the crank sensor loom solved it, fitted new sensor and hasn't played up since.



I know you've fitted a new sensor but it could be degraded wires in the part of the loom that connects to the sensor, they get very hot down there due to proximity of exhaust and rad fans blowing on them...worth a looksy

03tibe85 IAT is in the intake piping, befor the TB. It is connected to the SMT8 and the temp readings are ok.



rob40 Thank you for the tip ;) Will check it today, but when I fitted the new sensor I tried that whit the car ideling. Will do it your way :beercheers:



I knew that today the car will act up again... hot day so there was a ot of bogging and sh*t !!! Most of the bogging is at around 2500rpm.



I'm sure that with your help I will solve this f*cking problem. Thank you all for your time :bowdown:

At this point I would have just disconnect the TPS, run it for a while and se what happens and continue to do that with each sensor lol

Hah desperate times call for desperate measures :dunno:

That car is asking for a full programmable, I hear Haltech Elite...

My mom told me not to play with boys like you :biggrin:

I have had Haltech, SDS, Microtech, also worked on Fuel Tech, Mega Squirt, AEM, and Mitsubishi and Subaru Reflash. I prefer Haltech by far...

Maybe one day, but for now SMT8 with dual rail setup. If it's not working as I would like it to, I will sell it and buy a standalone ;)

Did you check what Intake Temp your ECU is seeing? Like I said if you tapped the SMT8 into the IAT then it could mess with the temp readings. Only way to know if the sensor is ok is to following repair manual testing of various temp vs resistance values.

Yes, the sensor is ok.



Today was again a very hot day. Decided to drive the car so I can monitor how it acts. The bogging is happening not only at 2500rpms. The problem area is 1800-3000rpms. Not a single bog at hight rpms. Very rare problems at idle. Press the gas pedal and instead of reving, the revs drop and it almost die.



Was thinking a lot about this f*cking problem and thought that I might have vacuum leak that I did not see before. Double checked all hoses, tightened the IM nuts and went for a drive... same sh*t.



Will disconnect the TPS and go for a ride later tonight!



One thing is for sure the problem is A LOT worse when is hot.