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Compression/idle/timign Problem

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Old 03-01-2009, 12:17 PM
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Hi, Im just writing up for ukdegu113 at the moment due to a problem with his internet -

Hyundai Coupe 2.0 RD2 - but with the siemans ECU and MAP sensor as per the RD1's (before the crossover)

Basically, he has had his car in with an engine tuner of whome he is building a NA project..

Very long story, but i'll list whats been done and the symptoms. Please, if anyone could help us out here it would be massivly appreciated as we have all now run out of ideas....

Catcams (same as i8acobra 252's)
Airram
Fuel pressure regulator
Head skimmed 0.5mm for higher compression ratio, inlet and exhaust ports enlarged and polished etc, 3 stage valve cut and re-seated.
SMT6
Full exhaust system, intake etc etc

The car was put back together and attempted to be started a week or two after the head was off for a good couple of months whilst the work was being carried out - but once he tried to start it there was no compression on 2 cylinders and the other 2 low. (60psi)

Next the piston rings were changed, and the bores re-honed.

Then the tappets/lifters were heated up and released as they had jacked open - now working fine.

New head gasket went on *Is there more than one head gasket between the RD1 and RD2?*

The symptoms are that:

The car starts, and if revs are held to 3000rpm, then it'll run - for about 20 seconds. Then, after 20 seconds, one cylinder drops, and the revs drop to 2500rpm. then 5 seconds later, another cylinder drops, and the revs drop aswell - all the way down to 1 cylinder and then it cuts out.

However, the car will then not restart for another 5-10 minutes - we presume for the pressure to dissipate properly...?

The valves have been checked, and all is well, the head has been blued - but compression is about 170,170,70,70 - tappets swapped to see if compression changes, but remains the same on all 4.

Please can anyone help? Its been a massive build, and very costly, however now we just dont have any ideas on what it could be... any help would be massivly appreciated.

Cheers
Old 03-01-2009, 12:57 PM
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Sounds like a bad fuel pump ... does he have a gauge on the FPR
Old 03-01-2009, 05:14 PM
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With that compression, I would doubt it's your fuel pump. Have you done a leakdown test? I would do that to see if it's rings. It could also be the head gasket mating surface on the block that is not flat and may have to be shaved...

I'm no expert though.
Old 03-01-2009, 05:50 PM
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if your getting compression after you replaced the rings and compression stays constant.
- its electrical

if by cylinder drops you mean misfire.
-something obviously to do with spark

if by drops you mean lose compression.
-it sounds like something isn't right with the cam placement.(check chain links make sure its right)

Is it overheating when it dies?
what does it do when you try to start after it dies?(does the engine just turn and no misfire or attempt to start?)
-if so sounds like electrical again

is it throwing any codes?
- if so post em it will help

The worst part of it is taking it back apart and checking it again and again.
- another thing to check is make sure that the bottom end is timed right with the top. this would cause a problem like this.
and if it is this your lucky its a non interference motor.

good luck keep us posted
Old 03-01-2009, 06:04 PM
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when did we start having non-interference engines?
Old 03-02-2009, 12:29 PM
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Thanks guys laugh.gif

Well looks like some other great news today! (fingers crossed)

Where the vales had been cut, lapped in and re-seated, this means that they should now sit very slightly lower in the head. After another phonecall with the UK catcams supplier it turns out he had just spoken to the tuner about this -

Apparently, where the valves should be sat lower, the end of the valve stem should be shaven down very slightly! Otherwise, they are not making full closure, and with the engine heating up and the expansion, the valves are then not fully closing, causing the loss of compression.

We should know if this is the definate cause over the next couple of days, but he said he was 99.999999999% sure this is the cause!

Thanks alot for such prompt replies guys, I'll post up the outcome as soon as we find out
Old 03-02-2009, 12:45 PM
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i assumed non-interference because i had a lifer break and it did not bend the valve however i was wrong the valve was
staying shut instead of opening i guess. interference it is. ty




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