That Airram looks great but you're going to need solid mounts to keep it off the firewall :(

It definitely is a tight fit between the firewall and Air Ram! This is the reason why I filled the front and rear mounts with 80a liquid polyurethane.

Wasn't a fan of the beta I oil pan so I went ahead and swapped it out for a beta II oil pan. Unfortunately it wasn't a straight swap so I had to do some modding to get everything to line up. During this time I finished up the oil return line.







Beta II oil pan with a 10an fitting welded in





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...907_195812.jpg





All of the holes lined up except for the two closest to the flywheel. The black circles are where I ended up drilling new holes





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...909_172932.jpg





Apparently an oil pan gasket doesn't exist for the beta II so I made a beta I fit





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...909_182300.jpg





Beta II pan finally bolted up





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...910_153715.jpg





10an push lock fitting and hose





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...910_164036.jpg





Turbo and manifold mounted along with the new oil return line





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...910_165817.jpg

Why didn't you just get a Beta II end cap instead of drilling the pan?

What do you mean by Beta II end cap?

The rear main seal cap. The difference in the caps is the reason why you had to redrill holes into the pan. The caps are like $10 used. You're going to have less seal on that end of the pan and trust me, the seal on these pans are bad enough as they are on boost.

Ah, well then. Thanks for the heads up and I'll make sure to swap that part on my built beta I block.

The shifter base setup that was in the Accent wouldn't work properly with the beta trans. Granted it would go into gears, but the side to side selector arm was on the right side whereas the XD/GK shifter has the arm on the left side. This basically meant that the gears were flipped.





Stock shifter base out of an XD Elantra





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...912_193245.jpg





Billet Pro Shop short throw shifter compared to the stocker





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...912_205503.jpg





BPS shifter installed





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...914_194254.jpg





Made a bracket to bolt to the bottom of the new shifter base while drilling some holes in it. Ended up having to widen the holes at the end of the base in order to let the shifter cables fit





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...916_153838.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...916_153857.jpg





Once the cables were in place, ran bolts down through the bottom of the base to prevent the cables from moving. Since the shifter bases are different, I was only able to use two bolts to hold the XD/GK base down.



Not the prettiest setup, but it works.





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...920_204040.jpg





The shifter cable that goes into the gray clip needed to be shortened in order to allow proper side to side gear selection





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...920_203855.jpg





Bought some Torque Solutions solid shifter bushings to eliminate any shifter slop





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...920_193808.jpg





Bushings installed in the Accent shifter cables





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...920_201223.jpg

Decided a long time ago that I wasn't going to stick with the stock ride height and wasn't a huge fan of lowering springs... So I bought a set of D2 coilovers for the Egg.







D2 coilovers for the front. Unfortunately they didn't come with camber plates so I'll need to see if any are available.





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...814_191304.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...814_191506.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...814_191453.jpg





Coilover mounted in the front





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...814_194435.jpg





I also went ahead and did the XG350 BBK, but that took some modding for it to work. I had a friend of mine fab up some hub rings as the hub bore on the Kia Spectra5 rotor was larger than the Accent's. As for the rotors themselves, I had to have the Spectra5 rotors redrilled for a 4x100 pattern. Mini Cooper rotors **will** fit, but I didn't like how the pads sat on them.



Quick Specs on the hub rings:

1. Inner Diameter - 62mm
   
2. Outer Diameter - 69mm
   
3. Width - 2mm
   

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...1_200656_1.jpg





Hub ring on the Accent's hub





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...101_200727.jpg





Kia Spectra5 rotor seated





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...101_201038.jpg





EBC Red Stuff pads and XG350 bracket and caliper fitted





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...101_201850.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...101_204820.jpg

Nice work so far!! The Beta2 pan wasn't designed for a gasket, only for silicone. That's why it has those deep groves in the mating surface. I recommend Honda bond for a leak proof seal. Hopefully the gasket doesn't tear or rip being squished into those grooves.. ;)

I always make a huge mess when using silicone and that's the main reason I opted for a gasket. And if it leaks, I'll resort to silicone again.

I've always heard not to use the gasket because they always leak, as it wasn't designed for one.

Welp, I'll let you guys know what happens. Lol

The Race Egg didn't come with the SE trim package so I was stuck with the fugly rear drum brakes... Which means I just had to convert to a disc setup. Only draw back to this is the disc setup still uses a drum style parking brake, which I'm not a huge fan of...



If you can find an 06-11 Accent or Kia Rio in the junkyard with the rear disc setup and it's in good condition, grab it!



I wasn't that lucky and went ahead and bought everything new.



