^^ hail.gif Bomm has spoken....

 

why dont you clock the cold side of the turbo and get rid of the j pipe all together?

 

it uses an internal gate, and on the oem mitsu turbos they can only be in ONE position

 

I enjoy the posts by the so called "EXPERTS" that have never even built a turbo project but bash him because of the decisions he's made. Instead of sitting here and insulting, go build your car up and let me know how it goes.

I'm not agree with the way he's approached things, but that doesn't mean bashing the guy especially coming from people with NA tibs.

As for the people providing actual help, A+



Btw, if your new to this kind of stuff, save yourself the trouble and the extra expensive and sell that manifold and turbo on ebay. Get one from socks that will fit 100% and won't utilize a turbo the size of a tennis ball fing02.gif In the end, its going to cost you more to make that work, plus it wont be as efficient as you think.

 

the manifold and turbo can be used, just mount it like a stock DSM
if your turn it 180° it will hit the water pipe and have issue with the inlet of the turbo and the transmission
the power steering won't be in the way but the alternator will need to be relocated

fuel wise,i'd stay away from the safc i'd rather go with the smt-6 and dual rail or FIC (quick note i've heard of some injector drivers failure on FIC)
the fuel pressure regulator isn't needed at all,the stock one does a good job most of the time
srt-4 boost gauge are often off scale, be sure to check accuracy before using it
i'm not a fan of sandwich plate, i prefer to feed the turbo from the block, less parts, less chance for something to go bad

just plan your stuff ahead and do your homework

 

LOL i second that on srt-4 boost gauges, all my srt buddies have aftermarket gauges.. mine just went a few weeks ago.. was showing like 30 in/hg of vac at idle.. 10in/hg with car off, and like 25 psi at WOT, LOL

needless to say, its actually 16in/hg at idle and 15psi at WOT..