Parts needed:

• Rear backing plates - 58251-1G300 and 58252-1G300
  
• Brake struts - 58264-1G300 and 58265-1G300
  
• Plate shoe guides - 58267-1G300
  
• Parking brake clips - I reused the ones from the drum setup
  
• Parking brake hardware kit - Any parts store will do
  
• Caliper brake hoses - 58737-1G300 and 58738-1G300
  
• Rotors of your choice - I'm using R1 Concepts E-line series
  
• Pads, parking brake shoes, caliper brackets and calipers - Duh
  
• Rotor plugs - 58414-38000
  

Rear backing plate straight from the motherland





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...026_194922.jpg





Shoe struts, plate guides and rotor plugs





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...111_123231.jpg





Rear backing plate assembled and ready to go on the car





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...111_181353.jpg





Brake hard line swapped out for a brake hose





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...104_150519.jpg





Rear backing plate and new wheel bearing mounted





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...112_173315.jpg





Rotor, caliper bracket, caliper and pads installed





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...116_200902.jpg

It is a "Race Egg". It hasn't hatched yet. :-)

Thanks for the support blitz... at least I didn't scrap my turbo build because the car wouldn't run right under n/a :cool:



But realistically, I've basically built this car from the ground up starting in May.. it's only December and it's mostly done except for the wiring. Not too shabby in my opinion..

Part II of the D2 coilover install..



Not sure if the rear are technically considered "coilovers" as the Accent has a torsion beam style rear axle.





D2 struts/shocks... whatever you want to call them





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...124_125444.jpg



http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...124_125945.jpg





D2 lowering springs and perches





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...124_144620.jpg





Rear components installed





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...124_153054.jpg



http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...124_153050.jpg



http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...204_183954.jpg





Final look





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...204_184052.jpg

Those D2's are beautiful. Let us know how they are once you have this beast unleashed.

Sorry, I was out getting popcorn... What did I miss? Lol

For the longest time I've had a dual core aluminum radiator in my RD tib and I wanted to have the same setup in the Egg. Did a little bit of searching around and wasn't able to find one so I ended up making a XD/GK style Mishimoto one fit..



Accent core support and radiator/condenser removed as one piece





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...926_125532.jpg





Stock radiator on the left and XD/GK Mishimoto one on the right. You might notice that the filler necks are different which caused an issue





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...926_130536.jpg





Drilled some holes at the bottom of the core support for the drain plug and feet of the new radiator. Even used the stock rubber grommets to keep an OEM look.





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...926_151427.jpg





Also had to cut a rectangle piece out of the upper core support to clear the filler neck for the radiator





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...926_152128.jpg





New radiator bolted into the core support





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...926_152452.jpg



http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...926_152358.jpg





Core support mounted on the car again





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...926_191457.jpg





Talking about fitment... this will be fun





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...926_191546.jpg

Does that mean you'll have to pull the core support or disassemble the exhaust when you change the radiator?

Now that you mention it, I never thought about that.. At best I'd probably have to remove the turbo and piping to be able to wiggle the radiator out.



Or hope I never have to change it!

Considering I have next to no room between the turbo and radiator, only logical thing to do was a push fan setup. Decided to go with dual 12" fans that both flow 2000cfm which should help keep things cool.





The fan on the driver side of the condenser actually hangs off a bit so it wouldn't sit flush. Added some foam to the one side to raise it up and help things sit level





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...004_190029.jpg





Both fans mounted in place





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...004_191216.jpg





Ended up having to cut out a portion of the crash bar in order to get the intercooler to fit properly. I'd like to go back at some point and reinforce it just to be safe





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...011_200049.jpg





Another shot of the intercooler mounted in place





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...009_202219.jpg





I didn't feel like plumbing the beta I style IAC to my charge piping, so I just tossed a filter on it and called it a day





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...019_210556.jpg





While I was at it, I went ahead and installed an oil catch can. I should look into getting a 1-way check valve as well





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...030_205207.jpg

Two points based on my having had my car for a long time: Make sure the hoses to the catch can will stand up to vacuum, and you might want to keep an eye on the foam by the radiator fan. The foam may smoosh and/or degrade with age. You'd be sure to get better cooling performance if you make a shroud/baffle that both fans sit in, to spread out their air pressure across the face of the entire radiator . . . if you have room for that.

So now that the intercooler is mounted and all that fun stuff, I had the exciting task of fabbing up the intercooler piping. The downpipe and wastegate dump tube came off of my RD so I just re-used them. Wanted to keep the bay temps as low as possible so I installed a turbo blanket, heat wrapped the downpipe and wastegate dump tube and wrapped the hotside portion of the charge pipe in heat tape.





Charge piping with BOV flange and IAT bung welded in. Also pictured is the wastegate dump tube





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...029_182228.jpg





DEI Heat wrap, DEI heat tape and a titanium turbo blanket





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...030_185627.jpg



Downpipe, wastegate dump tube and hotside piping wrapped





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...031_193615.jpg





Turbo blanket installed along with downpipe and wastegate dump tube mounted





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...031_200628.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...031_201320.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...031_201327.jpg





The hotside charge piping had very little clearance between the radiator and downpipe which is exactly why I wrapped it in heat tape





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...105_180237.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...106_195732.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...106_195815.jpg





Here are some better overall shots to give you an idea on how the piping and everything is routed





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...7_193843_1.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...7_193749_1.jpg





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...106_195628.jpg

Looks like Photobucket is having some technical difficulties at the moment so a majority of my pictures aren't visible for the time being. I'm starting to migrate my pictures over to Google Pictures so hopefully I can avoid issues like this in the near future.



Stocker, I totally didn't see your response either! As for the foam, I was already planning on checking it frequently for that very reason. As for a shroud, that won't be feasible at the moment. There's about a 1/2" clearance between the highest point on the fan motor and the rear of the intercooler.

Photobucket is demanding hundreds of dollars a year to allow you to host images for other websites from there. And they broke their own album downloader.

Updated my previous post that contained pictures as the links apparently stopped working. Seems that Google Photos doesn't work well with embedding images in forums so back to using Photobucket for the time being.

Your heat mitigation looks great! I'd also recommend a manifold heat blanket. Not just a heat shield. Made a huge difference in my under hood temps and keeps the heat where I want it.

I initially thought about wrapping the turbo manifold itself, but that would have been a huge pain. Next time I remove the manifold I might look into having it ceramic coated.

The engine bay portion of the build is pretty much done and ready to go. The main thing I'm waiting on is getting my PNP MS harness made so I can test fire the car.





Added studs to the valve cover to use a K series COP setup





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...211_191613.jpg





Valve cover swapped out and general shot of the bay. Finally got around to installing my Greddy Type FV BOV





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...207_194430.jpg





Bolted on the fenders and headlights





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...207_194356.jpg





Hood installed and closing properly. Had to massage a portion of the hood that was above the radiator cap, but other than that everything lines up and has decent clearance.





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...206_200752.jpg

Wow, your COPs look fantastic! Very curious as to what parts you used and what exactly was needed to fit them to the valve cover. I'm looking to possibly do this as a small winter project this year. When we wired in the Haltech, I ran extra wires to accommodate the extra signals.



What 4 channel igniter are you going to use out of curiosity? Where and how are you gonna mount it?

K series cops are smart coils and have the igniter built into them. That and my MS unit was built to control a cop setup so I don't need any extra hardware.

This thread has been pretty quiet here lately. That and it's been cold in Ohio so I haven't been touching the car much. We had a slight warm spell last week so I took advantage of that and added an intake for the turbo.





4" coupler, piping and K&N filter





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...120_160809.jpg





Everything assembled and in place. The engine bay is pretty tight so this was the best place I could get the filter to sit





http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/s...120_163009.jpg

Newer Toyota and Honda coils have internal ignitors, which gives them the name "smart coils". You do not need to run anything else between them and ECU. Just run individual leads to each coil making sure you also run clean power and grounds. Don't screw it up or you could burn out the ECU on startup. ;)



You mount them the same as I did. I believe Dave did the same. Drill the cover and tap with studs. Then tighten down with acorn nuts. You may need to provide additional reinforcement on the backside of the stud/cover since it's only plastic. I just dabbed some jb weld. :thumbup:

Thanks John! Totally gonna look into these this winter! Definitely having spark blow out at only 15 psi, so the tibs oem ignition system is pretty much maxed out. Dave's old engine breathes EXTREMELY well! It's a good problem to have!!

We used panel bond on the studs to hold them in place so I highly doubt they'll ever move.



I know Jon did the research on the dwell time for the toyota coils but I haven't looked to see if the k series ones are similar. As far as I know, I'm the only one using these cops at the time.

I have you tried to gap down the plugs? Gap them down slowly until you hit the sweet spot.

Interesting. So did you still drill the valve cover and then bond the studs, or did you literally bond the studs to the surface of the valve cover without drilling and tapping holes?? I'm assuming you used 3m panel bond, 2 part epoxy?



Jon- yep, they are gapped quite a bit lower then stock. I believe I'm down to 22 thousandths. I know I can go lower, but just feel I'm getting in the range of putting a band aid on top of another band aid. COPs are a great way to go, I have the standalone that can handle em ( Haltech Elite), they will allow me to run a near stock plug gap for better combustion, and, well, they look bad ass!!

We drilled holes in the valve cover and ran the studs up through it from the bottom. After that used panel bond on the stud heads on the underside of the cover to hold it in place..



Basically same thing that Jon ended up doing.